Tomix - New Releases

[Rod.H]

Well, using what I've got at hand after following kvp's design & the part list in the pdf, I put together the yard extension plus some of the throat. 

and couldn't get the top two tracks to line up with the bottom set though that might just due to running out of S72.5s.

 

Hmm, I'm thinking my noodling's going to have an addition of a better yard. Though, I'm debating the point of getting the extension piece due to mainly using 2-3 car DMUs.

[katoftw]

If you are building it from the non yard set pieces, it would be easier to use non WT pieces.  Add some ballast between the tracks.

[JR 500系]

Interesting concept, but these Wide track pieces takes up slightly more space than the new yard set, which makes it more attractive especially for placing in a yard in tight spaces...

 

Which again makes me wonder about the straight pieces that are being used in the new yard set.

 

The good thing about Wide pieces though, is the versatility of it, being able to attach with various fence pieces, and even convert to an overhead track, and of course banking on curves...

 

 

[Rod.H]

Most of the straight (& the C541-15) Tomix track I have is in their wide track format & as I said I used the pieces at hand that matched their parts list. The sidings the Kiha 110 is parked on and the next two down are branched wide track (plastic ballast permanently attached on one side) S140s ((S140-WP(F)(ﾎﾟｲﾝﾄ分岐用)), where the KRT6000's parked is the standard wide track S280 (S280-WP(F)), though the siding below it has the raised platforms and therefore would be plain track, to which those platforms would be clipped to. Which currently appears to be two lengths of S140-PC(F) and is consistent across the sets.

I suspect the drivers' access platform clips into the holes present in the wide track sides, I almost thought they were 35mm long, that's actually the size track used for the foot crossing.

 

 

[kvp]

5 hours ago, JR 500系 said:

Interesting concept, but these Wide track pieces takes up slightly more space than the new yard set, which makes it more attractive especially for placing in a yard in tight spaces...

Apparently the set has wide track pieces with one side of the ballast snapped off. This makes the setup above match the set. It was stated by Tomix that apart from the new crossing pieces, every piece was already available in various separate sets. This means the track layout is buildable from various pc and pc-wt pieces. Apparently the cleaning track is normal pc with the platforms next to it, while the rest is pc-wt with half the ballast snapped off and the last track has both sides of its ballast. You only need the sets for the crossings and it's cheaper than getting the parts separately.

[ronin]

I thought this looked pretty good and placed my pre-order with Amiami.  I'll let you know how it looks once I get it in.  The images don't show it, but the part numbers lead me to believe the turnouts are electronically controlled.  I certainly hope so.

 

Eric

[JR 500系]

8 minutes ago, ronin said:

I thought this looked pretty good and placed my pre-order with Amiami.  I'll let you know how it looks once I get it in.  The images don't show it, but the part numbers lead me to believe the turnouts are electronically controlled.  I certainly hope so.

 

Eric

 

Nope... they are not electronically controlled... you need to buy an additional motor to control the turnout:

 

- Manual synthetic sleeper point N - PR 541 - 15 - SY (F) x 2
- Manual synthetic sleeping point N - PL 541 - 15 - SY (F) × 3

[Optional parts]
- Drive unit for point N (F) <0107>: 5 pieces
 

These descriptions suggest that the points are not electronically controlled...

Edited September 8, 2017 by JR 500系

[ronin]

I saw that translation, but it just seemed like the cost was a bit too high for manual turnouts.  So I decided to do a search by the part number to see what came up.  When I did this, looking at part number: N-PR541-15-SY(F), I get links for the electronically controlled version.  Here's a couple of examples:

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10416020

http://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/n/1281.html

 

Let me know what you think or if I am missing something.

 

Eric

 

Oh and in the official (I believe) Tomix release sheet (link is somewhere above) it lists this:

 

＜別売りオプション＞

ギャップジョイナー：＜０１１１＞

ワイドレール・スラブレール用Ｄ．Ｃ．フィーダー：＜５５３８＞

 

So the option list, on that sheet anyway, is for a gap joiner (0111) and the wide rail/slab rail DC feeder (5538) with no mention of the drive unit (0107).

