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H0e forest railways with H0 branch line


Martijn Meerts

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Madsing
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14 hours ago, Martijn Meerts said:

It’s superb! Must be a good feeling to have your own, unique train!

By the way, did you use CA glue, or is there any special, glue for brass or steel?

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Martijn Meerts
9 minutes ago, Madsing said:

It’s superb! Must be a good feeling to have your own, unique train!

By the way, did you use CA glue, or is there any special, glue for brass or steel?

 

Yeah, it's definitely a good feeling finally seeing this come together. There's still a lot to do, and then I have to paint it all of course, but just seeing the loco with a few cars behind it in this state does make me more confident that I can actually finish these things.

 

All the brass, nickel silver and stainless steel is soldered whenever doable. Some parts will likely be glued on in the end, such as the detail bits in the cab. Some of those are white metal which can be difficult to solder depending on the circumstances. For those I'll probably use epoxy for the bigger parts, and CA for really small details. The plastic kits use regular plastic cement.

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Martijn Meerts

Not much progress again on the C55. I'm having trouble getting all the plumbing on the sides of the boiler installed in a decent way, and that combined with the hobby room (the attic) getting a bit too warm to comfortably work on stuff there, means I've not really tried continueing.

 

However, I did move a bunch / most of the kit building tools down from the attic and onto my desk, where it's at least a bit cooler, and where I have an AC unit if it gets really warm. A lot of the C55 parts are laid out on the workbench in the hobby room, and I didn't want to take all of those small bits and pieces down, so instead I'm going to work on the Kiwa90 the coming weeks / months. Being a diesel, it's considerably easier than the steam loco's I have, so the aim is to get the Kiwa90 up and running so I can at least run a train now and then.

 

The major issue (apart from painting) will be figuring out the lighting of the thing. While it does have lamps and clear lenses etc, it doesn't actually come with any lighting whatsoever. I'll have to make some custom bits and pieces to hold some LEDs.

 

I'll try to document this build a bit better than what I've done before, also showing in which order I bend / solder things. I've only just started on it yesterday evening, so there's nothing to show just yet.

 

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Martijn Meerts

Many images incoming 🙂

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-001-parts.jpg

 

All the parts for the Kiwa 90 kit. While this looks like a lot of parts, with some looking rather complex, this thing is actually relative straight forwards compared to a steam locomotive kit. Also, while this is a IMON kit, I'm about 99.99% certain it was actually made by World Kougei, and I have a good amount of experience reading World Kougei building instructions.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-002-first-frame-parts.jpg

 

The first 2 parts for the frame kit from the parts sheet. These are nickel silver and are real easy to solder.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-003-first-bends.jpg

 

First bits to fold are straight forward 90 degree folds. The bit on the front has some additional tabs which were folded inwards by 180 degrees.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-004-soldered-bend.jpg

 

Adding a bit of solder to strengthen things a bit, so the folded bits remain folded.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-005-soldered-bend.jpg

 

And some solder on the other folded bit. This also show the 2 small tabs mentioned above.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-006-more-bends.jpg

 

Folding the next bit.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-007-soldered-flat-parts.jpg

 

Since these are flat parts you're soldering together, there's several holes on the inner part. You just fill the hole with some solder and make sure it's nice and hot so the solder spreads between the 2 parts.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-008-even-more-bends.jpg

 

And yet more folding. Figuring out the order to fold things in actually takes quite a while, since it's quite possible to mess it up to the point where you can't fold certain bits because other bits are already soldered in place (I found that out the hard way.... Twice ....) Also, this piece has some small tabs lining up with some holes to make sure everything's in the correct place.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-009-yet-more-soldering.jpg

 

A little more soldering and folding.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-010-first-frame-part-mostly-finished.jpg

 

First bit of the frame done. Some tabs were folded into place, these will need to get some thread tapped into them. Also did some initial cleaning using IPA and a small semi-stiff brush. There are still some folds that need strengthening with some solder, but I'll do that once I know everything fits. Right now I can still slight bend things in shape should they not be completely correct. 

 

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Martijn, you need to make this into a little self assembly animation!

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Stop motion of the whole thing going together, including the soldering .. That would be a rather insane amount of work 😄

 

I have thought about recording video while building, but there's a few issues.. I don't have a decent camera, I suck at recording video, I'm not very good at editing video either, and I doing a voice over would be weird.

