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Hi folks! 3 weeks ago I realized one of my dreams with my longtime partner. Trainsetter Ulli Liedtke & Natascha Drews GbR in Germany is now at the model train market. We will produce selected products for the N (1: 150 & 1: 160) and Z (1: 220) gauge in the future. Our first product, which we would like to introduce to you, is available soon in July 2019! The starter set "Hänschen" contains a catenary for the track system Kato Unitrack and Tomix Finetrack in gauge N. 2 pieces long wires for 280mm and 4 pieces short wires for 140mm mast spacing in 0.25mm stainless steel. Of course, the wires are thus suitable for curves, which can be tailored to suit his needs. "Hänschen" is only suitable for the indicated overhead line operation, which means that the pantograph must not touch the wire. Unfortunately we are not ready yet with a website! We are happy to answer your questions via trainsetter-gbr (at) gmx.net or on Facebook and Twitter. Whether in English or German, we will answer your questions. For mid-July, distribution via dealers is planned. Yours sincerely Ulli Liedtke Trainsetter Ulli Liedtke & Natascha Drews GbR email: trainsetter-gbr ( at ) gmx.net Flyer 2019.pdf

I've been working on the Tomix 91016/91017 rail yard set and wanted to add railings to the washing track platform. Packages of the Tomix 3080 sidewalls would have set me back roughly $50 on railings alone so I decided to model something closely to what would be included in the set. They are not each copies of these parts since I never bought a a package but they do adhere to the dimensions required to attach to the cleaning platforms. I've uploaded a STL to Google Drive here that's free for anyone to download and print for personal use. You can see how it printed and assembled in the attached pics:

I want to buy the Kato V13 and I was wondering if I could use the Tomix controller due to its double control capabilities. Is this possible and will I need an adapter if so which one?

Hello, I’m getting ready to convert my only other Tomix train to DCC, a single KiHa 40. Opening it up, the LEDs are different from what was inside the 700 Series Shinkansen. My problem is that I don’t know which end is positive. Both the LEDs and the board are marked with a small line, visible in the photo below. I don’t know if that’s supposed to be a “-“, to indicate the negative side, or just simply a visual aid for assembly at the factory. Anyone else have experience with these? I could also use suggestions for wiring and board modification. I’ll be installing a Digitrax DZ126T.

I big mouthed in a jp youtuber comment that I could do the endless oval they did in a smaller area with the use of 2 Tomix CA-S and 4 C541-15s. Now while one of my CA-S sets is set up like a CC set (I added on the additional bridge beams), things were on hold till I picked up the Tomix packs 3245 and 3235, 8 p10 pillars and 4 long beams, with them a quick test resumed the hold as I'm now waiting on more items 140mm lengths of plain viaducts and packs of C541-15 - my version of a 10mm socket, they walk. I did a quick anyrail mockup and hit another obstacle my planned grades end up crossing over the lower track at a height where I suspect the suspended track will interfere with any rollingstock at ground level. I'm thinking I either need to change design from the squashed Tomix oval to a true oval, or there's a combination of straights that will make this idea work.

Hi folks, I've spent about 4 months building a 3 level layout for my British OO, Japanese N and Lego and it's finally finished*. Hope you like the video. https://youtu.be/Nr3axLF001Q Feel like I have an encyclopedic knowledge of how to build a layout in a shed now, from insulation to wiring etc to the removeable bridge for the door, so if anyone has any questions happy to advise. Bridge has copper strips underneath to keep the connection, and is lifted up to leave the room, with a section of the scenery swinging open. Need to step over the Japanese one to leave which is a bit tricky but there's a handlebar on the outside to help. None of it is digital - Gaugemaster and Kato controllers respectively but with the Hornby HMDC app to control the two branch lines. Lego is battery powered, remote control. Shed is well insulated, have a heater and a dehumidifier in there. Layout is 6m x 2.5m so plenty of space for nice long platforms! *Lots of little details to add to the British one from signals to passenger bridges to station names etc but the laborious work is finally over, now on to the fun stuff: running trains and adding little details. Going to landscape the temple area with static grass, paths and lakes too.

