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Really fun ist! Thanks jeff

The gator board one by trackside scenery looks good in USA but stupidly high shipping to the uk makes it too expensive also think only single track

Part 4: As a last part of this process I put some non-working lights to the bridge, inserted the huge advertisements and added an E235 car to present some photos. I know it is missing lots of street furnitures, maybe in the future I will add these (first I have to buy them...). The end. Thanks for watching. 😁

Part 3: Behind the subway exit on the other side of the rail, under the bridge, I started to build a parking lot with signs for it. Although I intended the streets to be pedestrian streets without car traffic, I glued some strips of road from a self-adhesive roll. I didn’t expect the strip to shrink a bit, so the result became worst than I expected as I learned it a few days later. I also grabbed some chalk dust to do the dirt on the road surface, making the whole thing a little more lifelike. Here came the moment for me to take out all of my people and car collection from the last

Part 2: I basically wanted to use Tomytec’s factory set as a bridge, but I soon had to realize that it wasn’t designed for a 210mm module depth, so I had to remanufacture the road surface itself. The basis of this was, of course, a styrene sheet, cut to size and painted with road paint, glued a self-adhesive road strip in the middle, and the whole bridge got some dirt. The result is far from the work of the pros, but looks okay for me and better than left is in original condition. I also struggled with the buildings a bit, trying different weathering techniques, then realized the v

As Coromant became active in this forum I present you some pictures about my latest T-trak modul. I am pretty sure that I have already shown you some pictures from it, but at least it will be all of them in one place. Part 1: The size of the module following the smallest T-trak standard module so 308 * 210 mm. I wanted to show an imagined Japanese metropolitan theme with taller buildings and a bridge across the rails so a little bit different from the modules I have built so far. You can already see the big picture on picture nr2, obviously at the very beginning I just put the

Your truck scales are influencing your train scales there jr! jeff

I am thinking of a double track helix with a small safety wall inside and out (removable of course). We'll see. Thanks for the ideas.

This matches my train spotting observations in 2018. I was in Nagoya in September and October and started noticing the DF200-200s pulling the Takis. I do not recall seeing any during my visit in 2017 (Oct - Dec). - - - Paul

I have a thing for Cabooses or Cabeese. Just got these little guys but actually kinda big compared to my other trains as these are O Scale. Nice models and very detailed and supposedly it has full interior and figures but you can’t see inside because the windows have some nice metal etched screens. 😁

Haven’t had much space or time to do anything substantial for a few weeks as I have recently moved. I am continuing the short touch up jobs while the layout space negotiations continue. This weekend, had a bit of time in the JR Kyushu paint shop adding some detailing to my 415. The jumper plugs are colour coded and the corresponding sockets are reflected for quick connection, not that i ever see two 415s on either the Kagoshima line or the Nippo line. I also noticed the sockets under the jumper holder were also painted so I added this to my model. The pantograph also got the common

Hey Kiran. The whole set should take kato part 11-702 knuckler coupler which fits into rapido coupler slots. If you want to have simulated power and control hoses between the coach cars you can use kato part 11-721. Both are identical other than the second one has the simulated passenger car hoses on it. I often buy a bunch of each and keep them on hand, they fit so many trains you'll certainly use them eventually! Edit: if you can share photos of the underside of the coach and baggage cars we can tell you for sure, Kamome brings up a good point there are two styles of coupler

If car wagons are the same as the Su Yu 44 mail van bogies, like this picture, you could use the 11-702 like i’ve used on mine. Alternatively you could use the 11-721 which also have air hoses. The 20 series coaches i have (Sakura 10-1141/42) use a different mount so you’d need the 11-722 if they’re the same as the picture.Neither are Assy parts, but accessory parts so should be readily available

Is this the end for the 185s then? Or are they getting sent to other lines.

Can someone please help me get the assy parts numbers for the Kato knuckle style couplers for the Kyushu car train 10-1548? I am trying to take out the arnold rapido couplers and use the knuckle couplers. I also want to have spares of the couplers used beteween the cars. Kato didn't seem to have produced a part list for this model.. Thanks in advance for the help.

Has anyone imported video games into the US? Is there any duty on something like that? I see an ebay vendor is listing this Densha de Go along with the Eizan edition of Rosen Tabi in a bundle for 180 USD plus shipping. A lot of money but I see the appeal 🙂

Wow! Really impressive work as usual Coromant. I really need to bookmark this thread and steal browse for ideas whenever I feel burned out on my own modeling.

The LEDs are all in except for the ones on the roof of the main walkway. I also placed magnets on the platforms and puttied up the extra holes in the platforms. I still have to add the detail pieces such as the platform signs and signal lights. After that I'll be ready to tackle the actual scratch-build part of the assembly.

Yes very interesting! Tired to find more on the bus/tram battles and mafia references but no Google fu for details... jeff

Excellent write up! Thank you for sharing! The trees look realistic and the folliage looks natural! Nothing like a little sprite of green in the dense urban jungle!

What is your module standard? Are you doing modular or sectional? Exact scale/gauge (it gets so confusing at times and some call it one thing and some another)? Period? Area? Scenes? Presenting some of this I’m a little depth will help gather attention better. jeff

Could even be as simple as cut Velcro loop strip the thickness of your platform material and glue to the edge. Then the 3/4” or 1” hook piece could be attached to make a guardrail. The hook side is usually pretty stiff and should be plenty of stopping for a simple derailment. Flexible magnet strip could also do the same. could be uber fancy and just thermoform curved panels of clear acrylic the height of the whole helix that fit between the risers to Velcro or magnet in place. Whole helix under glass! since the room in the center is really not an issue can just make it fa

James, im of the same ilk, I don’t mind paying the appropriate tax, it’s fees that get really exorbitant that would piss me off. Especially because it can now be done all electronically and cost next to nothing to provide in bulk and just pay online so no collection is needed at the door. If the courier service is having to deal with all the customs paperwork I can see a small fee, but even $5 seems exorbitant and a gouge just cause they gotcha... jeff

Canada customs will charge the appropriate sales tax, plus a handling fee of something like $9.95 for the privelage. If your package comes through Canada Post, they hold your package at the post office and you pay those fees when you go pick it up. As @bill937ca says, customs seems to let most of our model train orders through without a second thought and there's usually no charge. (I think anything under $20 us in value is also expect from tax when importing, but not a lot of things I order overseas are coming in that low.) I assume they have finite staff/resources and elect to focus on item

Just spit-balling, you could cut inch wide strips of thermoplastic material and form them to the outside radius of the helix. You could then fix dowels to them so you can easily lift them out when you need access. I love using dowels for this kind of thing. They're sturdy, and easy to use, and if you put them on the inside you won't see them.