Jump to content

My shinkansen layout project


macdon

Recommended Posts

lurkingknight

I think this iteration of the facade is the best so far.. now it looks like a building that makes sense. The roof thickness on street level looks a bit thick.. if you think about it, the thickness is the height of the door, so the scaling looks a bit weird on it.

Link to comment

This really looks like a modern shinkansen station! Also, i wouldn't worry about the roof thickness, there are several examples of this design, they are usually hollow steel or composite steel/concrete structures with external cover and the thickness is part of the design.

Link to comment

After establishing a 3 x 248mm long commuter station, I ordered the Kato overhead station and 23-120 island flag stop platforms to mate with it from MTP. 

 

The 23-120 island flag stop platforms has holes that would perfectly mate with the overhead station, so I took off the roof of one platform and connected it to the base of the overhead station. So, overhead station is 1 x 248mm + 1 x 248mm flag stop platform + 2 x 70mm (140mm) platform ends results to 636mm. Thats 108mm short of my planned 744mm long station.

 

I made a 108mm long platform from sintra and mated it with 1 x 70mm platform end. The roof I took out from one of the flag stop platforms was too long for the new platform so I had to cut it.

 

post-1282-0-56771700-1394267652_thumb.jpg

 

A tiled decal was used to join the sintra platform and the 70mm platform end to make it look as one. After adding some details and figures, it was joined with the overhead station

 

post-1282-0-56618800-1394267680_thumb.jpg

 

Attaching a flag stop platform at the other side of the overhead station results to a unsightly 1/4" gap between the station building and flag stop roof. I took care of this gap by cutting 1/4" wide roof material from the previous cut and glued it to the other roof. Now, there's no gap.

 

post-1282-0-34572800-1394267702_thumb.jpg

 

What to do with a cut roof..........

 

post-1282-0-88590100-1394267724_thumb.jpg

 

Cut it again in the middle........

 

post-1282-0-57406000-1394267749_thumb.jpg

 

Clean up, sand and assemble it again with glue.........but in a different manner.......

 

post-1282-0-83247200-1394267772_thumb.jpg

 

Attach to a spare low platform to possibly serve as a small tram station.....

 

post-1282-0-97434500-1394267790_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-45767000-1394267811_thumb.jpg

 

Mardon

Edited by macdon
Link to comment

any reason why you just didn't buy the long island platform ends to get the length of platform you required?  just adding one of the longs ones would've got you your 108mm extra.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Nice loop, looks like the tomytec portram takes it well! They just hate any track joints that kink vertically.

 

Jeff

Link to comment

Still working on a few structures....................

 

Made a parking structure and placed it between the shinkansen and commuter stations. Planning on a small logistics company besides it. Maybe a small office on top of the warehouse.

 

post-1282-0-17400200-1395554928_thumb.jpg

 

 

With the left over 3mm clear acrylic from the station facade build, I cut them up and built a pedestrian bridge with a walkalator between shinkansen and commuter stations.

 

post-1282-0-09750100-1395554952_thumb.jpg

 

With the rest of the clear acrylic, I built these structures........

 

post-1282-0-66340800-1395554972_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-01440800-1395554870_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-33471900-1395554888_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-49289500-1395554906_thumb.jpg

 

Mardon

Link to comment

Amazing Handiwork! Looking really good ¬¬

 

The last Toyoko Inn looks really good! Now to paint them into colour ¬

Link to comment

Small update.........

 

 

I had some spare double track viaducts that only required a $6 easement curves to extend the shinkansen line just a bit, so I went for it. 

 

post-1282-0-22594500-1396888586_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-80469200-1396888617_thumb.jpg

 

Kato park in front of station.....

 

post-1282-0-22053500-1396888644_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-78891000-1396888668_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-96954400-1396888692_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-53929300-1396888715_thumb.jpg

 

Mardon

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Looks great! Any plans to "pave" between the rails on your tram tracks Mardon?

 

Thanks Todd.

I do have some 7mm files to try once I get the roadways and sidewalks done.

 

Mardon

Link to comment

Thanks Bernard!

 

I still havent decided if it'll be permanent as i'm still thinking of what to put in front of the station.

 

Mardon

Link to comment

Testing: Tomytec T100 Santram

 

I got this tram to possibly add to my shinkansen layout......

