Kato transformer in The Netherlands

[Densha]

Hi there,

 

My Kato Yamanote Line E231 with M1 starter set just arrived, and as expected I can't plug in the transformer adapter in the Dutch outlet because of the difference of the plug. Unfortunately it's not the 100-230V version like some others I saw on the internet, but a 100V version. The output says AC 15V 1.5A 22.5VA. I don't really understand why it's 15V even though I read often that Kato trains are 12V. But the real question here is that I want to know how to connect the throttle to the Dutch type outlet. Does anyone here knows what I have to buy for this? The adapter has article number 22-012, if someone needs it.

 

Densha

[bikkuri bahn]

First of all, you need a step down converter: the European voltage may fry your Kato unit.  Do you really need to use the Kato transformer anyway? When I lived in the U.S., I used a U.S. transformer (MRC) rated for N scale for my Kato And Tomix trains.

[Densha]

The problem is that only converters for electricity from the US is available where I live, so I think I could buy on of them, but it's still 110V and not 100V then. I thought about using a transformer from a H0 set I have, but it has a 12V and 450mA, could I use that one temporary or is it not good for the throttle and the motor of the train to use it?

Do you know what voltage and ampere that transformer had? Also, MRC is a brand that isn't available on the Dutch market.

Does it actually matter what the ampere is?

Is there also a name for the plug that is used?

[bill937ca]

You could try contacting Modelbahn Union (aka Japan Model Railways) in Kamen, Germany.  They are a Tomix dealer and would probably deal with similar power issues.

 

http://www.japanmodelrailways.com/index.php/laden-english

[Densha]

Hmmm... I could do that, but it would be easier if there is a faster solution available. I've read about some people plugging in their Kato transformer in the US outlet, so it should be possible some way or another.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, and because of that you linked me to that page and I also came to know that that shop also stands at a exhibition in Houten in The Netherlands!

[Mr Frosty]

Is it the small black "wall wart" power supply you are referring to?

 

 

In this case, just replace the Japanese one with a suitable European alternative. Just make sure the output voltage and current rating are the same. Do you have Maplins or RS Components?

[bill937ca]

You need a transformer which will reduce the voltage from 240V to 100V as Plaza Japan explains:

 

`Important note to European / Australian customers

 

The power controller supplied with this set only works at 100 volts. European and Australian customers will need a voltage transformer which converts 240 volts to 100 volts to use this controller. A voltage converter can be purchased at your local electric store.`

 

You may have to look for transformers aimed at Japanese travelers in Europe.

[ToniBabelony]

How about you try this company?

 

http://www.ich-will-saugen.de/tv-zubehoer/spannungswandler/hq-konverter-230v-auf-110v-45w/a-11021/

 

I bought mine there, but I've never used it.

[KenS]

The output says AC 15V 1.5A 22.5VA. I don't really understand why it's 15V even though I read often that Kato trains are 12V.

 

The wall transformer for my US-spec Kato power-pack also puts out 15 volts at 1.5A (from a 120V input), and that's also what's on the input label on the back of the pack, so it would appear that's the voltage the power pack needs.  At max throttle the pack puts out about 14.8V, which is a bit more than the "12V" the output label on the pack indicates.

 

N-scale is nominally 12 volts max, but there's a lot of variation and many multi-scale power packs put out 16 or even 18 volts DC (and some are in the 20s), so most well-made trains are probably designed to tolerate that kind of voltage.  Also, you won't see more than 12V out of a Kato pack unless you turn the throttle up very high.  If you're running trains at anything approaching a realistic speed, you'll likely never see that much voltage.

[Densha]

@Mr Frosty

Yes, I'm referring to that transformer.

RS Components does have a Dutch webshop. I can't find any solution on it though.

 

@bill937ca

If I knew where to find one I wouldn't have asked my questions here.

 

@Toni Babelony

That's a 110V, and I need a 100V, right? I already saw that one on a Dutch webshop, it's about impossible to find one with 100V. And if I finally find one it has a US or UK output.

 

@KenS

The labels on the transformer says output AC 15V 1.5A and the input of the throttle the same, and the output of the throttle says DC 12V. You're right, I just didn't paid enough attention at the labels. If the throttle says output 12V it has to be save, though as you say it has some peak moments. But I assume Kato has made their trains at least tolerate the voltage of their own throttle.

[keiman]

What is the mains voltage and plug type in the Netherlands.

2 pin circular recessed plug with earth per chance? Can get you an adaptor for the mains socket to UK 3 pin if it gets you out of a jam .

[Densha]

230V and the F plug, though the "europlug" can also be used.

I can easily get a plug converter for the UK plug, if I'm right I even have one, don't know where though.

[ToniBabelony]

@Toni Babelony

That's a 110V, and I need a 100V, right? I already saw that one on a Dutch webshop, it's about impossible to find one with 100V. And if I finally find one it has a US or UK output.

