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Stopping Trains automatically?


Sascha

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So I'm finally in my second month of this Hobby, and had a lot of help already (thanks a bunch to everybody), so from finding out that my E259 is running the right speed to shredding my layout and making a new one because my decline was to short, I just had my second train delivered,and was wondering if there is an EASY way to make them stop automatically at a station.I know you have a tread about it that is pinned, but its the same as with my understanding of Latin. I don't have a clou what people are talking about.Do I have to build it myself( I really don't want to do that), or is there a part I can buy that does that for me?I am not planning on goin g to a competition, so it doesn't has to be super precise.  Please plain English with your choice of words, since when it comes to electronics, everything that goes beyond 'Cable' and'Plug in' is not in my vocabulary.

Thanks in advance!!

Edited by Sascha
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Sascha,

 

Unfortunately most of the simple auto stop/reverser systems are made for trams and lower speeds and many are just on/off with no acceleration or decel. The minatronics ru2-1 does have some acceleration and decel and can do 5 stops. It uses photo sensors mounted in the roadbed to detect the train. Pretty simple to wore up. It has its own power supply that shut run a 6-8 car train, but I've never tried that with it.

 

Tomix does have a pretty slick system to do some automation that's pretty much plug and play. Problem is its all in Japanese for instructions and based on the tomix controller (I think their special constant igniting system is needed for the sensors maybe, others will probably be able to verify). It can also throw some points to switch trains off a passing track and such.

 

The issue with tomix controllers is they are 100v ac so in the us you should use a drop down transformer to move us 110-120 to 100v. You can buy these for $30 and just plug it into the wall and then plug the tomix controller into it. Do unplug it when not in use as many fire insurances will not cover a fire caused by an 100v device. Chances are very rare that that would happen, but they look for anything to Nix coverage sometimes so best to just unplug when not in use just so you can say it was unplugged And not the cause!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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The issue with tomix controllers is they are 100v ac so in the us you should use a drop down transformer to move us 110-120 to 100v. You can buy these for $30 and just plug it into the wall and then plug the tomix controller into it. Do unplug it when not in use as many fire insurances will not cover a fire caused by an 100v device. Chances are very rare that that would happen, but they look for anything to Nix coverage sometimes so best to just unplug when not in use just so you can say it was unplugged And not the cause!

The last 3 released by Tomix are all 100-240V, so no need for a step/drop down voltage transformer.

 

 

seems the newer tomix powerpacks are being designed for the international market.

 

N-600 unit

JP and US plug only, other markets will need plug convertor, is 100-240V input

attachicon.gif10160414a4.jpg

 

N-WL10-CL wireless unit

cord plug so changable to any market, is 100-240V input 

attachicon.gif10119049a.jpg

 

N-1001-CL

again uses similar power supply as above unit, but cannot find any pics of specs on power supply.  it does say in the description that it has a switching regulator, so should be 100-240V input also.  again has a cord plug, so changable to any market.

 

so there is no need for power convertors nowadays.

 

on a side note, the wireless units seem like a good kit with the points controllers and power adjustor features available.

Here I'll quote myself from another thread.

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/3565-any-thoughts-on-tomixs-forthcoming-power-unit-n400/

Edited by katoftw
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That's great! I missed or forgot that bit of info! Guess tomix is thinking a but more world wide maybe. Also bet that the 100-240 parts are very standard now.

 

Jeff

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I looked up the RU 1-2. Can it be that it is only for trains that stop and than reverse direction? I'm looking to let my trains stop and than keep going the same direction.

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For analog layouts, imho the easiest way is to use the Tomix automatic operation unit. It has all the common programs with layout and sensor connection graphics in the manual and adding Tomix TCS sensors to their tracks is easy, because they just slide in (for conventional tracks) or pop under the tracks (for viaducts and streets). Dedicated sensor tracks are also available for and even easier installation. After the sensors are installed and any optional turnouts are connected, the desired program number has to be selected on a dial. This is pretty much all.

 

10040736a.jpg

 

The programs:

TO5563-1.jpg

 

I think you need program 6. For more than one station, just add a sensor to each station and connect them up in a daisy chain. (each sensor has two sockets, so they can be connected together)

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Can I use the Tomix with Kato tracks, and is this unit just for the sensors, or is it a Powerpack?

