Bernard Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 macdon - really like the station....wished I had it on my layout! Link to comment
lurkingknight Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I think this iteration of the facade is the best so far.. now it looks like a building that makes sense. The roof thickness on street level looks a bit thick.. if you think about it, the thickness is the height of the door, so the scaling looks a bit weird on it. Link to comment
kvp Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 This really looks like a modern shinkansen station! Also, i wouldn't worry about the roof thickness, there are several examples of this design, they are usually hollow steel or composite steel/concrete structures with external cover and the thickness is part of the design. Link to comment
macdon Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) After establishing a 3 x 248mm long commuter station, I ordered the Kato overhead station and 23-120 island flag stop platforms to mate with it from MTP. The 23-120 island flag stop platforms has holes that would perfectly mate with the overhead station, so I took off the roof of one platform and connected it to the base of the overhead station. So, overhead station is 1 x 248mm + 1 x 248mm flag stop platform + 2 x 70mm (140mm) platform ends results to 636mm. Thats 108mm short of my planned 744mm long station. I made a 108mm long platform from sintra and mated it with 1 x 70mm platform end. The roof I took out from one of the flag stop platforms was too long for the new platform so I had to cut it. A tiled decal was used to join the sintra platform and the 70mm platform end to make it look as one. After adding some details and figures, it was joined with the overhead station Attaching a flag stop platform at the other side of the overhead station results to a unsightly 1/4" gap between the station building and flag stop roof. I took care of this gap by cutting 1/4" wide roof material from the previous cut and glued it to the other roof. Now, there's no gap. What to do with a cut roof.......... Cut it again in the middle........ Clean up, sand and assemble it again with glue.........but in a different manner....... Attach to a spare low platform to possibly serve as a small tram station..... Mardon Edited March 8, 2014 by macdon Link to comment
katoftw Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 any reason why you just didn't buy the long island platform ends to get the length of platform you required? just adding one of the longs ones would've got you your 108mm extra. 2 Link to comment
macdon Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Just testing the tram line video: http://youtu.be/9bOlBZjX9HQ Mardon 1 Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Just testing the tram line video: http://youtu.be/9bOlBZjX9HQ Mardon That's looking great Mardon! Nice route with two intersections! Especially loving that ultra long extension from the shinkansen station to the tram stop! Link to comment
lurkingknight Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 oh wow I didn't realize you had a whole walkway between the tram station and the shinkansen station Link to comment
cteno4 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Nice loop, looks like the tomytec portram takes it well! They just hate any track joints that kink vertically. Jeff Link to comment
macdon Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Still working on a few structures.................... Made a parking structure and placed it between the shinkansen and commuter stations. Planning on a small logistics company besides it. Maybe a small office on top of the warehouse. With the left over 3mm clear acrylic from the station facade build, I cut them up and built a pedestrian bridge with a walkalator between shinkansen and commuter stations. With the rest of the clear acrylic, I built these structures........ Mardon Link to comment
JR 500系 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Amazing Handiwork! Looking really good ¬¬ The last Toyoko Inn looks really good! Now to paint them into colour ¬ Link to comment
macdon Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Small update......... I had some spare double track viaducts that only required a $6 easement curves to extend the shinkansen line just a bit, so I went for it. Kato park in front of station..... Mardon 1 Link to comment
tossedman Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Looks great! Any plans to "pave" between the rails on your tram tracks Mardon? Link to comment
macdon Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Looks great! Any plans to "pave" between the rails on your tram tracks Mardon? Thanks Todd. I do have some 7mm files to try once I get the roadways and sidewalks done. Mardon Link to comment
macdon Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Thanks Bernard! I still havent decided if it'll be permanent as i'm still thinking of what to put in front of the station. Mardon Link to comment