 

We'll see.  Hopefully they are already electronically controlled.  If not, I can procure some of the 0107 pieces as needed.

Edited September 8, 2017 by ronin

[katoftw]

The picture of the product show no electical cords or switches. All Tomix sets with powered turnouts have cords and switches shown.

[kvp]

Also the buffers are of the non light up type. If you want that, it's easier to just get the extension set and add the rest manually.

[bill937ca]

JR E3-700 Shinkansen

 

 

 

[Yavianice]

She's a beauty! I can't wait for it to arrive!

[TimWay4]

Looks really good, one thing i dislike about Tomix and Kato is the HUGE variety of coupling methods used, unlike here in the UK where 90% of stock uses the same coupling method. It's not a huge deal, but i still find it weird. 

[kvp]

9 minutes ago, TimWay4 said:

Looks really good, one thing i dislike about Tomix and Kato is the HUGE variety of coupling methods used, unlike here in the UK where 90% of stock uses the same coupling method. It's not a huge deal, but i still find it weird. 

There are only a few methods in use and there is only one standard one, the Arnold rapido coupler. While it's standard, it looks really bad, especially on the front of the trains, so both Kato and Tomix have developed their own more proto looking alternatives.

 

Tomix calls them TN couplers and while they may look different, there are only two types, one for the buckeye (janney) coupler also used in the USA and the schafenberg looking but more square Shibata coupler that is mostly used in Japan. Besides these, the only other couplers are between fixed rakes of shinkansens, the old hook and loop and the new clip in, which also has a power routing variant.

 

For Kato, they have their own buckeye and own shibata couplers and recently started using a new, closer coupling european style shibata variant (with a butterfly mech). For newer shinkansen and other high speed trains, they have their own close coupler, but some older shinkansen do use the classic Arnold rapido couplers. Kato also sells a magnetic operatable janney coupler to be compatible with the US market where these are common.

 

Most other companies use either Arnold rapidos or simple clip on drawbars and Modemo has their own shibata variant for their trams.

 

The different couplers represent the different technologies used in the real world, but there are also the two differnt solutions used by Kato and Tomix. Once you standardize on one variant for all your trains (like Tomix TN shibata for emu-s and rapido for loco hauled stock), then you are pretty much good. Personally i would just use rapido for everything like back in the 80-ies, but the modern close couplers make the trains look so much better that it's mostly worth it to use them.

[TimWay4]

is it really so few? it feels like the small amount of sets I have is a different coupler...though saying that I have 2 steam loco, 2 shinkansen (one is from the 80s), a Yamanote line and Fuji-san. I have considered converting them all to one type of coupler, but not sure I have the skill/patience to actually do it myself.

[kvp]

What type of couplers do you have? (could you post pictures of each type or the set numbers so we could look them up?)

[Yavianice]

There are many niche couplers out there. But here is a list of European coupler systems.

 

http://www.1zu160.net/nspur/kupplungen.php

 

though there are many more custom couplers out there. For my european models, I use a coupler which is not even listed on this page.

 

At least the 'arnold' couplers is somewhat of a standard if you purchase loose wagons or locomotives. Not like HO gauge where each brand has a different coupler by default, so you always end up purchasing other couplers.

[Wonderbolt]

I thought they only really used non rapidos on multiple units which would self contained anyway?

  US stuff seems to only exception were you can get Buckeyes or rapedos on stock but they mostly have moved to buckeyes now.

[cteno4]

5 hours ago, TimWay4 said:

is it really so few? it feels like the small amount of sets I have is a different coupler...though saying that I have 2 steam loco, 2 shinkansen (one is from the 80s), a Yamanote line and Fuji-san. I have considered converting them all to one type of coupler, but not sure I have the skill/patience to actually do it myself.

 For most of the Japanese unit trains it's not necessary to standardize couplers as they won't intermix with other equipment. Main reason to change couplers on unit trains would be for looks and or closer coupling and then you can do it by what works best for each train.