 

Not to mention, it'd be a waste of time, because most people doing brass kits are very likely much better at it them than I am 😉

 

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9 hours ago, Martijn Meerts said:

That would be a rather insane amount of work

We are all pretty much insane here, what’s your point? Just kidding on the animation, just seeing the pictures of the piece folded up stepwise just felt like some Gumby and pokey stop motion animation.

 

shooting work well is really really hard and a lot of planning and care to do it well, and a lot of editing.

 

cheers,

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

It could actually be fun to do such an animation, but definitely not for a large kit like a loco. For something like a small H0e car it could be done. I have a few of the Toma Model Works H0e kits that are very simple to build. To do it well though, you'd have to fold in small increments and take lots of pictures. Although doing stop motion soldering would be the biggest issue 😄

 

I can add it to the bottom of the list of projects, so I'll get around to it in about 500 years.

 

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Martijn Meerts

Made quite a lot of progress and took a lot of pictures, which I'll be posting a few at a time over the next couple of days or so..

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-011-axle-box.jpg

 

Started working on the bracket that essentially holds the axle in place, it's just a really simple box that gets screwed in place, with a little spacer integrated.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-012-axle-box.jpg

 

Bracket all folded and soldered together.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-013-axle-brackets.jpg

 

The are the brackets for the other side of the axle. These are split for power pickup reasons. These simply fold 180 degrees and soldered in place.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-014-drive-unit-parts.jpg

 

All the parts for the drive unit.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-015-test-fit.jpg

 

Drive unit test fit, minus the motor obviously 🙂

 

 

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

More pitures

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-016-motor-brackets.jpg

 

Motor mounting plates.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-017-motor-brackets.jpg

 

These are also nothing special, just a couple of simple 180 and 90 degree folds, and a bit of solder.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-018-motor-brackets.jpg

 

And after a bit of cleaning they're ready to go.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-019-motor-test-fit.jpg

 

The motor in place. The worm wheel is not yet bonded to the motor.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-020-motor-test-fit.jpg

 

Other side of the motor mount.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-021-frame-plate.jpg

 

The main / bottom plate of the frame. This also just folds 180 degrees and gets soldered together. In a lot of places. All the square partially etched bits with the round holes in it are the spots where the halves are soldered.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-022-frame-plate.jpg

 

All soldered, cleaned up, and the holes marked by a 'T' are tapped with a 1.4mm tap using a pin vise. This needs to be done rather carefully in order to not break the tap, since they're very fragile. But also not to bend apart the 2 halves.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-023-test-fit-driven-axle.jpg

 

The drive unit in place on the bottom plate of the frame.

 

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

 

Yet more pictures ...

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-024-non-drive-axle-box.jpg

 

Some parts for the non-driven axle box.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-025-non-drive-axle-box.jpg

 

Nothing too special here, just a few straightforward 180 and 90 degree folds and soldering. Some care needs to be taken with the brakes, since they're fairly fragile.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-026-non-drive-axle-box.jpg

 

Carefully folded the brakes and soldered those.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-027-non-drive-axle-box.jpg

 

And then folded the entire brake section down on itself so they'll sit on the outside of the wheels. These were supposed to be 2 90 degree folds, but it was a bit tight, so I had to carefully bend the brakes themselves inwards just a little bit to get them to look right.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-028-non-drive-axle-box.jpg

 

The finished parts for the non driven axle box.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-029-non-drive-axle-frame-mount.jpg

 

Parts for the non drive axle mounting. The left is the actual mounting, the right is just a divided between the cab and the rest of the loco.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-030-non-drive-axle-frame-mount.jpg

 

Just some simple folds and soldering needed here.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-031-non-drive-axle-parts.jpg

 

Most of the parts for mounting the non driven axle onto the frame.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-033-test-fit.jpg

 

Non driven axle in place, sort of. There's not actually anything holding it onto the frame 🙂

 

 

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

Since I'm on a roll, some more pictures 😉

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-034-motor-shroud.jpg

 

2 simple parts for a motor shroud.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-035-motor-shroud.jpg

 

Simple 90 degree fold, and a bit of soldering, and the motor shroud was done.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-036-non-drive-axle-frame-mount-fix.jpg

 

This is the non driven axle mounting plate from the previous post. I hadn't soldered on this little pin, the instructions didn't really make it clear wether it should or shouldn't be soldered. After checking other options and some testing, I went ahead an soldered it on, and turns out this is probably the correct way, I hope ...

