Sort of club for Dutch/German/Belgian members?

[Densha]

Just noticed you already need a three modules of length for a simple 2-car platform, so maybe it's that not bad.

 

[Martijn Meerts]

Yep, you basically need 1 module for the straight track, and then 1 module each for the turnouts.

[katoftw]

I hate woodworking also...

 

As for running freight, commuter and shinkansen on a t-trak layout - use the outside R315 loop for shinkansen.  And inner loop/s for others.

 

I'm running a R249 loop also, so enough for 3 trains running together.

 

If you are using the 300mm deep modules, then you can use R117, R150 and R183 curve on the inside of LRTs.

 

I'll post up some anyrail pics of module plans I've been playing with recently in a hour or so.

 

Edit//  Oops sorry, didn't read the other 15 pages of the thread.

Edited January 30, 2014 by katoftw

[Densha]

Today I was reminded of Shigetou station in Shikoku so I tried a layout based on that station today.

 

An almost exact copy of the station layout, although in reality the dead end track is only used for those small track working trains and has no platform.

 

I tried to add a depot to it, but unfortunately the depot building would only fit when put on the top, there would be too less space for it if I branched it off from the track on the other side of the island platform below.

 

Kinda off-topic, but I noticed this station ahead of Shigetou, Tosa-Kitagawa, which is on top of a bridge crossing a river. Makes for a very interesting scene.

[kvp]

I tried to add a depot to it, but unfortunately the depot building would only fit when put on the top,

 

Have you tried to branch off to the top left? A turnout should fit right after the current turnout. You would just need a little S curve to increase the distance to the mainline. But if the depot track is as long as the stub track, then it's better at it's current place, since trains can move in and out without problems. (and also makes for an interesting movement without fouling any other tracks)

 

Makes for a very interesting scene.

 

From the 3 links on the page, bridge stations over rivers seems to be common in japan (and didn't even mention Shibuya), but one inside a steel beam bridge structure and ending in a tunnel is indeed very unique. Imho it can be modelled relatively easy and a good way to make a station if otherwise there is no straight and level sections in the whole area. Addig the turn around the mountain to the other side and the river banks below with the cliff would make it even more dramatic.

 

http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/91050799.jpg

Edited February 1, 2014 by kvp

[Densha]

You mean like this?

 

Doesn't even look that bad, but takes up even more space.

[kvp]

You mean like this?

Yes. If space is really a big problem and the stub track is long enough for the trains the depot can store then your solution is much better.

[katoftw]

You mean like this?

 

Doesn't even look that bad, but takes up even more space.

Shikoku Shigetou-eki fictitious 3 depot.jpg

use a wye point instead, and that'll allow and extra 124-186mm on the top left yard area.  removing the R481 curve and the S60L.

 

also i noticed that there are some missing S64s next to some S60s.  if they aren't put in the correct locations, then the joiners aren't gonna line up correctly at the end of a module.

Edited February 3, 2014 by katoftw

[Densha]

This is better?

 

[Martijn Meerts]

Your stations are getting longer with every new design ;)

 

They're nice though, lots of space for trains and interesting operations.

[Densha]

Yeah when it doesn't fit in depth you need length, but I think they're way too long as well.

I still like my first plan the best, but the only downside is that I can't fit a station building on it. Maybe a tiny Tomytec one but a station this size needs a middle-size station building as well.

[Martijn Meerts]

Just make them bigger, like you already did in the design. There's really no problem with that.

[Densha]

Maybe you're right, but that would mean they would be around 40cm deep and about two to three modules wide. Gets quite massive if you ask me.

They're only plans now anyway.

[Martijn Meerts]

There's that.. But like we figured out before, a decent station with multiple tracks and some buildings will take up quite a lot of space. But it's usually also a focal point in a layout, so I think you shouldn't cut corners on a station unless there's really no other option.

[cteno4]

And places to store trains as well! Always good on a show layout to keep changing what is running easily and fast.

 

Jeff

[Densha]

Yeah you're right, it certainly helps for more variation on the layout, even if it's at home which it will be in first instance. I can easily fill all tracks now with the trains I have.

