Jump to content

H0e forest railways with H0 branch line


Martijn Meerts

Recommended Posts

Martijn Meerts

There's movement ...

 

It's definitely not smooth yet, the decoder needs plenty of fine tuning. The motor is also not quite as smooth as it should be, especially when going forwards at somewhat higher speeds (it starts making a rather interesting sound). However, most parts aren't lubricated yet, and obviously none of the parts have been run it at all. Still, the drive rods seem to be doing what they're supposed to do.

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to post
gavino200
3 hours ago, Martijn Meerts said:

the decoder needs plenty of fine tuning.

 

Very nice. What kind of fine tuning are you going to give the decoder? 

Link to post
Martijn Meerts

Mostly how the motor is driven in various speed ranges so it's less jerky and has better low speed running. The Lokpilots have a lot of options for improving running, but it's a lot of tedious work 🙂

 

I also need to figure out if I want to use a regular H0 decoder or a micro one. The bigger H0 ones have a bit higher output which might be better considering the weight of the loco and the weight it'll be pulling.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
gavino200

What's the size of a regular HO decoder? It seems like you'll have plenty of space for one. it would be a shame to skimp on power after all the work you're putting into this awesome project. 

Link to post
Martijn Meerts

The micro one is 8.0 x 7.0 x 2.4mm. The regular one is 21.4 x 15.5 x 4.5mm.

 

So, it's quite a bit bigger, but it does have at least twice the power of the micro one, had more function outputs, and those function outputs can deliver more power. Not that I really need that, considering the only think I need to power are LEDs.

 

There is plenty space in the tender of course, but that would mean having several wires from tender to loco. I don't know how much space I'll have in the loco itself, much of the boiler is filled with weights, and I don't want to remove any of that if not absolutely needed. I might just order a regular decoder to test with, or at least cut out some styrene or cardboard in the size of the decoder. And, apart from the decoder, I also need room for the power pack / capacitor for short term power storage. I won't know for certain if I can fit it anywhere until I start building the main body of the loco, which is quite daunting judging by the instructions 😄

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Jaco3011

Did you remove the capacitors and inductors? Decoder has PWM on output, and PWM doesn't like capacitors and inductors.

Link to post
Martijn Meerts

It had no capacitors or anything. Pretty sure it's a coreless motor though, so that needs some changes in the decoder settings. Also, it's now run a total of maybe 2 minutes, so it still needs lots of running in, but I don't have the track for a full loop at the moment. The curved track I have is too tight for the C55 to go through, which makes sense considering it's a standard TT-gauge curve.

 

 

Link to post
Martijn Meerts

The past days it's been pretty warm here, so the attic's been heating up quite nicely. It's already too warm to comfortably work on something there. So, I moved some tools and things down a floor so I can continue building some kits in a room with an AC unit 🙂

 

Before continuing the C55, I decided to first build one of the Toma Model Works kits I got a while ago. These are very simple kits of various cars used on the Kido Kamioka line. Prototypically they're actually 610mm gauge cars, but these Toma kits are regular H0e.

 

large.jrc-hoe-toma-kido-kamioka-box-car-01-parts.jpg

 

These are all the parts for the kit. 3 brass sheets, a pre-bent roof, 2 axles and 1 screw. Documentation is not included, but they added a link to a PDF. The documentation is very basic though, but then again, so is the kit.

 

 

large.jrc-hoe-toma-kido-kamioka-box-car-02-frame_and_initial_body.jpg

 

This shows the frame and part of the body on the tender of the C55 kit, just to show the size.

 

 

large.jrc-hoe-toma-kido-kamioka-box-car-03-test_fit.jpg

 

Test fitting the body on the frame. Most of the body isn't soldered yet. Also, the coupler is quite interesting, since you have to insert the loop into the coupler pocket, and then insert the little pin to keep it in place. Definitely not shunting friendly 😄

 

 

large.jrc-hoe-toma-kido-kamioka-box-car-04-size_comparison.jpg

 

And a size comparison to the WaFu22000.

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Martijn Meerts

That wouldn't make much sense, since these kits have already been adjusted for 9mm. Converting them again now means modifying a good part of the frame. Also, these are fairly loosely based on a 610mm prototype, but they're generic enough to use on H0e. I also have some side dumping cars in H0e for which the prototype was also a 610mm gauge car.

 

And I really don't want to do 3 gauges on 1 layout 😄

 

Link to post
Jaco3011
3 hours ago, Martijn Meerts said:

That wouldn't make much sense, since these kits have already been adjusted for 9mm. Converting them again now means modifying a good part of the frame. Also, these are fairly loosely based on a 610mm prototype, but they're generic enough to use on H0e. I also have some side dumping cars in H0e for which the prototype was also a 610mm gauge car.

 

And I really don't want to do 3 gauges on 1 layout 😄

 

You may add some 1372mm/1435mm tramway or private railway and go for 4. This does not include:
- H0n3 - 10,5mm gauge - 3' (914mm) narrow gauge used in USA
- H0p - 4,5mm gauge - parkbahn/ minimal gauge railway

- X scale model railway using T scale 3mm tracks

- non-standard broad gauge railway using EM (18,2mm) or P4 (18,8mm) tracks

- monorail

Link to post
Martijn Meerts

Or I'll just stick to 2 gauges instead 😉

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Martijn Meerts

Project is on a bit of a forced break at the moment. A while ago I started a remodelling project for the kitchen, living room and hallway. Unfortunately, lots of stuff went wrong, which caused massive delays. The house is a bit of a mess right now, so I don't have a comfortable space to work on things at the moment.

 

But, the new floor is going in as I type this, and in about a month, the new kitchen will be installed. After that I can start clean up the rest of the house, and then work on the project again. Hopefully by then I can even take some time off from work, haven't actually taken any time off at all, apart from for working on the renovation stuff 😄

 

  • Like 1
Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...