I know that both Kato & Tomix produce E5 and H5 Series models, but I am wandering about everyone's experience with them and what are the differences other than the obvious coupling and diaphragm systems? Most of my Shinkansen are currently by Kato: 100 Series Grand Hikari, E2 Asama, E2-1000 Hayate, E3-0 Komachi, E3-1000 Tsubabsa & E4 Max. As you can tell I have concentrated on JR East Shinkansen. I have one Tomix 200 Series H unit Super Yamabiko, I am a bit partial to the late 80's shark nose sets, which is why i also have the full 16 car set of the Kato 100 Series Grand Hikari! And When I get around to expanding my fleet with an E1, it's gonna have to be the Tomix model, since the Kato model has been out of production since before I moved to China.... But I am not sure what to do when/if I decide to get E5 and H5 sets. I feel that the diaphragm on the Tomix models looks much better and closer to the full width diaphragms on the real trains. And I know from my experience with my Super Yamabiko that the Tomix conductive coupling system is reliable. Would I be right in guessing that the Tomix TN couplers hidden in the noses are not compatible with Kato's Shibata couplers? And if I ever choose to DCC my Shinkansen, how easy is it to install chips on a Tomix Shinkansen? At least the conductive coupling system should mean that the whole train can be fitted with a single multi-function decoder, right? Looking forward to hearing people's experiences, and comments on performance and maintenance would be appreciated too! Ewan

Last year I completed this steam depot: It was mainly from parts supplied through a magazine subscription. I removed the original double-loop concept so I could run trains from it onto my main layout and have a second line onto the turntable. As the cat has always shown a keen interest, I have at long last found enough pieces of wood to build a box over it to protect it. A front flap gives access to the trains. A couple of 'port-holes' in the flap allows me to view it without having to open it each time. ... the cat is not happy!

Hi Everyone! It's been a while since I've posted anything, 2020 was not a very good year.... What with Covid, moving house & looking for a new job, I didn't do much with my trains.... Anyway, for my questions... Last Chinese New Year, in Tokyo, I bought 2 of the TOMIX 3 car JRF container train packs: number 92417 EF510-0 with 2 KoKi 50000s & number 92491 EF210-100 with 2 KoKi 107s. These are my first TOMIX locos that will be running as normal trains, so I am planning to replace the Arnold Rapido couplers with knuckle couplers. First question is: Will TOMIX TN knuckle couplers couple with Kato knuckle couplers (as in the knuckles included with Kato locos) and also the Kato Coupler N (11-702 and 11-707)? I usually replace the Rapidos on freight stock with Kato Coupler Ns. The models themselves did not come with any option parts list, but according to the 2020 TOMIX Catalogue, in the listings for the 3-car EF510 Cassiopeia base set, the EF510 takes replacement JC52 knuckle couplers. I have taken both of the locos apart to check the couplers, and both them have the same coupler housing sub-assemblies.I also have a TOMIX ED61 in the Track Cleaning Car Set, it has the same coupler mounting assembly, but its' option parts list has a different TN coupler replacement listed. So the second question is: Is JC52 the correct part number for TN couplers for EF210 and EF510? And lastly, a note on coupler replacements for other TOMIX models.... A couple of years ago I was asking here on the forum if anyone had tried replacing the TOMIX Tobu Spacia Rapidos with Kato Couplers. I can report that I finally managed to get the Rapidos out of the coupler pockets and replaced them with Kato's grey jumper fitted Shibata type, part 11-704. The Tobu Spacia really does look much better with these than with the Rapidos it came with! Happy Chinese New Year everyone! Ewan

Hey all! So with some difficulty, I managed to get a small Tomix business tower. I have a bunch of card kits on the way which I'm looking forward to assembling. Sadly, the tower had absolutely no interior at all! So I decided to at least add some floors. They're held in place with some blu-tak for now until I go back and add lighting or a more full interior. What's everyone else done lately? Michael

Hi Long story short: I need H0m wheelsets with axle as long as regular H0. The model is Tomix TaKi1000 tanker (product code HO-727/728/729), wheel diameter is 10mm, measured with calliper on rolling surface. No idea where should I look for, as this type of part is highly unusual - regular H0m wheelsets are the same as in TT, so they have too short axle.