Edited by Sascha
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No, Kato tracks are not supported because Tomix TCS sensors are part of the Tomix finetrack system, and you also have to use a Tomix power pack with TCS support. The whole TCS automation is a complete system, but everything has to be Tomix, including tracks, turnouts, power pack, sensors and the automation unit. (on the other hand, for the trains the only requirement is the use of metal wheels on all axles)

 

It is possible to build Tomix compatible sensors for Kato tracks, for example by using modified diode based track occupancy sensors. I give you a circuit example for this. You have to solder the whole thing together and use small detection blocks and add diodes to the non detected blocks. Of course, you still have to use a Tomix controller and the automatic operations unit. It's possible to chain these detectors and imho you could (in theory) mix real Tomix threadle sensors and this block sensor on the same chain.

 

post-1969-0-60363700-1413216752_thumb.png

(copyright: Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 4.0)

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Thanks Cteno4. Sorry kvp. I appreciate your help but the schematics look like an alien language to me. Thanks anyways!!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm not sure you actually need a Tomix power pack/unit. I believe the Automatic Operation Unit inputs are simply variable DC for setting the maximum train speed, plus fixed DC for powering the AOU itself and the two turnout/point motors that it can control. As far as I know, the actual Tomix TCS power is ordinary fixed DC (12 volts?), but I would defer to someone who has an oscilloscope and additional knowledge. :)

 

If this is the case, you would simply need to cobble together the wiring between a non-Tomix power pack and the Tomix AOU, making sure the fixed DC polarity is correct. Having said that, I'll add that I have always gone "by the book" and used a Tomix power pack myself...

 

Rich K.

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That would work.  But you'd still need to your tomix track.  So not a option for Sacha as he uses Kato.  Anything with a power cutting switch/relay and photo sensors is the wat to go.

 

Either of the products in the thread Jeff linked to would work fine.  One has it's own throttle.  The other requires a throttle imput.

Edited by katoftw
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Ru21 is the only one I know that has the acceleration and deceleration in it. All the other system are a relay on/off. Even with trams going slower it looks a bit jerky jerky.

 

Rich, what about your guys block detection system for the tram modules, does it have acceleration/deceleration?

 

Always something I have thought to work on when I have time in retirement with an adurino and or raspberry pi system.

 

Jeff

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The Tomix TCS system works by having a central ground and two lines pulled up high on the controller side. Each direction pulls down one of the sense lines. The sensors can be connected in a chain since this is an open collector design. The output of opto isolators, ir detectors, relays and pushbuttons are all this type, so anything can be used even reed switches. The block detector above works by sensing current flowing through the block with optocouplers, so they only detect cars with power consumption, like motors and lighting. The Tomix threadle sensors work by the metal wheels closing the circuit of the tiny optocouplers in the sensor plugs. A reed switch is closed by a magnet on the underside of the train. For the block and the Tomix sensor, direction is determined by the polarity of the DC power. For DCC, both directions will be triggered by the alternating square wave.

 

Imho, i've seen an old type of Kato crossing, that had the classic threadle sensors, so the extension pieces for this might be usable as an input for the Tomix system. They were replaced by optical sensors that are DCC compatible, but i don't know if they could be hacked to work with the Tomix TCS system. If they do, they could be used as sensor tracks.

 

The miniatronics is very similar to the Tomix system, but much more limited in functionality. On the other hand, it uses track independent sensors. The only problem is that most ir sensors have the tendency to get blinded by high direct IR radiation (like halogen lights) and the more simple, unfiltered ones even by a flash or stray sunlight. (the ones using a digital code for every transmitter/receiver pair are more reliable)

 

Accidently i know that the arduino is compatible with my detector, since my club has been using a few of them with two arduinos for loop and storage yard automation during the last exhibition. (on the small single track Hungarian modules with DCC, since the big Japanese ones are still under construction) Analog acceleration and deceleration is imho best done with a pwm signal and a simple motor driver circuit. Top speed can be set by a potmeter or determined from a throttle input, while acceleration and station dwell time can also be set with separate potmeters. The arduino is actually very good at open collector digital and analog inputs and can generate a pwm signal that can be fed to a motor driver chip. For DCC, a stop generator can be used, that switches the DCC signal to an a broadcast stop command. A more advanced version of this is a stop generator that overrides any speed commands with a stop signal (just zeroes out the speed value in the speed packets), but keeps everything else, so train functions remain controllable while the trains are stopped.

 

ps: i think there might be a small market for simple automation circuits and block/point detectors (both for DC and DCC) that are pre assembled and programmed and ready to use...

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The tomix unit link to earlier I'm very impressed with.  I googled it and found some example videos on youtube.  The stopping is a little harse for high speed, but I think the person was using max speed to keep the video length as short as possible.  But the selectable sequences are great.

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