 

jeff

[Densha]

In general I agree that it's not necessary to standardize couplers. However, I would recommend standardizing for rolling stock you might want to actually couple together. For example, have all your locomotives, passenger coaches and freight cars have the same coupler for maximum compatibility. In prototype these are also interchangeable after all and it makes for great variation on your model railway as well. Another example is northern Shinkansen, where you might want to couple your JR East Shinkansen sets with other sets. There's no point in fussing about your steam locomotive not having the same coupler as a Shinkansen though.

[cteno4]

Yes sorry I didn't say the flip of the non unit trains is where you do want to standardize to get the best operations flexibility.

 

For coupling the shinkansens then its a matter of standardizing between kato or tomix for the units that couple, most that do couple to another Shinkansen (i.e. Mini shinkansens to regulars) have models with kato and tomix that have removable or retractable nose cones and pop out coupler systems but tomix and kato are incomparable wirh each other (like the rest of the train couplers on most Shinkansen and unit trains).

 

cheers

 

jeff

[katoftw]

You ain't gonna couple up 2 steam locos, 2 shinknsens and a Fujikyu train.  So why does it matter what couplers they have.  I understand you have a right to an opinion.  But I fail how said issues is really a issue.

[TimWay4]

On 9/9/2017 at 0:10 AM, katoftw said:

You ain't gonna couple up 2 steam locos, 2 shinknsens and a Fujikyu train.  So why does it matter what couplers they have.  I understand you have a right to an opinion.  But I fail how said issues is really a issue.

 

You're right I'm not, and ultimately it doesn't really matter, it is purely a preference, my background is mostly British trains in OO and N gauges, saying it was a dislike is probably overly harsh, I come from a modeling background that is a majority of one coupling type, so when I come to couple anything together I know that I push the two connectors in one manner and no matter what I'm holding, it is then coupled. My Japanese trains on the other hand:

I have a doctor yellow  (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10182068/20/4) which couples with one method

A Yamanote line (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10172477/20/2) which couples with a different method

A C11/Series 209-500 (Keihin-Tohoku Line) (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10427001/20/3 and http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10137475/20/4) which both use the method I'm familiar with

Fujikyuko (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10042185/20/4) which now i think about it is a finer version of the coupling on the C11 (it's been a while since i ran it) 

 

Like you say @katoftw I am genuinely never going to try and couple the Doctor Yellow to the  C11 for example, i'ts just multiple different couplings isn't something I've had much experience with. Hornby and Bachmann use the same type and Graham Farish and Peco use the same types and until about 2 year ago that was the sum total of my modelling experience. I must admit sometimes the couplings stump me (i'm still not entirely sure how to couple my Yamanote line train together for example) but i imagine as I keep going I'll get over it. 

 

Edited September 11, 2017 by TimWay4

[Kiha66]

The real railroads have problems with this too, and often have special cars with different couplers on each end to get around the problem if a train needs to me moved for work or shunting purposes.  I have a boxcar with this setup in case I need to do so as well.

[kvp]

Actually that's how i ended up with a kumoni pair (electric rolling stock tractors) that have rapido couplers on one end and Tomix shibata TN-s on the other, so one way or the other they could couple to most of my loco hauled and emu stock. My dmu-s have Tomix TN janney couplers, so they would still need an adapter for that. But even JNR (and later one of the JRs) has used a coupler converter baggage car just to couple different stock together in regular service as they also had the shibata/janney problem with loco hauled/DMU/EMU stock. On some of the videos, you can see old cabooses used as converter cars to move emu stock with locomotives. Japanese models are just following the prototype more closely. (adapter cars are allowed for in service trains, but add on coupler adapters are only for service movements and emergencies)

 

Btw. the european solution was to use the NEM coupler socket, so everybody could install their favourite coupler type or even drawbards for permanently coupled stock. I used this on newer british stock with alternating long and short couplers to get closer coupling on some of my N scale non kinematic equipped 3rd rail emus. On the other hand Arnold has issued the N scale Brighton Belles with nonstandard power couplers between the cars (and rapido-s on the ends) that could not couple to anything else and is more fragile than anything i've seen from Japan.