Hi everyone! So I'm currently living in Shenzhen, China for 2 years while I teach music at an international school. During our first October holiday, we got to visit Tokyo, Japan, where I fell in love with the vast and efficient system of trains and the general politeness of the people we met. I've been lucky enough to live in several countries in my life, but Japan strikes me as a shining example of what other places could achieve if they fully committed to public rail transport. So, I got some trains from the wonderful Kato store, as well as a pair of second hand Shinkansen (100 and 300) from Popondetta Akihabara, and enough track for a simple double loop with stations. After a couple of weekend trips to Hong Kong, I built up enough track for a much larger double loop with some buildings and sidings. Then I began building a viaduct system to run the Shinkansen. I based my system on the central Tokyo station, and the next commuter stop on the Yamanote line, Shimbashi. That's my simple 4 track commuter station across the street from a row of large skyscrapers (still collecting those) and behind that, the Shinkansen viaducts. That's the main diorama of the layout, and everything else is mostly for operation. I enjoy a mix of scenery and passenger operation, especially with a variety of different types of trains with different roles, Commuter, Limited Express, and long distance Shinkansen. Here's a basic rundown of my layout plan, and eventual additions. The layout is basically complete at this point, and what I'm going to add are staging tracks and a connecting ramp between the upper and lower lines which will make the operation more fun. I began by thinking about the kind of operation I most enjoyed, with commuter trains making regular stops and shuffling back and forth, and ducking away to let faster express trains by. Once I had that idea down, I started designing the scene I wanted. I particularly liked the spot in Tokyo, the Maranouchi skyline seen from the imperial gardens where the trains are running in between the skyscrapers. The main diorama is loosely based on that. Tokyo station at the moment is represented by a single-level 4-track terminus, and a lovely old Faller station kit built by my father in the late 1980s! I thought it a decent stand-in for the gorgeous red-brick Maranouchi station building. My apartment has a spare bedroom which we mostly don't use - so it was perfect as a spot for a return loop. The Shinkansen line is essentially a single track loop folded into a dumbell shape with a return loop at each end. I've tried to keep the 'driving on the left' system as far as possible - so familiar to me from designing OO British layouts for so long. Since I'm focusing on Tokyo amd Shimbashi, I'm focusing on the JR West Shinkansen, which have always been my favorite - the 100, 300, 500, and 700 series. I finally got an E7 though. The blue and gold is so pretty, and since the line to Kanazawa will eventually link up with Osaka, I consider it an honorary West Shinkansen, even though it leaves Tokyo via Omiya. The way I run this layout at present, trains leave Tokyo station and cross to the inner track. Eventually they terminate and cross back to the outer track in the other direction, and terminate back at Tokyo. More details and structures to come! I had a frustrating period of trying to do a city pavement base for my Maranouchi scene with thick card - which bent up and wouldn't lie flat, even with metal rulers glued to it. In the end I gave up and went with thin card which sits flat much better. I'll keep updating it as I can! I have an order of track and structures on the way which will spruce up the Tokyo Station a little. Also coming are the two wonderful Odakyu Romancecars - 7000 and 10000 series, both in wine red color. Favorites of mine from Microsoft Train Simulator back in the day! All best! Keep 'em rolling, train fans! Michael

Hello everyone! I‘ve recently bought a full Tomix Twilight Express 92240/41/42 set on YAJ and since all my other rolling stock is from Kato and equipped with their 11-702 knuckle couplers I got a question regarding the Twilight Express‘ end car. It appears that this car is equipped with a dummy coupler and thus cannot easily be equipped with different couplers. Does anyone know if this is correct and if there is a cheap/easy fix for this issue as my model train club has a head-station possible to be used in their layout and it‘d be pretty odd to have "Hand of God" turn the whole train around because of a dummy coupler on one end of it. I already sorted out converting the loco to Kato couplers but would also like to know if the gap between cars gets too small once they‘re equipped with knuckle couplers as it seems to me that they‘re already reasonably close to each other. Thank you in advance for reading and I hope somebody could help me. Kind Regards from Germany, Jan

I've been looking into purchasing Tomix's Finetrack HA+HB+HC patterns build the combo patten they show on their site. I've found it incredibly hard to find the actual sets anywhere though. All the online sites seem to be sold out of them, and Yodobashi doesn't have any listed in stock online. I'll be in Japan in a month and I was hoping to snatch up all three while I was there. Maybe I don't know enough about Tomix's release schedule but is it normal for newer sets like this to be completely out of stock? Does anyone know of some secret places get these around there? https://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/report/n/images/nj_225go/layout_l.jpg https://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/report/n/nj_225.htm

