Fitting Kato Magnetic Couplings

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Afternoon all...

 

I am looking to fit the Kato magnetic couplings (11-711) to a number of my locos, including the Kato DE10. Interestingly, the couplings are of a totally different design to that on the loco - the loco couplings fitting onto a small plastic sprue, whilst the magnetic couplings fit into the coupling box which forms part of the loco bogie (obviously an older design).

 

Has anyone on here come across this, and found a solution? 

[westfalen]

The Kato 11-711 couplers are Micro-Trains No.1129 couplers designed to fit into an arnold coupler pocket.  Micro Trains 2004 couplers should just drop into the DE10.

 

I've been trying to find my DE10 to confirm this but it is hiding from me.  I know 2004s fit the DD51.

Edited March 30, 2014 by westfalen

[katoftw]

http://www.micro-trains.com/Coupler%20diagrams.pdf

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Apologies, I should have responded sooner on this.

 

I have discovered that Kato do provide the correct items- item number 28-088 - however they look nigh on impossible to get hold of. I have found someone who does supply, but cannot register as the addressee details don't allow for UK postcodes!

 

http://joshinweb.jp/train/14449/4952844191948.html

 

Cheeky favour request time... Does anyone in Japan on here have an account with these guys? If so, and they would be willing to place an order for a couple, please drop me a PM.

 

Thanks

[fumikiri]

Hi guys, any update to this problem? I have a Kato DE10 (7011-1) and would like to fit magnetic knuckle couplers to it, so shunting can be undertaken with my freight wagons which have micro-trains couplers fitted. Westfalen said that MT 2004 coupler will fit, but looking at the micro trains couplers by number list I can't see how they will fit on the 'peg' in the snowplough that the rapido coupler fits onto.

Edited February 4, 2015 by fumikiri

[inobu]

Your answer my lie in the post further below

 

Notice that the secondary couple is the same as the coupler in the procedure offered. The key lies in the ability to add or place the flat spring in the same configuration as the smow plow housing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a repost ---- Most of my image links are broken. so I fixed this one. -

 

 

If picture is worth 1000 words. Then here is 6000 words

This my DE10 which is close to the DD51 notice that I already changes out my coupler.

Look over all the steps first to get a good idea of what you are dealing with and what I did. Study it and do
a visual on your DD51.

Step 1:

The bracket here holds the coupler and connects to the body of the train. It snaps in and can be pried apart. Maker sure you pry it in the right location.



Step 2:

The bracket will pop loose and you should have it in tact. Make sure that you do not bend the gold/brass flat spring.



Step 3:

Lay it out and obsetve how it works. The crimp in the center of the flat sptngs keeps the coupler centered. The older versions were flat and sometimes did not flip the coupler back to center.


Step 4:

Prepare to change out the coupler look at it from this angle because you have to work the edge of the couple into the pin and in front of the flat spring. You do not want to force it because it will bend the spring.

comparison of both couplers


Step 5 work the coupler from an angle. You want to shimmy the first edge of the coupler, then slide it onto the pin.


Once its mounted you just have to place it back on the body.


Hope it helps

Inobu

 

Added parts list.

 

Part# 923501  Long Shank needed for some frieght cars.

 

 

 

Part # 923509

 

Part # 923520

 

 

Edited May 10, 2014 by inobu

[katoftw]

Isn't this info on the instruction/assembly sheet that comes with your model.  Yes it is in Japanese, but the pictures and part numbers are enough to piece it all together.

 

Excellent english version inobu.

[fumikiri]

Thanks guys! I received my Kato magnetic couplers today, from KatoNL, as American websites wanted nearly $100 shipping! Can't work that one out for something so light and small!

 

I fitted them to my DE10, and found that a slight tweak was required for reliable operation with Microtrains couplers. There is a very small moulding that prevents the two parts of the knuckle from opening too far. I found that this was not opening far enough for coupling and uncoupling to Microtrains couplers, so I carefully removed it to allow more movement. Now they couple reliably, and allows for delayed coupling for pushing wagons into a siding. Removal of this piece does not seem to affect the normal operation of the Kato coupler, and springs back OK. 

The copper coloured spring parts on my model were two separate pieces on top of each other. I removed one so the spring action is softer and improves reliability.

[inobu]

I guess I should clarify to the OP point.

The best solution I found was to convert to Kato's couplers. They seem to
Work better than MT couplers.

 

Edited May 17, 2014 by inobu

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Firstly, my apologies for the delay in replying.

 

There have been some interesting replies...thanks for these...however my initial post was akin to asking how to bash a square peg into a round hole, so to speak.

 

My initial issue has subsequently become moot, as I have been able to obtain some suitable couplings, with the pin fitting. My first set of couplings will fit my wagons, with their older type coupling mountings; whilst the newer couplings will go onto the locos.

 

Now time to fit them and then get the magnet fitted to the layout.

[Ken Ford]

I need to make sure I understand this correctly before I do something stupid.