 

100V or 110V doesn't really matter I think. The plug is Japanese and besides that, in the Netherlands we had a transition from 220V to 230V a some years ago and hardly anybody noticed.

[Densha]

I don't know if it matters, that's what I'm trying to find out. I don't want to have a risk that my transformer will get broken fast. Does having 10V more actually mean that only the transformer itself will have a risk or does it means that the output will change too?

Do you have a Japanese device that you have used with the Dutch electricity? If so, did it work good without having an extra transformer?

[Nick_Burman]

I don't know if it matters, that's what I'm trying to find out. I don't want to have a risk that my transformer will get broken fast. Does having 10V more actually mean that only the transformer itself will have a risk or does it means that the output will change too?

Do you have a Japanese device that you have used with the Dutch electricity? If so, did it work good without having an extra transformer?

 

 

I have a Tomix controller which I run at 110V, so far without any problems.

 

 

Cheers NB

[keiman]

10V would make no  difference at all on domestic AC.

The safety factor built into these units allow for a mains fluctuation which means it could be 100V at peak times or even 120V at off peak when every one is tucked up in bed the same applies to 240V we have in the UK can drop as low as 220V when every one puts on the kettle during the adverts when the soap opera's on TV happen.

So long  as your wall unit is within 10V of what the mains supply is supposed to be you should have no problem at all.

[Densha]

10V would make no  difference at all on domestic AC.

The safety factor built into these units allow for a mains fluctuation which means it could be 100V at peak times or even 120V at off peak when every one is tucked up in bed the same applies to 240V we have in the UK can drop as low as 220V when every one puts on the kettle during the adverts when the soap opera's on TV happen.

So long  as your wall unit is within 10V of what the mains supply is supposed to be you should have no problem at all.

I expect that the label would say 100-120V for example instead of 100V then, but I noticed some devices in my house have only 230V on the label.

But that means it would be safe to buy a transformer that transforms to the US plug and voltage? Then my last question is what wattage I do need, peak included. Would the 45W one that Toni Babelony recommended do?

[keiman]

Just looked at the one Toni linked to:

Done the Maths and that would be perfectly Adequate.

Heck even at that price I would think about having one here, in case I ever got a rogue power supply that won't work of UK power.

For the price of bottle of wine BUY IT AND Run your Train 

[Densha]

Then I'll order that one, from a Dutch webshop because that will cost less for shipping. The article number is the same, so I can be sure that it is the same.

Thanks for the help everyone!

[leon]

Another solution:

 

at http://www.n-spoorstore.nl/n-spoorstore.nl/nl/ I purchased the original Kato transformer, adapted to the dutch voltage. Model no. 22-014, see image. Everything works fine on Kato Unitram. Online ordering, fast delivered. Good luck !

 

Leon

[Densha]

I can't find the separate transformer one on that website. But an other shop wants €65 for the separate transformer (including throttle), but the M1 Unitrack set costs only €80. So that's too much to pay when I only need a different adapter (without throttle). After all I should have bought the M1 set here because of the tax and the transformer, but what is done can't be undone.

[Densha]

The transformer arrived yesterday, and today I hooked everything up and it works great! The transformer package says it can output 100-120V, though the transformer itself says 110V. But it's okay anyway. I've been playing with it for two hours or so, like a kid. That Kato throttle works very nice, it feels realistic and is pretty accurate.

[clem24]

That Kato throttle works very nice, it feels realistic and is pretty accurate.

 

LOL OK I can't possibly see how the Kato power pack can feel at all "realistic" LOL. Realistic compared to what? Accurate sure, but realistic, no way... If anything, I always felt the Kato controller felt "cheap" especially compared to stuff by say, MRC. Heck it even feels cheap next to my Tomix N-1000CL. Mine that came with my Portram is still sitting in the box LOL.

 

I just picked up a brand new MRC one today for $20, complete with momentum and brake feature. Works great on HO models... Though not so great on N. And I guess " brand new" is a relative term... This one hobby shop in town has a whole stockpile of relics from the 80s and 90s, but hey, they're cheap as hell! This one, all metal, still looks and feels like a brick ahahahaha.

[Densha]

Realistic compared to my old Trix thing as you can see in the attachment, that is just a forward and back thingy and because the Kato throttle does have a forward-stop-back throttle (it has a certain name, but I forgot it) I dare say that it is more realistic. But very realistic, that's not really true indeed. The Tomix one has an on/off switch, unfortunately the Kato doesn't have it. And it does feels cheap, but that's a different story.

[brill27mcb]

Actually, I think the Kato power pack has the smoothest, silkiest turning action on the control dial of any I have ever had. I become conscious of that every time I use it.

 

Rich K.