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Tomix Series165 Monteray


Lawrence

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I have one of these 3 car units which I just cant seem to get running smoothly, I have stripped it down, cleaned the worm gear, drive shafts, power bogies all to no effect.  Looking through the instructions last night I was unable to correctly identify the correct replacement power bogie for this train, can anyone help please, the set is Tomix 92207.

Thank you for any help you can give

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Hi 

 

Have you identified the Power Bogie type? I had a problem with my Tomix 475 series some years ago and purchased a separate power chassis for it. I think I purchased it from Heiko Stoll in Kamen Dortmund. Contact them through their website.

 

If it is just the bogie you need them try Hobby Search where I have been successful in getting Tomix bits in the past but you do need to be accurate as to which bogie you need. Alternatively try David at Loco1.

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Before replacing the drive, can you identify the exact problem? Like bad pickups, binding gears or something similar? Maybe it's just a lack of grease or a few particles inside the gearing. It's important, because if it's not the bogies, then you need a new drive unit or just new drive shafts.

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Hi 

 

Have you identified the Power Bogie type?

 

No, that's my problem :icon_scratch:

 

 

Before replacing the drive, can you identify the exact problem? Like bad pickups, binding gears or something similar? Maybe it's just a lack of grease or a few particles inside the gearing. It's important, because if it's not the bogies, then you need a new drive unit or just new drive shafts.

 

Just really noisy and erratic running, I did consider the shafts and gears but assumed, like Kato stock, no lubrication was required, possibly incorrectly?  I may strip it down this weekend and double check everything is clean

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like Kato stock, no lubrication was required, possibly incorrectly?

 

Yes, most tomix mechanisms need grease. Preferably a syntethic plastic friendly one, that doesn't fall apart over time. Cleaning the moving parts completly and then moving them would just damage the parts. If it's running erratically, then you should check if the motor is ok by powering it directly with a wire. If that solves the poblem, then you have dirty or bent pickups. If it's still erratic, then something in the drive train binds and that could mean a bent or broken part or a dirty drive or not enough grease. Just make sure that the pickups and the wheel surfaces don't get greasy. A noisy drive can be caused by a bent or broken cardan shaft, a bent/broken/worn worm gear or connecting cogwheel. Incorrect, missing or incorrectly set traction tires can also cause problems with electrical pickup.

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I stripped it all down last night, never taken a power bogie apart before! All the contacts were clean and grease free, two of the contact springs looked a little distorted and corroded.  I cleaned the worm drives & housings of the old grease (there was not a lot) I powered the motor direct on to the contacts and it ran like a dream.

If I cannot identify new bogies I will need to find suitable springs, there are 2 numbers on the parts sheet with the loco which come up as springs on the HS site but both are long sold out and no stock as are most of the parts for this :(

 

In the end it may be a lot easier to try and find a suitable replacement power chassis, now if I can only work out which one of those I need!!

Edited by Lawrence
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You need dt32 powered bogies and they are only a few hundred yen on hobby search. There are multiple versions, so check which one do you need. (you can comprate the photos on the site with the one you have) I can't really find a full power chassis for your train, so you should try to repair the one that you got, especially that the motor is ok.

 

ps: It would be interesting to know what caused the rust on the springs. If you didn't broke anything, then you can just clean the parts and put them together, lube them up and see if they run. Otherwise, replacing the bogies seems like a cheaper option. Just don't forget the lube next time.

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So, I stripped it right out, cleaned everything, greased the bits that needed it and put it back together, I replaced the springs with some off an old spare bogie, this thing is shining like a new pin, lubed like it just came out of the factory, wheels are clean, traction tyres seated right, no damage on any drives and it still stutters around and makes a heck of a racket.

I am beginning to give up now!

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Last ideas: You could check the motor contacts to the power bus if they are loose or the motor is installed reversed, also try turning the cardans and the motor slowly by hand to see if there is a bent or out of alignment part somewhere or if it binds in certain positions.

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Hello Mr Lawrence,

 

Do the bogies run free on their own?

 

Have you removed the wheels from the bogies?

 

BTW, I never add grease to my models.  Absolutely never.  I don't even own any grease or oil to add.

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Thanks guys, have identified the correct chassis now so will get one of them, lot less fuss.  Thanks for your help though

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When you get the new chassis can you compare the two for us? I mean just running them side by side to see if there is a visible difference between them.

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When you get the new chassis can you compare the two for us? I mean just running them side by side to see if there is a visible difference between them.

 

Certainly will

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New chassis has arrived and has been fitted, train runs nice and smooth now, the old chassis seems to have given up altogether now and may be consigned to a corner until I decided what to do with it.

I also bought the interior lighting kits for the 3 cars, fitted in the motor car okay but had to be trimmed for the 2 end cars because of the light units already fitted.  They work, albeit intermittently, I may have to strip down these chassis too and check all the electrical connections are sound.

Has anyone else had issues with the wheel back to backs on these old Tomix models or is just likely to be poor connection at the wheels?

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Has anyone else had issues with the wheel back to backs on these old Tomix models or is just likely to be poor connection at the wheels?

It's usually just too much dirt on the the pickups, but if the unit has been run way too much, there might be some serious abrasion on the pickups, in which case they might have to be replaced.

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I think I have discovered the problem!  When I took the bogies and under chassis off there were two strips of cheap horrible white metal which were the contact strips for the bogie springs and light unit from above.  I cleaned it all up, tinned the area where contact was made, then soldered two very fine pieces of armature wire from the light unit springs to these metal bars.  All the interior lighting works well now and is constant.  The light units that are fitted don't seem to illuminate until I whack it up to about 50%, I think I may be able to replace the grain of wheat bulbs with leds but mounting them may be an issues, there is also the issue of reverse operation.

Don't want to bugger up my now sweetly running train so I may just live with it for now!

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