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So you want to try Tomix FineTrack?


CaptOblivious

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There was an old pic board that had an ir sensor that you put mid loop that when tripped threw the point and reversed the current to the feeding block to the loop. I remember finding it years ago while looking for a tram pause/reverse controller.

 

should be pretty simple for an arduino with couple of relays, one to reverse power and one to throw a bcd cap circuit for the point. Delay the  so it does not throw again until the trail has cleared. a second sensor on the feeding block could grow the point back again. Do need to deal with timing or double sensors to be certain train has cleared point.

 

jeff

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Thanks @brill27mcb, am hoping someone has already set up the circuit.

 

20 hours ago, katoftw said:

@DAG Can you draw a picture of what you are trying to do?


It's just a single track line with return loops each end so train runs back and forth continuously.  Need to automate so operator not required to constantly attend to throw points

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This unit does not handle reversing loops where the feeding track”s polarity needs flipping once the train has entered the reversing loop.

 

jeff

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Theoretically, using mode 2 with feeder between the two turnouts:

* Train is put onto right loop

* Train runs to the left loop and stops because of a sensor

* Turnouts are thrown, polarity gets changed

* Train runs to the right loop, without actually changing direction, because both polarity and turnout position changed; and stops because of a sensor

* Turnouts are thrown, polarity gets changed

* Rinse and repeat

 

However I don't have any own experience with this unit. 

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I have a question about the "PC" track.  What's the difference?  I can't search for PC in the forum because it's only 2 letters.  Grrr... So far, what I've noticed is that PC is concrete ties on ballast.  These tracks also have clips built in so they stack nicely for storage.  The non-PC FineTrack seems to be wood ties on grey ballast.  They don't stack as nice.  Do they still sell both PC and non-PC?  Functionally, I suppose they are entirely the same, and both are certainly compatible with the original brown-on-brown-on-brown tracks.

 

I have all three and it irritates me.  If I ever put together a permanent layout, I'll likely try to hide my brown track in the back or in a mountain (but I have WAY too much of it), then use the non-PC FineTrack for little used spurs, and the newest PC track for mainline activities.

 

Just curious why the different types.  The variety is neat to have.

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PC is short for prestressed concrete, i.e. the material of the ties. Track with wooden ties are used to model old times, or the odd small rural line which hasn't yet had their ties replaced with the modern material.

 

Switches never have PC ties because when laying switches holes are made in the ties after laying them down, and concrete is bad for that. Therefore newer switches have ties made of a synthetic material, whereas the somewhat older ones are all with wooden ties.

 

Not all track pieces are available in both types, for instance curve radii smaller than 249 are only available with wooden ties.

 

Besides PC track and wooden tie track, there's the slab track, the wide PC track and the tram track. Tomix has a lot of options for modeling different prototypes.

Edited by MeTheSwede
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PC track also has the ability to have a track feeder clipped in from underneath.

 

The feeder is referred to as slab track feeder. As the original feeder for slab track clipped underneath.

 

Another good option if you like to hide feeders.

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After a bit I came back to this after buying some S99s and some more S72.5 
258.thumb.JPG.993ef411ffb1cd85cd565cd5f795314e.JPG259.thumb.JPG.1269b616730e1401a1770a1cd41575b4.JPG

I finally realised what I was doing wrong before, I was using the wrong direction double slip. That was causing gaps.

 

I then I'd a thought, how would this look with some signals? The addition of some S70s, the signals, and a slight track piece rearrangement, a partial signal protected junction  

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A 3-aspect signal is probably overkill there on that exit, however Tomix has yet to do a 2-aspect signal in wide track form, only fine track.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Rod.H said:

A 3-aspect signal is probably overkill there on that exit, however Tomix has yet to do a 2-aspect signal in wide track form, only fine track.

 

It's unlikely Tomix will start producing 2-aspect signals with WP/PC base. However all the bases are compatible with all the signals, regardless the signal they were bought with, so you can combine signal mast from old set (5565) with a signal base from a newer set (557x).

 

Signals sets overview

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I ordered a Kato starter as my first train set, but the My Plan DX-PC sure looks like a great way to have a ready to go interesting setup. I know connector converters exist so I’m sort of wondering if there’s some way I could add my standard oval into something like the DX set. Is there software or something where I could play around with options before I decide to order something?

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MeTheSwede
On 1/1/2024 at 1:26 AM, 100mega said:

I ordered a Kato starter as my first train set, but the My Plan DX-PC sure looks like a great way to have a ready to go interesting setup. I know connector converters exist so I’m sort of wondering if there’s some way I could add my standard oval into something like the DX set. Is there software or something where I could play around with options before I decide to order something?

