Kato C62 Disassembly

[mattdwnunder]

I have a Kato C62 that I bought second hand with a new loco shell and tender on the way courtesy of Hobby Search.  I intend to swap the tender and loco shell to change it to a Hokkaido version (and avoid the poor modification job by the previous owner).  It runs properly so I don't need to play around with the running gear.  How do I disassemble the locomotive unit to swap the shell over?  Also how do I disassemble the tender (is it bogies only)?

 

Matt M

[mattdwnunder]

I managed to disassemble the loco and reassemble with the replacement engine unit shell and tender.  No help required any more. Matt M

[loulasalle]

Can you share with me how you did it. I have one that I bought and want to try to add DCC. But, it's discouraging when I can't figure how to get it apart with out damaging it.

 

Lou La Salle

[ZndoftheLine]

First time on JNS, found this link in a forlorn hope to assist me with my issue.  Unfortunately I don't expect this information to be any assistance with the passage of time, but it may help others.

 

Bought my DOA N Scale Kato C62 through Zen Market.   As I could not find anything online, I experimented (causing a slight crack to the front of the shell), so this should help those working on an original 203 model as well as giving others ideas regarding more later production models.

 

After removing the tender together with the lead and trailing bogie by removing and replacing the screws on the gear plate, I then removed the piston housing.

 

The cabin at the rear has the standard Kato nodules that you lift clear to enable you to tilt the cabin up, however the front boiler section of the shell is the tricky part.

 

The split metal housing has a slightly smaller extension that is nearly the full circumference of the front of the plastic boiler shell.  You need to use a very small screw driver inserted up into the point where you can see a small gap between the visible part of the metal housing and plastic shell (hence the complete removal of the separate piston hosing).

 

Using the screw driver, gently pry the plastic shell and metal housing apart, and the shell and metal housing should slide apart.  Take care that there are two additional nodules on the front of the metal housing that slide away from the front coupler plate.

 

In the photo below (best I can do), the metal housing in the top left is the one to watch for.  Above and to the right of the gears is a block, with the circular insert in question at the front.

 

Looks like the unit is still dead.  The motor is fine but thrust block gear is not meshing with the intermediate gear, so nothing is getting through to the drive gears.  Will keep trying or keep the unit for spare parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bill937ca]

To me this is the ultimate guide to Japanese N scale steam locomotives. Translate with Google Translate or similar.

 

http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~toyoyasu/index.htm

 

There is a two part article on the disassembly of the C62.  Note there is information for the old Kato C62 and the new Kato C62.  There are arrows pointing to extra pages at the bottom of the page.

 

http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~toyoyasu/tap1.htm

 

http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~toyoyasu/tap6.htm

 

 

Edited May 11, 2022 by bill937ca

[cteno4]

Holy crap batman that’s an awesome site!

 

thanks bill.

 

jeff

[Mutro]

Hi, I'm a new member and new to N scale, and hoping this site might help me to reinstall a traction band which has become dislodged from the driving wheel.

 

My steam locomotives is KATO 2017-8 JNR Steam Locomotive Type C62-2 Tokaido Type.  After several attempts to nudge the band back onto the driving wheel, it appears it would require removal of a part that protrudes below the running board so the traction band can be put in place. Being new to n scale models trains, I need a step by step process on removal of these parts.  Unfortunately, the linked site on this thread does not address my issue.  

 

Thanks very much for your help!

[SwallowAngel]

I think the best course of action would be to remove the base keeper plate:

 

Step 1: Firstly, remove the tender and the drawbar with a gentle pull. They are held in by clips and removing them is just a measure to avoid any damage to the tender, so keep them in a safe place. After that turn the locomotive upside down. Preferably you would want to use something soft like a Foam Train Service Tray to hold your model. If you dont have that, I'd recommend putting the loco on a micro fiber cloth or a thin foam sheet and hold the model

 

Step 2: On the bottom of the loco you'll find two screws. These hold the bottom plastic base keeper plate (and the bogey + trailing truck) to the model. Before removing the screws, pull the trailing truck (the rear wheels under the cab) out by pulling them toward the rear. Be careful to not break the piping under the cab, just grab it and pull it straight back (again, held in by clips). Now remove the screws with an appropriate screwdriver (Don't lose them, please).

 

Step 3: The base keeper plate is now loose. Remove the plate by pulling it up from the rear and lifting it up. The base keeper has one last clip towards the front, so pull the plate up and back. The front bogey is still connected to the plate, so it falling out/getting damaged/damaging something else is still a possibility (it's connected by a spring), so be careful with it. The base keeper plate shoudl be removed now, so put it to one (safe) side.

 

Step 4: You should now be looking at the axle + bearings of the three drivers. Carefully pull the affected axle out and slip the tire back on. Be careful with the rods and valve gear, they are a complicated mess and dealing with them as a first-timer isn't something you dont wanna do.

 

Step 5: Re-Assemble the loco in reverse order. The loco repair should now be finished, Congrats!

 

(P.S.: The front handle bar on the loco is loose, maybe pop it back into place before it falls off or breaks or smt)

[Mutro]

Success!  Thanks so much SwallowAngel!  Your step by step instructions were very clear. As having never opened up a locomotive before, I was hesitant in attempting this at first.  The most difficult step was reinstalling the wheel which had become misaligned with the driving gears and the rods of the other wheels. With patience and referencing the original photo, I was able to realign and install.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 6 by Mutro

[Mutro]

For reference, here's the step-by-step process by SwallowAngel with photos from my process.

 

Step 0: Before

 

 

Step 1: Firstly, remove the tender and the drawbar with a gentle pull. They are held in by clips and removing them is just a measure to avoid any damage to the tender, so keep them in a safe place. After that turn the locomotive upside down. Preferably you would want to use something soft like a Foam Train Service Tray to hold your model. If you don't have that, I'd recommend putting the loco on a micro fiber cloth or a thin foam sheet and hold the model.

 

 

Step 2: On the bottom of the loco you'll find two screws. These hold the bottom plastic base keeper plate (and the bogey + trailing truck) to the model. Before removing the screws, pull the trailing truck (the rear wheels under the cab) out by pulling them toward the rear. Be careful to not break the piping under the cab, just grab it and pull it straight back (again, held in by clips). Now remove the screws with an appropriate screwdriver (Don't lose them, please).

 

 

Step 3: The base keeper plate is now loose. Remove the plate by pulling it up from the rear and lifting it up. The base keeper has one last clip towards the front, so pull the plate up and back. The front bogey is still connected to the plate, so it falling out/getting damaged/damaging something else is still a possibility (it's connected by a spring), so be careful with it. The base keeper plate should be removed now, so put it to one (safe) side.

 

 

Step 4: You should now be looking at the axle + bearings of the three drivers. Carefully pull the affected axle out and slip the tire back on. Be careful with the rods and valve gear, they are a complicated mess and dealing with them as a first-timer isn't something you don't wanna do.

 

 

Step 5: Re-Assemble the loco in reverse order. The loco repair should now be finished, Congrats!

 

 

 

Edited February 9 by Mutro