What did you order or the post deliver? (Japanese N Gauge)

[Welshbloke]

KuMoYuNi 143-1 arrived from Modeltrainplus.

 

I've worked out how to modify the skirts so that they'll work with Kato tightlock couplers (so I can run it between a Kato KuMoNi or KuMoYuNi and the rest of an EMU set). Done one so far and will test it before modding the other, as it involves trimming/filing and gel superglue to attach the skirt to the Tomytec coupler pocket.

 

It turns out that the wheelsets supplied with the spare set of Kato DT21 bogies I bought a while ago are the right size for this unit, so I've installed those and will be adding some lead sheet as ballast. Saves buying a TT03 pack from which I'd only want four wheelsets and a weight, the wheelsets are blackened and as I bought the bogies to add a working coupler to a KuHa 115-1100 (which has bright wheels) I swapped the wheels over between the frames, leaving me with four axles of blackened wheelsets.

[Kabutoni]

I know it's not trains directly, but I just ordered a potentiometer and placed a bid on a big bag of capacitors (0.1F, 5.5 V). The capacitors will become electric flywheels and the potentiometer... Well, everyone should have one. Yes, the low voltage on the capacitors means no full maximum childish 12V play, as I have no intend for that and capacitors at that level (+12V with a 0.1F<) are hard to find.

[cteno4]

Toni,

 

Beware it's best to do caps at at least 50% over running voltage or more! Pop goes the capicator!

 

Jeff

[Kabutoni]

Beware it's best to do caps at at least 50% over running voltage or more! Pop goes the capicator!

Hence I'll keep the voltage not over 4V and not for a long time. 4V may even be too much (unrealistic speeds).　;) one good reason to have bought that potentiometer as well.

 

Inspiration from here by the way:　https://youtu.be/GBBcFTKVaaE

[Welshbloke]

A couple of photos of the Tomytec KuMoYuNi, after some mods to use it as a trailer:

 

 

The lack of lighting really isn't a problem here, as it'll always run coupled between another luggage/parcels van and an EMU set. In this case it's a Kato KuMoYuNi 74 and a 165 Series set.

 

 

I modified the front skirts by cutting the original clips off, filing a notch (to bring them up slightly) and attaching them to a pair of spare Tomytec coupler mounts with gel-type superglue. At the same time I fitted Kato tightlock couplers in place of the Rapidos. Wheels were spare Kato ones as listed above, and I used some washers of the right diameter and thickness as ballast weights (just laid them on the floor under the interior, which holds them in place).

[JR 500系]

My parcel arrived yesterday with my bulk track orders together with some other items.

 

Giving FULL credit to Nariichi san at MTP who went through the trouble going through my extensive and long (and confusing) list of tracks to get, and getting all of them 100% correct! Kudos and thank you very much!

 

It is time to finally start building AFTER months and months of planning (and lazing around)

[Dave1960]

I've just received the first of 4 parcels making their way from H.S. This one contained the Tomix Kansai Line Kiha 120 (92173)I got hold of in the last sale. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it comes with factory fitted lights, I like this sort of bonus.

 

Hopefully I should get the remaining parcels before Christmas.

 

Dave

[Martijn Meerts]

It came! My first full-metal kit!

 

 

And boy...

 

 

This is...

 

 

Intimidatingly small.

 

 

At least you can read in the instructions, or get someone to read them for you.. I have to go by the pictures alone =)

[Kabutoni]

At least you can read in the instructions, or get someone to read them for you.. I have to go by the pictures alone =)

 

Actually, there isn't much to read, since the big slab of text next to the instructions are more general safety and tips, rather than specific for that one model (in this case). The pictures are enough to guide you through the process.

[Martijn Meerts]

Hmm.. The steam locomotive I'm working on has a sheet of metal that I just can't get solder to stick on.. I wonder if there's mention in the documentation about that, or maybe it says parts from that sheet need to be glued rather than soldered.. 

 

But yeah, other than in those situations, the pictures are good enough really :)

[Kabutoni]

Hmm.. The steam locomotive I'm working on has a sheet of metal that I just can't get solder to stick on.. I wonder if there's mention in the documentation about that, or maybe it says parts from that sheet need to be glued rather than soldered.. 

 

But yeah, other than in those situations, the pictures are good enough really :)

 

Can you post a photo of the instructions (maybe worth a new topic)? It could be that it needs some flux or cleaning.

