Madsing Posted October 23 Share Posted October 23 Wow, don’t worry, it really looks fantastic! I love it! Marc 1 Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 1 Author Share Posted November 1 Spent this week working on the little engine shed. Once again, created this out of styrene, but this time I scratched up the plastic even more to enhance the wood effect. While airbrushing the brown on the structure, I tried varying the amount of brown paint to make it less uniformed and I really like the result. I used various pigment powders and washes on the roof. So far this is the 2nd structure on this layout. I'm thinking about making a small wood storage shed next to the staff station? I intended this layout to be more forest vibes so there's going to be many tall trees so there's really not much real estate to fit in more buildings. 8 Link to comment
Madsing Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 It looks fantastic! Styrene is such a great material to work with. Marc 1 1 Link to comment
SL-san Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 10 hours ago, mags_minibuilds said: I scratched up the plastic even more to enhance the wood Great work with wood effect! You are a champion modeller!! Graeme 1 Link to comment
Kamome Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 @mags_minibuilds Sorry there is no WOW button. Actually there is no "We are NOT worthy" button either. I love the rust tarnished roof. Some details of the colours used and process would be appreciated. 1 Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 Thank you! After many tries I think I've finally found a formula on how to weather buildings (not trains yet, I'm too afraid). @Kamome The blue roof color was a custom mix of Vallejo Medium Blue (2 drops), Light Yellow (1 drop) and White (1 drop). With these small projects, I try to use the colors I already have and mix a custom color. This is how I weathered the roof. I used a hobby knife to cut and scrape at the paper corrugated roof for the areas where rust has eaten away. The roofing material is made out of thick metallic paper, I left the metallic side facing the inside and painted the blue on the back side. With black paint, I diluted it to make a wash. I used a paper towel and dipped it lightly in the wash and dabbed/dragged it carefully onto the roof and make sure it doesn't take away the blue paint underneath. I used Vallejo Air Burnt Umber to paint the eaten away edges. I used Model Air instead of Model Color as I wanted the paper to soak in the paint, but diluting thick paint is also the same. (Not pictured) I diluted White paint and used a brush to create the white washed areas. Then I started painting the rust with pigment powder. I don't use this dry (yet), I add a tiny bit of water and use it like a paint, so in this process I can pinpoint where the rust goes. Once it dries, you'll see the color come back and looks chalky, which is what you want. I used Bragdon Weathering System Light Rust FF-61: http://www.bragdonent.com/smpic/nweather.htm At the end I added tiny touches of red to the rust with Bragdon Weathering System Old Tuscan FF-270. The larger light rust area I added at the end with dry Light Rust pigment powder. It sounds like a lot of steps but the key is layering and having the right products. It really helped with a reference photo: https://www.baiodo.com/shop02/#cc-m-product-8349084356 9 2 Link to comment
tossedman Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 Cool! I'll have to remember to add this technique to my list of things to try. Thanks for sharing such a detailed tutorial. Cheers, Todd 1 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted November 2 Share Posted November 2 Very nice mags, thanks for doing the writeup! jeff 1 Link to comment
Kamome Posted November 3 Share Posted November 3 Thank you for the details. Very inspiring modelling. 1 Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 I've been lurking on Twitter lately to follow a few Japanese modellers that specializes in Light Railway builds. A tip that I wanted to try out was this S-shaped coupler pin. I've been using the U-shaped style but it really didn't work that well with couplers that varied in height and sometimes the coupler/coupler pins will hit and pinch each other on tight curves and derail. This S-shaped pin works rather well, moves more freely and it looks better too. 5 Link to comment
cteno4 Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 Nice, so many times such a simple elegant solution is there! jeff Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Absolutely, I was so stoked to find this tip/trick that I had to try it out right away! Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 A couple items from World Kougei (through ZenMarket) just arrived, two diesels and a speeder to add to my collection. 7 Link to comment
mags_minibuilds Posted November 13 Author Share Posted November 13 A little bit more progress on the diorama, I weathered the ballast, embedded the turntable and revisited the river embankment. The rocks on the embankment was looking a bit sparse and I also wanted to finish up the rocky terrain to where the bridges are. I made more rock castings (filled the molds halfway so the castings will be thinner) and used Sculptamold to adhere the castings and fill in the gaps. The river bed will be filled with sand and rocks so I didn't put too much time into finessing it. 9 Link to comment
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