Hi all - New to the Japanese-outline N scale, but loving the wealth of information and enthusiasm found here! I'm detailing various Tomix Shinkansen sets, some bought second hand in Akihabara - my 700 has these large gaps where I'm guessing the destination blinds/seating signs go - what do most modelers do to apply some detail here? My Kato 500 series came with some small stickers which fit over the glazing - are there some superdetailing parts I can get which show the destination? Also, my older 100 & 300 Tomix sets have blank spaces where the destination boards should be - does anyone know where I can find decals or stickers for those? Cheers, Michael

I think the brand new replacement motor for my DF200 might be bad already... I purchased it because the locomotive was jerking and stalling randomly on clean track that all my other locomotives were having no trouble at all on, and I had ruled out all other possible causes (dirty wheels/contacts, mechanical binding, etc…) Anyways, I ordered the motor from Hobbysearch, and after installation, the locomotive ran like new…for about 2 minutes, then it picked up the same problems where the old motor had left them off…and then proceeded to make them worse. So, thinking I had just put a new motor in for no reason, I checked and double checked everything else again: Trucks had no binding (in fact, they’re probably the smoothest rolling ones I’ve ever seen. I should also note I replaced the axles that had traction tires with new tire-less ones for better electrical pickup. I have no need for them because I don’t pull long trains, or have any gradients on my small layout) Worm gears and drive shafts seem to be in perfect shape as well. Then I got an idea from another problem. A few days before, I was running my Tomix EF66 and noticed it was stalling for a split second whenever it went over my single crossover. So I ran it over very slow, and it stalled completely. Not only that, but the tail lights on the last car wouldn’t light up either. What was happening, was this: http://my-miniature-worlds.blogspot.com/2015/04/kato-turnout-4-short-circuit.html So basically the wheel contacting the two rails at once was shorting out the whole track, causing even the rear lights to stay out. This got me thinking, if something in the DF200 is shorting out, then other things on the track will stall or dim as well. So, to check for this, I removed the motor, driveshafts, and worm gears so the unit would be a free rolling dummy with working headlights, hitched it up to one of my DE10’s, and towed it around every inch of my layout multiple times to see if the lights would flicker or dim. And they flickerlessly burned bright over every millimeter of it, even over the #4 crossovers, so no problems there. Then, I put the motor back into it, but not the driveshafts or worm gears, so it was still a free rolling dummy, and then pulled it around the layout with the same DE10. But this time, there was a problem. Not only did the DF200’s motor hesitate and stall, but when it did, the DE10’s would as well, just as the tail lights did with my EF66 on the crossover. So it would seem that something in the motor is shorting out. So, I got a bad motor, right? Has this happened to anyone else? I mean, I know it sounds improbable that the new part would be bad as well, but then again, the last time I tried to replace the alternator in my car, I had to buy 3 or 4 before I got a proper working one. Is there something in these motors that can internally short out? I found a motor on plazajapan for $13, but wanted to get some second opinions before ordering…again, lol. So any ideas or advise would be helpful, thanks!

I have purchased the Tomix E259 using the 0508 light board and recently noticed that both the red and white LED are on at the same time in the power car. I had recently opened it up to see about the feasibility of converting it to DCC and I'm not sure if it's something I managed to do in the process. I'm using a Tomix power pack and the train runs perfectly fine. I've tried a couple of different options even going as far as testing the board directly. Everything works as expected until it's connected to the motor. Even placing it on with the motor springs removed worked. Has any one experienced this? Are there any obvious solutions I'm missing?

Hi, I'm new to this forum (live in the UK). I use Tomix wide tram track on a town layout I'm building and have just invested in a pair of Tomix controllers & two TCS units to automate the double track tram looped circuits to include a couple of tram stops on each circuit. I also have 4 of the short sensor track pieces. However, the instructions are all in Japanese and I'm having a devil of a job sorting out how to do the wiring to achieve this. Anyone got any tips or links that might help me?