[keiichi77]

My package from John arrived today, the Kato HO Koki cars have nicer detail then the Tomix cars, I am going to need help resisting the urge to dive deeper into HO scale Japanese trains.  ;)

 

 

Jason

 

[enodenlover]

Two packages arrived this week, one from Plaza Japan and the other from Hobby Search. PJ sent me Modemo's NT69 Randen tram in the standard tan and green scheme. And from HS came my first Micro Ace train, the just released Izuhakone series 1100 three car set in red and tan. Also from HS: the Green Max four story office building #2132, a Casco railroad crossing sign sheet, a set of four DioTown Showa-era shop facades and a Studio Mid coin parking lot kit. I'm still awaiting four other packages that hopefully will get here before Christmas.

[marknewton]

I am going to need help resisting the urge to dive deeper into HO scale Japanese trains.  ;)

Good luck with that. Needless to say, I can't help you! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

[Kabutoni]

A bag of candy just arrived. 200 capacitors (5.5V, 0.1F). All ready to be consumed, and experimented with, by trains.

 

They are a bit too wide for N Narrow bodies, but fit sideways with some bending of the legs. I'm looking forward to the results Monday (weekend is family time).

Edited December 12, 2015 by Toni Babelony

[NXCALE]

One Track Layout B which brought some headaches as this parcel appeared in the system as temporary unavailable.

At the end of the day, it turned out that the parcel was delivered to my previous post address (I moved out)…

Edited December 12, 2015 by nxcale

[cteno4]

Toni,

 

Might look at the tantalum brick caps. They are the densist you can get for capacity and their brick shape lends themselves to fitting in tight spaces, you can gang up a bunch of them in parallel to get higher capacitance. Not as cheap as the regular electrolytic caps, but probably better quality over all as some electrolytic caps can be pretty cheaply made.

 

Jeff

[kvp]

They are also polarity free, which means they won't short out with reversed polarity like elcos, so you can actually reverse without blowing anything up. Another (cheaper) variant is foil caps. Actually anything that works with AC will be safe for analog DC, but be sure to use smooth analog or chopped pwm (on-disconnected) controllers only as on-off pwm controllers actually drain the caps at each cycle and actively brake the motor on stop.

 

ps: If you use elcos, you might want to add a diode before the buffer cap which makes sure the motor can only go forward and this keeps the caps charged too, while protecting them from reversed polarity. It's only usable though on a continous loop layout as you can't reverse.

[Kabutoni]

Might look at the tantalum brick caps.

I've been on the lookout for them, but they weren't on auction the last few weeks. At least not the correct ones I was looking for.

 

If I find a bunch of high-capacity ones with a decent voltage for cheap, I'll grab them. For now I have about 200 to play with. I should be able to fit at least one per motor car. Should be enough with a 0.1F capacity.

 

Polarity shouldn't matter IIRC with capacitors in general, since they just charge and release that charge in any direction possible.

My capacitors do have polarity, so it will only work running in one direction. The other direction will lead to explosions. 

Edited December 13, 2015 by Toni Babelony

[Kabutoni]

Ordered some diodes to match the capacitors and act as a safeguard when running backwards. There should be enough room to fit one in between the capacitors. I'll continue posting about this in this old thread: http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/3994-making-trains-run-smooth-with-capacitors-electronic-flywheel/

 

Also, a friend went to the Sōtetsu event of last weekend and got two N7000 types in the new livery for me. I'll have to wait until next month to be able to buy them off of him.

[Martijn Meerts]

Can you post a photo of the instructions (maybe worth a new topic)? It could be that it needs some flux or cleaning.

 

I'll try and remember to do that ;)

 

Of course, World Kougei recommends always using flux, but I've found that it's really not necessary most of the time. I've wanted to try soldering the part in question using flux, but never got around to it. 

[TheNicofabi]

Well... i got my first big Package from Japan wich i'd wanna post more then just my 3 motors i got last time...

[Pauljag900]

Top man,can t beat that feeling when a parcel arrives,even tho you know what it si! Ha ha

[JR 500系]

Well... i got my first big Package from Japan wich i'd wanna post more then just my 3 motors i got last time...

 

Nice ~ The first parcel with trains is always the one you will remember... I still remembered mine with the Tomix 321 series ~  :)  

 

I see another has gotten the Keihan K-On bug!  :)

[miyakoji]

Nice haul, I especially like the magazine and KUMOHA12.