What did you order or the post deliver? (HO and other scales)

[Martijn Meerts]

Pre-ordered http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10197508, but at Keitaro's loco1hobby rather than Hobby Search. My first venture into Japanese (sort of) H0 ;)

[Densha]

Martijn,

HS says it's 1/87? But here I thought that Japanese at least stayed consistent with the 1/80 scale... now you can't combine your steam loco with 1/80 models. (at least you're supposed to)

[Martijn Meerts]

World Kougei H0m and H0j are both 1/87, so it'll be fine :)

[Densha]

I know that you can get H0m track from European manafacturers, but H0j???

[Martijn Meerts]

H0j is 12mm track, which is TT track, so plenty of that around from Tillig for example. Although, I'm also considering going the hand laid track route, just to make sure I never finish it :)

[Densha]

Aaahh right... now I get it. But now the other problem, there aren't much H0j models actually available right? :P And the price... faints.

[Martijn Meerts]

There aren't that many no, but I wouldn't need many either.. The focus would be on the forest railway (H0e) part :)

[marknewton]

Also, here's what the Tenshodo Kiro25 and the Tramway Kiha30 look like.

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

[marknewton]

Pre-ordered http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10197508, but at Keitaro's loco1hobby rather than Hobby Search. My first venture into Japanese (sort of) H0 ;)

 

A nice choice for your first HO loco, Martijn. I'm a bit pressed for time today, but I'd like to explore your ideas for a dual-gauge logging layout with you when I get a chance. I think it's an idea with a lot going for it. From what I've read, Nick Burman's suggestions are all rather good ones, too.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

[Martijn Meerts]

Sounds good, the more suggestions and ideas I get, the better :)

[upwpfan]

Jere, you're correct, you'll need to hardwire a decoder into the DF50. It should be a simple task, as the motor is easily isolated. The body is secured to the frame by six tabs, three per side. Gently spread the body at the tabs and the frame will drop out. When you remove the body you'll see a PC board on top of the frame, with the leads from the pickups attached to it. Remove the leads from the board and then remove the PC board and you'll have something that looks like the photos below:

 

 

 

It should be a simple matter to wire the decoder into the loco once you've removed the PC board. You could probably re-use the LEDs for the headlights, too.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

 

 

Mark;

 

Thank you for the explanation and pictures. What does the switch and leads on the top of the board do?

I have had no luck in getting the instruction sheet from Tomix translated just yet. Still looking for a way to do this on the cheap. Any ideas???

 

Regards

 

Jere Ingram

[Densha]

Scan it, post it on the forums and hope someone wants to help translate things... :)

[upwpfan]

Densha;

 

Not clear to me what you mean by post on "forums" Please explain. Thanks.

 

Jere Ingram

[Densha]

If you scan the instruction sheet, and attach it to a post, we can see the file too and maybe there is someone willing to help translating it. You can attach a file after clicking on "More Reply Options". You could also make a new topic and attach it to your post in there.

[stevenh]

Mark;

 

Thank you for the explanation and pictures. What does the switch and leads on the top of the board do?

I have had no luck in getting the instruction sheet from Tomix translated just yet. Still looking for a way to do this on the cheap. Any ideas???

 

Regards

 

Jere Ingram

 

 

Jere,

 

 

The leads will be the main power source off the bogies and the switch will disable the headlights.

 

You can see that the leads have clips on them and they seem to fit snugly onto the board where the notches are out.

Following the tracks on the board, you can then see how that runs to the motor and to the lights.

 

Steven.

[marknewton]

Thank you for the explanation and pictures. What does the switch and leads on the top of the board do?

 

The switch isolates the headlights. The leads or terminal posts on top of the board are presumably there to allow you to power the mechanism without it being on track, or connect an ammeter.

 

I have had no luck in getting the instruction sheet from Tomix translated just yet. Still looking for a way to do this on the cheap. Any ideas???

 

No, none. As there are diagrams showing where all the detail parts attach, do you really need a translation? 

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

Edited June 22, 2013 by marknewton

[John P Boogerd]

I just ordered two HO-scale Enoden trains made by Tramway - the type 10 and type 20.  I have never before seen them in HO scale.  I really like the Enoden layout one of the Australian modellers has that was shown in Continental Modeller last year. 

 

 http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig09/10092959a.jpg

 

 http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig09/10092960a2.jpg

[Martijn Meerts]

Mentioned it in the N-scale what did you order thread already (considering the package also contains the Tomix C61), but my H0e Kiso Forest Baldwin is on the way. I'm very curious to see the size and whether or not it's possible to fit in all the extra's I'd like to fit in ;)

[Martijn Meerts]

Baldwin just came in, looks like a really nice kit and a fun loco once done. It does have some issues though.. It's a rather strangely built locomotive, with a rather huge cab compared to the rest of the loco, which means that it's a bit rear heavy. According to World Kougei, their first version of the kit was so rear heavy that it had major traction issues. They solved that by adding an additional motor which drives the rear axle, so you end up having 1 motor for the front 2 axles, and 1 for the rear axle. The problem here is that the rear motor sticks out like a severed thumb and is clearly visible inside the cab. Usually I don't mind that much, but the cab has massive windows ;)

 

I'm wondering if I can just fill up a good chunk of the boiler with lead, leave out the rear motor, and still have it able to pull a couple of cars. It's not meant to be pulling massive strings of cars anyway. The space saved by not having the rear motor and mechanism required to mount it could probably be used instead for a small speakerbox and/or decoder.

 

I'll likely scan/take pictures of the kit soon, and post a new thread about it my H0e/H0j thread. It'll be interesting to get some ideas and views of others on things =)

[John P Boogerd]

I would like to post photos here, too, but the message form says I don't have enough space.  What am I doing wrong?

[John P Boogerd]

The two Enoden sets by Tramway just arrived and they are gorgeous - I have never seen a Tramway model before but ordered them because of comments made by some members here.

[John P Boogerd]

I just reserved the Endo JR Kiha 111 and 112 two-car diesel set at HS to be released in August - I already have the 110 single unit - these are going to look great together.

[miyakoji]

I would like to post photos here, too, but the message form says I don't have enough space.  What am I doing wrong?

I think there's a quota on uploads.  You might have to delete some of your existing photos.  Or, you could use a separate photo hosting service, although I haven't used any of those in years and I don't know which ones are still running.  I'd love to see the trains you mentioned above.

[Claude_Dreyfus]

I just reserved the Endo JR Kiha 111 and 112 two-car diesel set at HS to be released in August - I already have the 110 single unit - these are going to look great together.

 

Hmmm. They are lovely...I have a two-car version; obtained second-hand a few years back. I fancy a single car now...but boy, look at the price!

[Densha]

There's really a limit on uploads? I'd say give Martijn a shout to ask what's going on.

 

I have a complete collection of the Kiha110 series, although it's not in HO but in N gauge. :P