 

Because I'm a fan of both diesel and electric traction, I was looking for a way to do both at once. On this page I found a good idea that does the trick: http://shiagenin.michikusa.jp/n-gauge20.html (the gray thing in the top picture)

Just put the support plates for the catenary poles under the track, and depending on which you want to do you can either remove or attach the poles. Also better for cleaning and transport!

Here you can see that in some pictures there are poles and in some there aren't: http://shiagenin.michikusa.jp/n-gauge18.html

Edited February 4, 2014 by Densha

[katoftw]

or just leave the poles in.  diesels can go where electrics go.  or is that a JRF no-no?

[Densha]

But I want to be able to create the feeling of a diesel line. It's not about technical possibilities in prototype. I mean, I could let a Shinkansen be pulled by a D51 steam loco but that doesn't make sense either.

[katoftw]

It's not about technical possibilities in prototype. I mean, I could let a Shinkansen be pulled by a D51 steam loco but that doesn't make sense either.

Sounds like my son.  He get so dissappointed when I say the D51 cannot pull that line of Koki 107s along or the EF210 isn't for passenger services pulling Ohas or Ohanis or Ohafus along. haha

[ToniBabelony]

Sounds like my son.  He get so dissappointed when I say the D51 cannot pull that line of Koki 107s along or the EF210 isn't for passenger services pulling Ohas or Ohanis or Ohafus along. haha

 

No Koki 107 (rather a Koki 50000), but not entirely inaccurate ;)

 

 

Also, there is always the empty run of rolling stock transfers. Just couple a Yo8000 (or any other modern brake/crew van) at the back or front and you're done.

[katoftw]

I have a small pile of 50000s also.  But most likely converting them to grey bogies to run in a modern era layout.  Don't have the Kokifu as it doesn't fit modern.  But maybe could be used as a crossover between a modern and past era layout.

[kvp]

 

converting them to grey bogies to run in a modern era layout

You don't really have to. There are recent (post 2000) pictures of them with the old bogies or in mixed trains. The only limit is that the slowest car determines the top speed, so in a slower freight train, you can mix them with more modern cars.

[Densha]

Now that I have some more time on my hand after a very busy period, I want to start with a first module soon.

I have lots of scenery stuff laying around, even some greenery, but still need to buy that thin stuff you use as a first layer of grass and ballast (the horror).

Has anyone a recommendation as for what kind of ballast to buy? The stones need to be of a 1/150 size and I prefer a mix of lighter and darker gray because it's more realistic. Of course I can mix two bags of different colours myself as well but just asking...

 

I really have to try ballasting on an old piece of track and some cardboard before on a actual module though. What's your best way to glue ballast?

[Martijn Meerts]

http://www.floodland.nl/aim/info_rails_ballasten_1.htm

 

Some good info there, especially since you can read Dutch ;)

[cteno4]

Densha,

 

yes its something to experiment with and practice some as once its down its not easy to redo!

 

The old standard is white PVA glue diluted (drop of liquid dish detergent or some isopropanol as well to help break surface tension) and then soaked into the spread ballast. Many though have really liked using Matte Medium instead. Its a bit flexible so easier if you want to dig up a section for something and folks think it deadens the noise more. PVA glue dries really hard and many think it just transfers rail/wheel noise to the base material and can amplify it. Matte Medium also is a nice dull appearance that ballast usually is, PVA glue can sometimes give a little glossiness some hate.

 

Matte medium is basically clear flat acrylic paint base. you can get it at art supply shops. there it can be pricy and you will probably find a range of prices on different brands. some are ultra high quality for archival lifetimes and others are just pricy because that brand can demand it. we also have a cheaper version here in the states (and i think Britain) called modge podge. usually sold more in craft stores but also in art stores sometimes. used for craft decoupage and stuff. basically the same stuff. it comes in different finishes from flat to matte, to glossy.

 

some also go to the paint store and just buy a gallon of clear matte/flat acrylic house paint base w/o any tinting. some of these may have little white granules in them that is part of the house paint, but these seem to disappear mostly once dry. some let the paint sit and the talc settles out and then decant off the clear stuff to use. this is done by folks doing a lot of scenery. matte medium works great as well to paint on and then sprinkle ground foam on and then over spray with diluted matte medium.

 

lots of youtube videos out there to get some ideas from as well.

 

cheers

 

jeff