Tomix spacing is 37mm; Peco setrack is 35mm; Kato is 33mm; and Peco 55 is 26mm. Now I know that Tomix and Peco setrack are fine for 11inch (280mm) and 12.5 inch(315mm) curves in parallel for long coaches not to hit each other, and, I know that Peco 55 spacing is probably a little narrow. But what about Kato? I am looking at variation pack V14. I have read that the spacing is a little tight for longer rolling stock to pass each other. Does anyone know if this is 'internet expert logic' or reality? In my mind, and shifting peco track a couple of millimeters in, it seems to be fine, but if anyone knows say if trains with BR mk4 or long continental coaches can pass each other with those radii and 33 track spacing, then I can probably start investing in Kato which is a lot easier to get hold of here in the UK

Hello All, Having a break from the kiha 40 build, I looked at dcc'ing a kato dd51. I had not removed the body from the dd51, just looked up on the net about dcc for the dd51 and from what I saw, the loco was not dcc ready, but some had used the circuit board for the ef65 to dcc the dd51. So, I ordered a circuit board. A bit later I got round to taking the body of the dd51 and found that it was already fitted with the same circuit board as an ef65, complete with 8 pin socket! With the ordered circuit board already in the post, I got round to thinking what else I could use it for. I have a number of Tomix ho models, non of which are dcc ready. Some time ago I got a mint second hand ef81, and with it being a similar shape to the ef65, I thought that swapping the Tomix circuit board for the Kato one should be possible, and am pleased to report it is. The original board is easy to remove, as nothing is soldered to it. Unplug the wires, remove the clips for the motor connectors (keep the clips), and then unclip the board from the chassis. Next, remove the clips on the chassis that are for holding the original board in place, as the Kato board will sit on top of the plastic dividers each side of the motor. The motor terminals attach to the Kato board by the number 15 on the cutting mat, place the contacts on the underside of the board and use the clips from the original board to secure the contacts in place. The wires from the pickups attached to where number 16 is on the mat. Also, please note that on the left hand side of the motor, you need to remove some of the plastic in the middle of the divider, this is to allow clearance for the gold coloured component on the left side of the Kato board. Position the board with the underside of the dcc socket (right hand side on board) on the flywheel side of divider. It's tight, but the socket will be clear of the flywheel.

The Tomix Chi 1 (with pipe or logs) appears to have the same chassis as the Tomix Tamu 500 and the Komu1 container wagon. Does the chassis moulding come from another Tomix wagon? If so which wagon and is that wagon generally to scale? Depending on the answer either the Chi or the Komu 1 might be able to be modified to make an accurate model.

Hi guys! Can't wait anymore! Even when I have other projects on the workbench, can't stop thinking on the next layout. So, I've been playing with scarm and track I have available and came up with a little desing based on a layout seen on the net some time ago in the dissapeared blog of Mr. Hidetaka Ishijima (great layouts!). My problem comes withe height gradient to meet the right height on the left curve. Any ideas on this? I don't have yet defined the design. First design: Second, reduced size, but I think I'll go back to the original size: And where I am now: started the elevation earlier but still too much, Was thinking on making an exit to the station on the right: Well, that's all for now. Any super suggestions welcomed! :) :) Martin

I bought 4m of tatami (Japanese paper-based Ginpaku). Wrapped it around a EPS foam board core. Put a layout on one side. Leave the tatami as decoration on the other side. See the following 2 min video for a summary of what I did to avoid looking like a train geek... In September when I'm back visiting Kyoto again, it'll be time for some portable structures...

Really loving the Tomix EVA 500 Shinkansen. I had some issues with my layout that I had to address to get it to run properly - track and station items, but I dialed them in and...SO COOL! hehehehe Anyone else have the Tomix AND KATO versions? I was just curious about which looked and ran better.

i recently picked up 1/2 of a TOMIX 92139 JR Electrical Inspection Cars Series 193 2-car set; the training(?) car (the one with 2 pantographs). Though it's not prototypical, I want to use it for an express locomotive for a 2 or 3 car container consist. The piece came with both the track cleaning truck and the regular truck. my 1st problem was I could not get it to move on the track as the wheels had no traction (motor works). I checked the orientation of both installed trucks and they are turning the same direction. I think I finally fixed that problem by adding traction tires. At least it moves now. But, it will only move in 1 direction, backward. even if using the direction toggle on the power pack. it only moves backward with the direction switch in either position. Is this trailing chassis only set up to move in reverse (relative to the lead chassis)? I have not taken the motor case apart yet to check the drive train.