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-037-test-fit.jpg

 

Really quick preview with the shell. It's not really looking like much at all just yet, which I guess makes sense considering I've not added any details.

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

Final set of pictures for now...

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-038-linkage-springs-brakes.jpg

 

Parts for the linkage, springs and brakes (driven axle), linkage and springs (non driven axle).

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-039-linkage-springs-brakes-whoops.jpg

 

This is what happens if you get overconfident and start folding stuff before double checking things. I folded this the wrong way and it ended up snapping. I did manage to solder it back on initially, but then noticed that due to folding it the wrong way, I also soldered it on to the wrong side.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-040-linkage-springs-brakes-phew.jpg

 

So, had to remove it, clean it all up, try to get it in position and keep it there while carefully soldering it back on again.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-041-leaf-springs.jpg

 

The leaf springs and linkage detail are additional parts. Easy enough to fold and solder. Although, 1 of the small tabs that simulate a bracket for keeping the leafs in place did come off. This was easy enough to solder back on though.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-042-linkage-springs-brakes.jpg

 

Leaf springs in place, and brakes (carefully) folded on the left part.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-043-linkage-springs-brakes.jpg

 

More folding and soldering.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-044-linkage-springs-brakes.jpg

 

Yet more folding and soldering. Some of those folds were rather hard to do since there wasn't really a way to use a tool to help fold it correctly due to limited space. Ended up using some tweezers to carefully fold things, a couple of degrees at a time.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-045-test-fit.jpg

 

Detail bits added around the wheels, the remaining holes are for the actual axle bearings, which are cast white metal bits. Also, the motor shroud is installed here.

 

 

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The definition of fiddly, see above!

 

nice work Martijn.

 

jeff

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Madsing
On 7/18/2022 at 3:41 PM, Martijn Meerts said:

Final set of pictures for now...

Thanks for sharing these photos! It’s really interesting.

I have two World Kougei locomotives waiting to be assembled and painted, so I could definitely use some motivation here 😀

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maihama eki

I am in awe of your soldering skills.

 

I have only done hack soldering of electronics stuff.

 

What soldering iron and solder are you using?

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Martijn Meerts
6 hours ago, Madsing said:

Thanks for sharing these photos! It’s really interesting.

I have two World Kougei locomotives waiting to be assembled and painted, so I could definitely use some motivation here 😀

 

All I can say is, start with the easiest / cheapest one if you've not done any similar kits. My first 2 kits were pretty much ruined because I didn't know what I was doing and used the wrong tools 🙂

 

 

 

2 hours ago, maihama eki said:

I am in awe of your soldering skills.

 

I have only done hack soldering of electronics stuff.

 

What soldering iron and solder are you using?

 

As mentioned above, it took me a while to get reasonably comfortable with building these things. I can't claim I'm good at it since I still mess up, and it takes me a long time to build these.

 

I'm currently using a Weller WD2000M soldering/desoldering station. It's not necessarily great for these kits, but it works for me. The best thing is that the tips heat up real fast, and are hot swappable. Also, the soldering pen is really light and small, so I can reach everywhere. I have it set to 350 degrees most of the time, which is usually way too hot, but it helps with quickly heating up the parts of the metal that need heating. For white metal I lower the temperature a lot.

 

For solder I use standard stuff, with a small diameter. I cut this into small pieces and place those pieces where needed. I also have some pre-cut pieces, but cutting them yourself is easy enough. With a little flux and heat it flows nice and quick.

 

For white metal casts I use a low temp solder since a lot of white metal has a lower melting point than regular solder.

 

For flux I use "soldering water", a very liquid flux with capillary action, so it gets everywhere. A single drop is usually enough. For stainless steel parts I have a special flux, which is a lot more acidic and requires thorough and immediate cleaning with isopropyl alcohol after soldering.

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My mantra. Soldering is like carnage hall, practice, practice, practice!

 

youtube is your friend to find good demos and techniques and then just practice. Decent soldering station that is temperature controllable and good tips is good. Bit of decent flux and good solder and then what? Practice.

 

even after a lifetime of soldering, brazing and welding I still need to practice a little if I haven't soldered in a while. It’s a total feel thing that you pick up with practice and have to refresh at times with practice. I’ve taught many to solder and it’s something most anyone can do with some guidance and practice.

