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What did you do on your layout today? (N scale)


bill937ca

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Due to some unfortunate circumstances, I've had to take a semester off from school and move back home to Los Angles.  This meant dismantling my layout, but hopefully this just means that I can build it better next time!  A Sayonara (for now) Special was run using some older oha 35 coaches and a 9600 class SL, before the a kiha 40 series made the last run.  In the mean time I may try to build some modules for practice, probably out of foam core like tony is doing, much easier than wood!  

attachicon.gifsayonara SL 1.jpgattachicon.gifsayonara SL 2.jpgattachicon.gifsayonara SL 3.jpgattachicon.gifsayonara SL 4.jpgattachicon.gifsayonara SL 5.jpgattachicon.gifLast run.jpg

Sorry to hear that. Hope things turn out better real quick and you'll be able to get back into it! 

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Drunkenclam

Spent a couple of hours deciphering point cables. Cutting, joining and soldering and clipping up out of the way.

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ToniBabelony

Too bad about having to move and school. I've been in the same position once, so I can relate a bit. Good luck with it all!

Also, I'm not really using foam core board, but just plates without any special finish (just quite dense stuff). No paper, as the humidity levels in Japan are insanely high in summer.

Edited by Kabutoni
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enodenlover

I spent the afternoon turning four of Kato's double track ramen catenary bridges into two of the 'stacked" type that Velotrain posted about last month. They're going to straddle a short stretch of single track on my new layout so I removed one of the insulators on the lower horizontal beam as well as both on the upper beam, then I added to each bridge's upper level four large insulators that I had left over from Tomytec's electric transmission towers. Some silver spray paint along with hand-painting all the insulators white and I now have a pair of not-too-accurate but acceptable ( at least to me ) bi-level catenary bridges.

 

Bob

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Gatorboard is faced with a plasticized wood pulp (i.e. Paper) and ultraboard is faced with stryene sheet (015 or better). Ultraboard is much more resistant to dings and is more rigid. Ultraboard also seems to have a denser and harder forum core than gatorboard in my experience. This is why ultraboard is used a lot in signmaking and pos sales displays as its durable and very waterproof.

 

Their cost is around the same and I've always been able to find some form of ultraboard at local plastic shops (and some sign makers) whereas gatorboard is not locally sourced around here (at one time one art chain locally had it but their prices are generally 2x for most things unfortunately).

 

Ultraboard pretty much has to be cut with a table saw or router, it's very hard to cut with a knife. A fine ply or plastics blade cuts it nicely. You could use a small circular saw with guides. Gatorboard can be cut with a matteknife, but it's work.

 

I love ultraboard as it really makes solid structures and glues well. I was introduced to ultraboard long before I ever saw gatorboard. We had a signmaker in one of our exhibit teams and he got us using it to make structural elements that needed to go high or get moved easily. If I need something stiffer and tougher than foamcore then better to just go to the best material in my opinion.

 

It would be the ultimate to make strong and ultralight Ttrak modules. Face with a strip of nice wood veneer to make pretty!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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nscalestation

Due to some unfortunate circumstances, I've had to take a semester off from school and move back home to Los Angles.  This meant dismantling my layout, but hopefully this just means that I can build it better next time!  A Sayonara (for now) Special was run using some older oha 35 coaches and a 9600 class SL, before the a kiha 40 series made the last run.  In the mean time I may try to build some modules for practice, probably out of foam core like tony is doing, much easier than wood! 

 

Sam sorry to hear you are leaving the bay area.  Please do stay in touch and hopefully you be able to return and continue your program soon.

Edited by nscalestation
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nscalestation

Been continuing work on the subway station construction site scene.  Had a vacant area across the street from the station site so decided to make that a support area for the construction site.  Place to store materials, equipment, etc.

 

 

Construction site support area

 
Started out with a .040 thick sheet of styrene cut to fit the area.
 
 

Construction site support area

 
Added sidewalk at one end and .040 x .040 styrene strip along the remaining edges where fencing would be installed.  Painted everything except the sidewalk black and then sprinkled dark N scale ballast into diluted white glue that had been spread over the surface.
 