macdon Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Testing: Tomytec T100 Santram I got this tram to possibly add to my shinkansen layout...... T100 santram out of the box... TM-LRT02 power unit out of the box.......... comes with 2 square weights(?) Removing the tram body shells from the plastic chassis........... T100 santram on TM-LRT02 power chassis......... Size in relation to tomytec centram.......... The tram having 2 pivot points basically breaks it into 3 sections. Motor is in the middle section with dog bones on each end to power wheels. The slack between pivot points and weight of the center section where the motor is located - kinda lowers the tram in the middle creating a horizontal bow as if lifting both ends. Short video of the tram working the mountain on my shinkansen layout: Mardon 1 Link to comment
kvp Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I'm almost certain that the bottom black ends of the power unit have to be flush with the bottom ends of the chassis pieces. That way, the bow would not be present, since under the covers the power unit still looks perfectly straight and level. Also, the weights look like they should be placed into the end sections (usually somewhere under the roof). Reassembling it correctly should sove all issues above. Sadly i can only confirm this personally when my preordered hiroshima variant arrives. (hopefully soon) Link to comment
Densha Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 That mountain loop is great! These three-part trams are so cool, but I must resist the temptation... Link to comment
macdon Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 I'm almost certain that the bottom black ends of the power unit have to be flush with the bottom ends of the chassis pieces. That way, the bow would not be present, since under the covers the power unit still looks perfectly straight and level. Also, the weights look like they should be placed into the end sections (usually somewhere under the roof). Reassembling it correctly should sove all issues above. Sadly i can only confirm this personally when my preordered hiroshima variant arrives. (hopefully soon) I've reassembled it thrice to see if I've done it correctly, but the power chassis is not straight and level. both ends have a lowered portion in the front which probably gave you the impression that the body shells still needs to be lowered down. This pic shows the top chassis hitting the top of the shell......... But bottom chassis can still be seen......... One reason for the shell not going down is because the interior shell has a bulge of plastic in the front......... To solve both problems, the 2 end shells should be moved further away from the center which clears the bulge and making the shell go down a bit. When running straight no problems, but when turning gaps between the sections will be present. I thought that the bowing is due to making both end shells closer than it should be to the center and moving it further apart is the right way - it probably is. But as you can see, its already longer than when it was back in its original plastic chassis. When running, maybe the gaps wont be noticeable and of course a larger curve will lessen the gap. Im sure there's a happy medium. Link to comment
kvp Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 I don't know how, but IST did manage to put it together somehow. Hopefully he can shed some light on it... On the image above the tram looks more or less level and it's showing relatively little gaps going through the curves on the video. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Mardon. you got it right but you may have to wiggle it a bit as you slide the front sections back towards the center while the bottom of the shell is level with the bottom of the mech chassis. there is about a 1-2mm jump it will make in towards the center when that little front lip of the mech slides into the notch on the inside of the front shell. when that happens you get the tight fit like ist did in the pict above and the gap just starts to show a tiny tiny bit when view at a hard angle at the full rotation of the mech rotation points so it all looks right even on tight curves. it is a little fiddly and it can also pop out pretty easily as mine did when i just knocked over on the desk and i noticed one end was then popped forward and up a tiny bit. at least its way way way better than the greenmax greenmover! should start seeing some hack and wacks of this mech into 5 segment trams soon! jeff Link to comment
macdon Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 That wiggling helped - thanks! Did you get to use the weights? 5-segment trams? I would love to see that! Mardon Link to comment
cteno4 Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Mardon, Cool, glad it worked! Thanks for mentioning the weights as mine were stuck in the bottom of my chassis box! Put them in, guess its a bit more weight over the trucks, but seeks pretty tiny ans does not even fill the space. Ill see if mathew can read the instructions when I see him Friday to see if they mention a purpose. Jeff Link to comment
macdon Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Jeff - mine didnt slip out the box as well. Glad I looked inside before thrashing the box. Just pry off the grey roof from the end shells for the weights. Yeah, my guess would be more weight on the trucks for better traction since motor is in a different segment. Mardon Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now