 

for kit construction get some inexpensive arunine kits and solder them up as practice. They are simpler tab and slot design, but it will get you into folding and soldering different joints. Even just soldering bits of the extra brass sprues is a great way to experiment with techniques, fluxes, solders and see see the results.

 

cheers

 

jeff

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Martijn Meerts

Yep, definitely a lot of continuous practice helps a lot.

 

I used to really hate soldering, to the point where I'd spend (a lot) more money on rail joiners with wires soldered on and such. I couldn't even get a simple wire soldered onto a bit of track. At the time I had a simple soldering iron, but even with a temperature controlled one it just wouldn't work. At the time I wasn't really into Japanese trains that much yet, but I did have some Marklin where I tried installed a decoder, which was a pain.

 

When I get into Japanese trains I decided to research soldering stations and ended up getting the Weller. For me, that was what caused me to no longer hate soldering, and start doing hardwire decoder installs and eventually these kits. That's not to say that a station like the one I have is a requirement, it's just that I was immediately comfortable using that. I also know people who do everything with a simple 25 euro soldering iron with no temperature control at all, and they get much cleaner soldered joints.

 

Soldering white metal will always be a pain though, stuff takes an age to warm up enough to take solder, and then takes about as long to cool down and get the solder to set. Depending on the part, I often end up using epoxy on those instead of soldering them 🙂

 

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Martijn Meerts

Got a little more work in, not as much as I wanted, but it was close to 40 degrees Celsius here not long ago, so that meant not doing much at all 😄

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-046-underfloor-details.jpg

 

Parts for the underfloor details, including the main plate, 4 boxes / brackets, and the motor and motor mount.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-047-underfloor-box.jpg

 

The boxes and brackets are mostly the same. Fold over the etched bit 180 degrees and solder it in place on the back. Then fold everything 90 degrees to form a box and add a bit of solder so it stays in shape.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-048-underfloor-box.jpg

 

I usually do the front, back, top and bottom first, and solder that, before folding up the sides. I make sure to check if everything's 90 degrees before soldering the sides in place.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-049-underfloor-details.jpg

 

This is the first box soldered onto the bottom detail plate.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-050-underfloor-details-and-motor-mount.jpg

 

All the boxes and brackets soldered onto the underfloor plate. There's still some details to add, but those will come after the motor. For the motor mount, I first fold up the sides of the 4 legs, add some solder to strengthen the folds, and then fold up the legs themselves. I then solder all those in place once I've tested the whole mount fits in the little holes on the underfloor plate.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-051-underfloor-details-test-fit.jpg

 

Quick test fit to see how it looks on the loco so far. I did notice that I need to solder the motor into its mount, because once the mount is in place, there's not enough space for the motor to go in. Since the motor is a cast part though, I need to do a bit of testing before I attempt to solder it. I looks like it might be cast in brass rather than white metal, which means no accidental melting. The motor is also hollow which should help with heating it up.

 

 

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Martijn Meerts

The past days have been busy with work again, as well as it being pretty warm here. I did however get a little bit of work in again.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-052-steps-parts.jpg

 

Parts for the steps around the sites of the Kiwa90. There are a total of 6 steps.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-053-detail-parts.jpg

 

Some small detail bits which I don't really know what they are 🙂

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-054-steps-installed.jpg

 

Steps and other detail bits installed.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-055-springs-installed.jpg

 

And the springs back in place again.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-056-motor-and-other-details-installed.jpg

 

And now with the motor and additional details in place.

 

 

large.jrc-hoj-kiwa90-057-motor-and-other-details-installed-fliped.jpg

 

Same as above, but from the other side. Quite a lot of detail for a part of the train you're likely never really going to see...

 

 

There are still a couple of small things left to install on the frame before I can start work on the shell. 1 of the parts left for the frame is white metal, so I need to be careful with that. I'll install that once I'm certain everything else is soldered onto the frame. I might glue it rather than solder it, but with the low melting point solder, that should work as well.

 

From there I will need to glue the worm wheel to the motor's axle, and then wire up the power pickup and motor. I'll also need to come up with a way of adding the various lights, and then probably 3D print some sort of bracket to hold all the electronics in place (decoder, power pack, etc)

 

 

 

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