 

Construction site support area

 
Next added the Casco construction fencing.  2 holes were drilled through the styrene and module deck and 4-40 screws were installed to hold this scene in place.
 
 

Construction  site support area

 

Various detail items can be arranged to cover the screw heads.

 

Only about 10 days before our 1 week long exhibition.  Within a couple days I am going to have to break off the work on the scenery and pack up the modules so I can get all the other stuff ready that it takes to run a layout.

 

  • Like 11
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Hahh, I also started to build a construction site on a T-trak modul with the active help of Coroman. :)  Pictures from yesterday:

 

post-212-0-18519300-1490960575_thumb.jpg   post-212-0-73882200-1490960583_thumb.jpg

  • Like 5
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Built some interior walls for the Tomytec restaurant and a kitchen area.  I would like to add more seats and people along the low divider wall and a booth or two to the left by the hallway to "washrooms".   It definitely looks better when looking in from the front. Still have to get some Kato dining staff and find a source of N scale chairs and tables, even if they are blobs like the Tomytec ones that came with the kit.  This building will be very close the the front edge of my future layout so I would like the interior to look believable.

 

Before

 

Customers for the restaurant

 
After
 

tomytecrestaurant

  • Like 14
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That is fantastic work! Now it really looks like a nice restaurant, and I can tell business is good!  :)

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Today I made further experimental runs with the new H5... full-size test of H5+E6 coupled had to go. I set up only the viaduct loop for it, no decoration layout (thus no photo) since it was basically a technical test.

 

First, both E6 and H5 full size coupled is an amazing view. Even if waaay to long for my dinner-table layout.

 

Second, I looked one time more for derailings. It happened. Only in one direction (H5 leading), only one car (No. 8) always same bogie, same axis. E6 leading had no problem at all on all speeds I ran the couple.

Thus I checked some detail...

(1) Both trains uncoupled had almost same speed in both directions. That's interesting since the the H5 was noticably faster when it had only 6 cars. With full 10 cars, that levels out.

(2) Even uncoupled the same axis as before derailed on the H5. Car 8. So it results not from coupling two trains.

(3) Checked what happens when I remove car 8 from the H5. No derailings at all in either direction.

(4) Coupled again the 9-car H5 to the E6 and the derailing problem was gone entirely. Either direction, either speed, no problem at all.

 

I examined car No. 8 a bit closer. It seems to me the derailing bogie does not move so freely on its pivot as the other one does. Checking with a magnifying glass it seems all the plastic parts on the bogies of the cars have some remains of flash. This may hinder free movement enough that a light car pops off the rail in a curve.

It may also explain why some of us do not have derailings at all why others get mad about it with the same type of train. Flash from the moulding process may appear very randomly on the bogies or pivots.

 

For now... until I have time to take it apart and clean the bogies, H526-403 (car No. 8) is "z-gestellt", as the German railroader says.

Edited by medusa
  • Like 2
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Now it really looks like a nice restaurant, and I can tell business is good!  :)

It was a full house before they even had a kitchen, so it will really take off now ;-)

  • Like 1
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Just starting a B-train layout; 18" x 36". Most shapes and forms in the photo are place holders. Spent yesterday assembling tomytec's bamboo trees - time consuming, that's for sure!

Progress report; finished the backdrops, airbrushed clouds. Started adding paper mache hills and foam grasses, planted bamboo. Economy shipping from Japan can sure affect my instant gratification!

post-1699-0-72125000-1491174208_thumb.jpg

  • Like 8
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ToniBabelony

A little extra post on the exhibition in Hamamatsuchō that ended yesterday with all the modules on display:

 

post-188-0-57120500-1491182408_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-26060900-1491182410_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-87597200-1491182412_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-99456500-1491182413_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-10053300-1491182415_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-37371800-1491182416_thumb.jpg

post-188-0-89866700-1491182417_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-49188900-1491182419_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-43654500-1491182420_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-47060500-1491182421_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-75021100-1491182436_thumb.jpgpost-188-0-95208400-1491182439_thumb.jpg
 

A few modules will be on display as well coming saturday in the Kato Hobby Centre.