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

I imagine the most practical options would be to either connect the Kato track in one place to let it form a branchline that wanders off to do it's own thing, or keep it as a completely separate loop. Other types of assembly could be made too, but the different track geometry (different lenght of straight pieces, curve radii not matching) could cause some headache.

 

The only track planning software I've ever tried is the free version of Anyrail. I found it very easy to use, but then I should add that I didn't really try to model inclines. The free version is limited to 60 track pieces. It's a bit annoying, but is possible to get around by drawing up different parts of the layout in different files, or by deleting uninteresting track pieces (e.g. there's a double track here, I don't need to see both tracks, so I would start deleting).

 

These days I have plenty of track laying around and then I find it more practical to just use my physical track to explore what I can build.

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On 1/2/2024 at 4:15 AM, MeTheSwede said:

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

 

Thank you! I've been reading more and more about this stuff each day as I wait for Plaza Japan to come back from the holiday and ship my order 😆 and I am finding myself torn on ultimately going Kato or Tomix for track. I like that the Tomix track appears smaller and seems to have a bit more variety. At the same time I'm so new to the hobby that I'm not exactly sure what size setup I want just yet. It seems you can do more with Tomix in less space?

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Tomix has way more flexibility in terms of track pieces. It's day and night comparison.

 

Kato is a little more robust. So for table play etc, Kato is better.

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disturbman
14 minutes ago, katoftw said:

Kato is a little more robust. So for table play etc, Kato is better.


That said, I have own some Fine Track pieces since 2010/11 and never had any issues with them. But I don't assemble/disassemble track everyday, in any case, they have proven to be very robust. 

Edited by disturbman
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This is an eternal toss up! Luckily you are in good shape whichever way you choose!

 

as Kato notes there are more choices for track with Tomix. One other difference is track spacing 33mm for Kato and 37mm for Tomix.

 

both have tight radius curves as well so you can fit in small layout about the same. Tomix does have the very sharp mini points, but those are for mostly smaller equipment (along with the mini radius curves).

 

jeff

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VentureForth
On 1/3/2024 at 12:22 PM, 100mega said:

 

Thank you! I've been reading more and more about this stuff each day as I wait for Plaza Japan to come back from the holiday and ship my order 😆 and I am finding myself torn on ultimately going Kato or Tomix for track. I like that the Tomix track appears smaller and seems to have a bit more variety. At the same time I'm so new to the hobby that I'm not exactly sure what size setup I want just yet. It seems you can do more with Tomix in less space?

 

Hi 100mega,

 

I think that Kato has equal quality and variety to track that Tomix has.  I think that the best benefit for you, being in the US, is to start with and stick with Kato.  You can get Kato track from just about any model railroad store.

 

When I was 12, I was living in Japan and my dad built a train set for me for Christmas.  Nailed down on a 4x8 plywood and everything.  Weirdly, he used Kato, Tomix and Atlas.  Where he found all that, I'll never know.  Probably got it all second hand.  Even had the Tomix-Kato converters.  That very day, I took it all apart and changed it up.  I still have nearly all my Tomix track and zero of my original Kato track.  As a result, I've been building up on Tomix ever since.  And every .. last .. piece .. has to come from overseas, whether through eBay, Hobby Search or going over there and getting it myself.  Meanwhile, every time I walk into a hobby shop here, Kato everywhere.

 

So, perhaps some of the coolest Kato stuff can still be acquired from Japan, but plenty - especially track - can be locally purchased.

 

Note that because of the difference in the geometry and the width of the ballast of the track pieces, ALL accessories related to track (specifically stations, platforms, etc) are only compatible with each company's respective tracks.

 

(Personally, I like the look of Tomix better, but I think Kato Unitrack has better longevity with replaceable joiners)

Edited by VentureForth
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mr bachmann
On 2/28/2024 at 7:42 PM, VentureForth said:

 

Hi 100mega,

(Personally, I like the look of Tomix better, but I think Kato Unitrack has better longevity with replaceable joiners)

 

It seems that Tomix has changed its design to enable broken track to be repaired ...

both tram and train are updated . on the right is replicable joiner . 

IMG_3686.JPG

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katoftw

Been like that for 3 plus years. I only started using Tomix 3 years ago. All my track has this.

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VentureForth

That's good to know.  I know Kato has been like that for 30+ years.  Maybe my PC track has replaceable joiners, but the legacy brown sure didn't.  More than my fair share of tabs being broken off into the female socket.  lol

Edited by disturbman
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