 

I have a Kato DE10 and a set of Hoki2500 hoppers on the way. I would like to convert them all to magnetic couplers

 

From inobu's great posts, I think all I need to convert the DE10 is Kato part 923501. The DE10 will already have the 923509 spring and the 923520 retainer. Is this correct?

 

What are my magnetic coupler choices for the Hoki2500s?

 

Kato has so many coupler choices it's making my head spin. The good thing is that they seem to offer a drop-in coupler for almost everything, it's just a matter of identifying what part to use.

[Claude_Dreyfus]

I cannot remember the exact example, but I am in the course of fitting couplings from one of the following three Kato coupling sets:

 

11-710

11-711

11-712

 

I think the difference is in the shank length.

[Ken Ford]

Interesting - looking at pics of those it seems they are repackaged or custom Micro-Trains couplers. I wonder if they are identical to M-T's normal range?

[Claude_Dreyfus]

Could be. They do not fit enormously well, so I am sure there are some better alternatives out there.

[Ken Ford]

The more I look at Kato magnetic couplers the more confused I get.  It appears Kato has two completely separate lines of magnetic couplers - their own like #923501 shown in inobu's post, and M-T made ones like the 11-710/711/712.  I'm not a huge fan of M-T couplers, so I'd like to give Kato's own a try.

 

I'll look at the box inserts for both the DE10 and the Hoki2500s when they arrive and see if anything is suggested before I go blazing my own trail and end up in the ditch.

[Ken Ford]

I try and do a few minutes of modeling most mornings before I go to work.  Today's project was an exercise in frustration!

 

I purchased a pack of Micro-Trains 2004s for my Kato DE10.  It's been a few years since I've assembled any of these, so that was a challenge on its own.  I finally had one together and heat sealed closed.

 

I found it will fit into the DE10, but you need to narrow the back of the Micro-Trains draft gear so it fits between the Kato centering spring posts on the plow (or retainer for a warm region one) - I didn't want to cut them off, besides they serve to keep the Micro-Trains box from rotating.  Now it fits, but I need to reduce the thickness of the Micro-Trains draft gear enough so everything snaps together.  I just need to find my Micro-Trains coupler gauge to see if I should take the thickness off the top or the bottom.

 

I think using the Kato couplers would have been a lot easier... I may still do that.

[Ken Ford]

I feel a little foolish - I didn't realize there were a set of non-magnetic knuckle couplers in the small parts pack with my DE10. They were nested in with the number plates and weren't obvious until I opened the bag.

 

These knuckle couplers fit right in with no drama as expected. I'm not planning on switching / shunting, so I may just go with these. They do look good.

[Ken Ford]

I did order some of the Kato magnetic couplers for my DE10, this is what I have learned.

 

I ordered the 923500 short shank couplers, but the "hose" just barely fouls on the plow of my cold region DE10.  If it were a warm region model, I think it would work fine.  This type of coupler drops right into the DE10 retaining clip and uses the stock leaf spring for centering as is shown in inobu's wonderful post above.  Due to this, I ordered a pack of the 923501 long shank couplers to use in this DE10.

 

It was good to see the 923500 in real life, because assembled it looks nothing like what you see in the bag!  Everything became clear once I started working with them.

 

So, to recap:

 

923500 - Warm Region DE10

923501 - Cold Region DE10

[Khaul]

I guess I should clarify to the OP point.

 

The best solution I found was to convert to Kato's couplers. They seem to

Work better than MT couplers.

 

 

Hi Inobu,

 

Which are the magnetic couplers shown in the picture? Are they 11-710?

 

Thanks,

 

Pablo

[inobu]

They are Kato couplers.

 

I order it from Kato USA. You need the springs too.

 

 

 

Inobu

[Khaul]

Those couplers look like part number 923500. Am I correct? Now, the million dollar question: do they fit in the standard Arnold pocket?

[inobu]

There is a bit of confusion with the part numbers. 923500 is the black short shank. 923500S is the short shank in silver. When I ordered mine the silver short shank was labeled 923502S.

 

Today 923502S is called Medium Shank silver.

 

http://www.katousa.com/images/923502.jpg

The image looks completely different than the 923502S I have.

 

923500S today looks to be what I used. 

 

Yes the couplers fit into the square Arnold housing. You have to use tweezers or the install

Inobu

Edited June 9, 2017 by inobu

[Khaul]

Thanks Inobu! Last question, hopefully. Do those couplers (923500) would fit in the bogie mounted housing pictured below? (sorry for the dodgy picture)

 

[inobu]

No problem ask away.  Yes, It looks to be the same as the koki's.

 

I notice that the spring is missing. The spring goes on the center pin. That causes the coupler to rebound to the center.

 

Inobu

[Kiha66]

I notice that the spring is missing.

 

Inobu

That looks like a Kato 702 type coupler, which actually don't use the springs. I've got dozens now from converting my stock over.