Edited by Kabutoni
  • Like 6
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Today I made further experimental runs with the new H5... full-size test of H5+E6 coupled had to go. I set up only the viaduct loop for it, no decoration layout (thus no photo) since it was basically a technical test.

 

First, both E6 and H5 full size coupled is an amazing view. Even if waaay to long for my dinner-table layout.

 

Second, I looked one time more for derailings. It happened. Only in one direction (H5 leading), only one car (No. 8) always same bogie, same axis. E6 leading had no problem at all on all speeds I ran the couple.

Thus I checked some detail...

(1) Both trains uncoupled had almost same speed in both directions. That's interesting since the the H5 was noticably faster when it had only 6 cars. With full 10 cars, that levels out.

(2) Even uncoupled the same axis as before derailed on the H5. Car 8. So it results not from coupling two trains.

(3) Checked what happens when I remove car 8 from the H5. No derailings at all in either direction.

(4) Coupled again the 9-car H5 to the E6 and the derailing problem was gone entirely. Either direction, either speed, no problem at all.

 

I examined car No. 8 a bit closer. It seems to me the derailing bogie does not move so freely on its pivot as the other one does. Checking with a magnifying glass it seems all the plastic parts on the bogies of the cars have some remains of flash. This may hinder free movement enough that a light car pops off the rail in a curve.

It may also explain why some of us do not have derailings at all why others get mad about it with the same type of train. Flash from the moulding process may appear very randomly on the bogies or pivots.

 

For now... until I have time to take it apart and clean the bogies, H526-403 (car No. 8) is "z-gestellt", as the German railroader says.

 

I think I have a similar problem with my E5. My car 1 has always been a prone to derailment in the forward direction. It's a bit more troublesome when running coupled with the Komachi. In light of your post, I took the front bogie off today to examine. The bogie itself is ok, but the plastic pillar on the cab that it clicks onto was really rough. I don't know what "flashing" is. I'll reasearch it. But I expected something subtle if anything. There's nothing subtle about it. It was very rough. I sort of polished it with a rounded forceps and replaced the bogie. It moves much more freely. It's running faithfully now both with and without the E6.

 

One thing still bothers me. The E5 stalls slightly crossing my insulated track joiners. This is, I think because it has limited pickup due to the tractions tires. I'm tempted to get a second motor unit for it to solve this. 

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ToniBabelony

Destruction:

 

IMG_20170405_084222_DRO.jpg

 

Will be concentrating on T-Trak from now on with possibly long and narrow modules to mimic mountain scenery similar to the Tōbu Kinugawa line.

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Ouch, not an april fools joke!

 

jeff

 

Destruction:

 

IMG_20170405_084222_DRO.jpg

 

Will be concentrating on T-Trak from now on with possibly long and narrow modules to mimic mountain scenery similar to the Tōbu Kinugawa line.

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Sanded, sanded, sanded. sanded all the sides of the modules with the oscillating belt sander. does such a nice job on sides like this and got the tops all smooth and square with the sides.

 

jeff 

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ToniBabelony

Next to the demolishing, some more demolishing... Well, in some people's eyes it's demolishing. I call it improving looks with TN couplers! :D The distance between the cars have been halved at least in comparison with the bulky Arnold couplers.

 

IMG_20170405_142229.jpg

 

Oi loik i' a lo'!

  • Like 2
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Toni,

 

Nice! Which tns did you use? Any replacement for the drawbar connector between the two sets?

 

Jeff

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ToniBabelony

Nice! Which tns did you use? Any replacement for the drawbar connector between the two sets?

 

Just standard 0336's. I had to modify one for the motor car of the 6050 (old GM unit), but the new coreless motor of the 634 doesn't need modification of the TN coupler. You do need to modify all the bogies (cut away the Arnold coupler), so that might be a turnoff for many people to commit to TN couplers.

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