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What did you order or the post deliver? (HO and other scales)

bikkuri bahn

By bikkuri bahn
in Japanese: Other Gauges & Scales

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shadowtiger25

shadowtiger25

Posted
Posted

I ordered a Tenshodo Die-cast JNR C62-2 Hokkaido style, and its on its way to my door. HO scale, Quantum sound system in it. SOOO cant wait to take it to my local club to watch them flip over the thing. (plus, a Japanese train on an American C&O model,  I love see their reactions to my Japanese stuff)

 

Pictures from the seller

600x450 marketenterprise 2006 8d2e3ff4a84d 0 1 14230541349264

600x450 marketenterprise 2006 8d2e3ff4a850 0 2 14230541349264

Will upload pics and a video when I get it

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cteno4

cteno4

Posted
Posted

I simply use a dud ball-pen...

 

Cheers NB

Ha like it!

 

I used the head of a finishing nail in grad school for lectaset lettering when the burnished went missing late one night! Those where the days of making graphs and figures by hand pre computer then shooting then with this stuff called film to make these odd little square things called slides to do a seminar lecture! At least I was able to treach folks to use lectaset lettering and architectural pin tape instead of rapidographs pens and templates -- those were nasty, one goof and start over! Luckily the Mac came along right then and saved us all!

 

Jeff

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Ken Ford

Ken Ford

Posted
Posted

Jeff, I was in training to be a mechanical draftsman as a teen but took up photojournalism instead - which was a good thing since the computer aided revolution happened just a few years later. I still have all my gear, kids today would look at them and think they were antiques.

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cteno4

cteno4

Posted
Posted

Ohh you dodged a bullet there! We had a draftsman in our department at Berkeley to do final figures for publications. He was out of work w/in a year of the Mac coming out and finished out his last years until retirement driving the shuttle bus around the campus.

 

Jeff

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cteno4

cteno4

Posted
Posted

Ha, bet you used a hot waxer in your act along with plenty of rubber cement! I still have a hot wax roller somewhere. But did you ever play with Lacy Lucy? I had a mad relationship with her one summer in high school along with many books of nasty fonts...

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

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cteno4

cteno4

Posted
Posted

Lacy Lucy the image enlarger for quick tracing. Put the image on the lower level and you can crank it up and down to resize the projecte image on the upper frosted glass panel you trace on. Quick and cheap way to do larger labels and such from font books for roughs. Ahh those font books with all the leading and such marks and notations!

 

Jeff

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Nick_Burman

Nick_Burman

Posted
Posted

Further to Mark's suggestion, I decided to tackle redoing the numbering of one of my Tramway TaKi35000 tank cars which I had botched the first time round.. I followed his idea...and success! No mess and I got the numbers perfectly centered and aligned. Saint Mark! :grin

 

post-283-0-50343800-1424920942_thumb.jpg

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marknewton

marknewton

Posted
Posted

Thanks Nick, but I can't claim credit for the idea. It was my wife who suggested it after she got sick of hearing me swearing while trying to apply dry transfers freehand... :)

 

These are the tools I use for dry transfers. Not shown are the lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol that I use to clean the model thoroughly before putting the transfers on. Dry transfers don't like greasy fingerprints or any trace of mold release agents, so cleaning the model is the all-important first step.

 

Most of my tools are self-explanatory except perhaps for the fibreglass eraser. I find that models moulded in self-coloured plastic, such as the Kato Hoki2200 hoppers, have a slightly waxy surface that the transfers don't adhere well to. So I use the eraser to very lightly scuff the area where the transfers go, just enough to take away the waxy feel. I find this is very effective in conjunction with the cleaning with alcohol, which I suspect removes any remaining traces of mold release agent. The small burnishing tool at the bottom works like a propelling pencil and has interchangeable tips.

 

16462518148_dc15a812ec_o_d.jpg

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

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Nick_Burman

Nick_Burman

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Thanks Nick, but I can't claim credit for the idea. It was my wife who suggested it after she got sick of hearing me swearing while trying to apply dry transfers freehand... :)

 

Mark,

 

LOL! I know how it feels like...

 

Cheers NB

  • Like 1
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shadowtiger25

shadowtiger25

Posted
Posted

I got my C62-2, only to find that its gears need repaired... *sighs* well... that's 750 down the drain... hopefully I can get it repaired...

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railsquid

railsquid

Posted
Posted

Is anyone else here in the US taking obscene advantage of the favorable exchange rate to pick up models that they've wanted? I've been waffling about getting a Kato HO DE10 for over a year, but the current rate made it irresistible - Nariichi-san to the rescue.

 

Not in the US and not USian but based in Japan and paid in USD with too much knowledge about where the bargains are to be had... My biggest problem is hiding it all from the Mrs.

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shadowtiger25

shadowtiger25

Posted
Posted

What's wrong with your C62 that it needs repair?

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

Its has a broken gear somewhere in it. It makes a clicking noise and stops on that noise. Its most likely the gear that runs the drive wheel, and one or 2 of the gear teeth are broken. Simple repair if I could get/make the part. or just find someone in my area that doesn't look at it and say, I don't know Japanese stuff, only American. Or if I could just have a watch maker in the area make another gear for me. (if I did that I would be tempted to replace all of the plastic gears with brass)

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shadowtiger25

shadowtiger25

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Posted

It almost sounds like classic split gear syndrome. You can likely get direct drop-in replacements from NWSL.

I opened him up, and I found out that most of the gears were metal (to my amazement) and the only one that was plastic, on the drive axil, is split.. how do I get a replacement for that?

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shadowtiger25

shadowtiger25

Posted
Posted

Check with NWSL.

I could probably request one from them, but the gear that has a split is on the axil of the drive wheel. I can not get ether side of that wheel off to replace the gear. A new gear would have to have a small split in it to even get it on the axil.. It would be nice to just find a replacement drive wheel.

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Ken Ford

Ken Ford

Posted
Posted

I could probably request one from them, but the gear that has a split is on the axil of the drive wheel. I can not get ether side of that wheel off to replace the gear. A new gear would have to have a small split in it to even get it on the axil.. It would be nice to just find a replacement drive wheel.

 

The wheels are pressed onto the axle, you just need a wheel press - but you would also need to requarter the driver once it's back together.

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