 

 

T100 santram out of the box...

post-1282-0-01087700-1398273299_thumb.jpg

 

TM-LRT02 power unit out of the box.......... comes with 2 square weights(?)

post-1282-0-73564800-1398273323_thumb.jpg

 

Removing the tram body shells from the plastic chassis...........

post-1282-0-50629100-1398273356_thumb.jpg

 

T100 santram on TM-LRT02 power chassis.........

post-1282-0-72481000-1398273537_thumb.jpg

 

Size in relation to tomytec centram..........

post-1282-0-25707700-1398273383_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-92963300-1398273405_thumb.jpg

 

 

The tram having 2 pivot points basically breaks it into 3 sections. Motor is in the middle section with dog bones on each end to power wheels.

The slack between pivot points and weight of the center section where the motor is located - kinda lowers the tram in the middle creating a horizontal bow as if lifting both ends. 

 

Short video of the tram working the mountain on my shinkansen layout:

 

 

 

Mardon

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I'm almost certain that the bottom black ends of the power unit have to be flush with the bottom ends of the chassis pieces. That way, the bow would not be present, since under the covers the power unit still looks perfectly straight and level. Also, the weights look like they should be placed into the end sections (usually somewhere under the roof). Reassembling it correctly should sove all issues above. Sadly i can only confirm this personally when my preordered hiroshima variant arrives. (hopefully soon)

Link to comment

I'm almost certain that the bottom black ends of the power unit have to be flush with the bottom ends of the chassis pieces. That way, the bow would not be present, since under the covers the power unit still looks perfectly straight and level. Also, the weights look like they should be placed into the end sections (usually somewhere under the roof). Reassembling it correctly should sove all issues above. Sadly i can only confirm this personally when my preordered hiroshima variant arrives. (hopefully soon)

 

I've reassembled it thrice to see if I've done it correctly, but the power chassis is not straight and level. both ends have a lowered portion in the front which probably gave you the impression that the body shells still needs to be lowered down.

 

This pic shows the top chassis hitting the top of the shell.........

post-1282-0-01456100-1398280781_thumb.jpg

 

But bottom chassis can still be seen.........

post-1282-0-61817800-1398280797_thumb.jpg

 

One reason for the shell not going down is because the interior shell has a bulge of plastic in the front.........

post-1282-0-14231000-1398280854_thumb.jpg

 

To solve both problems, the 2 end shells should be moved further away from the center which clears the bulge and making the shell go down a bit. When running straight no problems, but when turning gaps between the sections will be present.

post-1282-0-69899100-1398280817_thumb.jpg

 

I thought that the bowing is due to making both end shells closer than it should be to the center and moving it further apart is the right way - it probably is. But as you can see, its already longer than when it was back in its original plastic chassis.

post-1282-0-03433100-1398280835_thumb.jpgpost-1282-0-99562100-1398280877_thumb.jpg

 

When running, maybe the gaps wont be noticeable and of course a larger curve will lessen the gap. Im sure there's a happy medium. 

post-1282-0-08855100-1398280900_thumb.jpg

Link to comment

I don't know how, but IST did manage to put it together somehow. Hopefully he can shed some light on it...

10_bennamotor.jpg

 

On the image above the tram looks more or less level and it's showing relatively little gaps going through the curves on the video.

Link to comment

Mardon.

 

you got it right but you may have to wiggle it a bit as you slide the front sections back towards the center while the bottom of the shell is level with the bottom of the mech chassis. there is about a 1-2mm jump it will make in towards the center when that little front lip of the mech slides into the notch on the inside of the front shell. when that happens you get the tight fit like ist did  in the pict above and the gap just starts to show a tiny tiny bit when view at a hard angle at the full rotation of the mech rotation points so it all looks right even on tight curves.

 

it is a little fiddly and it can also pop out pretty easily as mine did when i just knocked over on the desk and i noticed one end was then popped forward and up a tiny bit.

 

at least its way way way better than the greenmax greenmover!

 

should start seeing some hack and wacks of this mech into 5 segment trams soon!

 

jeff

Link to comment

That wiggling helped - thanks! Did you get to use the weights?

5-segment trams? I would love to see that!

 

Mardon

Link to comment

Mardon,

 

Cool, glad it worked! Thanks for mentioning the weights as mine were stuck in the bottom of my chassis box! Put them in, guess its a bit more weight over the trucks, but seeks pretty tiny ans does not even fill the space. Ill see if mathew can read the instructions when I see him Friday to see if they mention a purpose.

 

Jeff

Link to comment

Jeff - mine didnt slip out the box as well. Glad I looked inside before thrashing the box.

Just pry off the grey roof from the end shells for the weights.

 

Yeah, my guess would be more weight on the trucks for better traction since motor is in a different segment.

 

Mardon

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...