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[Greenmax] Tokyo Monorail 1000 Type


ToniBabelony

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I just got a notice from my wholesaler that 4 of each of the four Fujimi Monorail items (Train ends, Train middle cars, straight track and straight and curve tracks) will ship Monday SAL to BT Trains.  If you want some of these before we put them on the "shelf" let me know bob@bttrains.com. Six more are headed out later in the month when our Kato V51-V53 items hit.

 

Prices:

All items unpainted - Painted versions coming from GreenMax in the 12/2014 timeframe.

 

Four car train with ends and simple track: $37.84

2 add'l middle cars: $27.03

Straight Track (4 pieces, 5 pylons): $16.22

Curves and straights (10 straight, 10 curves, 10 pylons): $24.32

 

It looks, from the pylon shape, as if these may be double tracks.

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btw got this already been looking at ways to motorize. i can't get my hands on the world kougei unit atm so i am playing around with a tomix m9 motor will update later on which tomix track the curves are closest to tonight

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update ***

 

kk so the track is 20.5cm long and is flexible so any piece can turn but only abit for straights and you need to hold it in place while it dries.

 

there is also curved track possibly similar to a r315-15 from kato but a it lengthier.

 

although i really have no idea on what it's going to be needing as a curve to go round it smoothly.

 

it looks like it will be easy to motorise as well.

 

the tracks are double track

 

more to come in following weeks...... i really need a world kougei motor

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sorry all shit quality i know but here is my "monorail" aka thomas running on 22.5 cm of track. (my phone is still away for repair so i used a 2 megapixel old skool bberry.

 

i have started a prototype motor for the monorail using a tomix flywheel will post more details when i get to that a i need to make the train and modify it's shell. first i'm going to play with the track.

 

the corners are going to be hard but i will get this done.

 

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Using a spin-off of my Disney N scale monorail it appears the Fujimi can be powered in the same manner.  The beam is a bit more tricky than my 5mm wide rectangular beam but some 5mm OD/2mm ID ball bearings on a 2mm screw will work just fine.  I posted some drawings and photos on another monorai lthread in this forum.  Stay tuned, I plan to have the Fujimi model running in a few weeks!

 

boB

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Bob,

 

Wow! This is great!I thought you would come up with something. Your Disneyland monorails are great and seemed the the way to do it for the fujimi.

 

Thanks so much for working on this! I assume there will be a similar unpowered chassis with just roller bearings?

 

Occurs to me you may have a good market for these in Japan, not heard of a marketed solution there yet!

 

Look forward to the progress on this!

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

Edited by cteno4
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keiichi77

My sister used to be into doll houses a few years ago, the wiring for the doll houses is a flat tape that you stick on the doll house walls, ceilings, etc. then you put wall paper over them to hide the flat wire, stick your light fixtures etc through the wall paper into the wire and voila...POWER.   I wonder if this flat tape wire could be used in powering the monorail. Stick it to the sides or top of the track for power.

 

Here is a link to the stuff I am talking about  http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/dollhouse_news/FEB2009/dollhouse-lighting-kits.html

 

If I am remembering correctly the only thing that might be a problem is the tape has a thin plastic film over the top of it to prevent shorts when your crossing the wire, (like in the photo's on the link above) the film may or may not be removable. My sister no longer has her doll houses so I can't check.

 

Hope this helps, I plan on buying one of these monorail kits myself, and would like to power it eventually.

 

Jason

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Jason,

 

Yep this has been suggested here. You can get copper tape w/o a coating, but the issue with exposed copper is that ow will tarnish and loose some conductive transfer. Nickel silver would be the best. There are some square wires that might work, but may get in the ways of the steering wheels.

 

I'm interested in seeing how the copper tape might hold up though!

 

Jeff

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During the Summer 2011 Project Party, I started building my expressway (and, as is usual with me, it's still not done), using conductive copper tape to distribute power to the road segments, which are plastic structures that have copper tape on the underside for pickups, connected to the light poles.

 

The basement's not terribly damp: I have a dehumidifier that keeps it under 50% except in the worst weather, and half the year it's usually below 40%. But it's not the best environment either: I've had brass rail develop a green tarnish if left on a shelf unattended for several years.

 

After 21 months, the tape might be a little tarnished where it is exposed, but if I pick up the highway segment and move it, the lights still work.  The tape is still fairly conductive.

 

On a monorail, I'd be more worried about friction wearing through it.  I'd probably use brass strip metal, simply because it's thicker (it's more likely to corrode though).

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  On 5/15/2013 at 3:14 AM, KenS said:

Oops, forgot to include the photo, and I can't see how to attach it in edit mode.

post-228-0-32433200-1368587640_thumb.jpg

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ooohhh i just saw this! that's really nicely made! i'm making a highway soon so these ideas would be lovely!

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  On 8/6/2011 at 7:06 PM, cteno4 said:

for years i have schemed about how to power a small people mover type mono rail. i thought that perhaps using the rubber roller as in the disney tram would work the best and just battery power it and use a mini rc car control to turn it on/off at will remotely. side wheels would also be needed to keep the cars square and not rubbing on the sides of the rail as well. power could be done on the top of the mono rail with two strips of copper and brush pickups on them, but this would take a bit of work to inlay the copper strips, especially on the curves...

 

one idea was to start with one of the btrain shorty cars as many of those are closer to the small people mover carriages. then creating curved track sections would be a challenge as well.

 

biggest rub is that even with a smaller carriage version you would need a pretty big city area to run something like this and make it look right. perhaps having it run "off scene" and be hidden for a while would allow it to work better in the scene.

 

im not thinking the tgauge track idea would work. the tgauge power units have a real problem with getting enough traction to pull much, this is why you need a power car every other car in a consist. the extra weight of the bigger cars might help, but i think balancing the much wider cars will be a real problem.

 

using side magnets would also be very very difficult to get things smooth and lined up well. it would be an awfully fiddly thing to set up. trying to do levitation would really be tough. i use to do some little craft gifts with magnets and you really had to be careful of your alignment in really simple designs, doing a train would be like doing hundreds of these!

 

btw there is a mag lev supercooled model out there!

 

 

 

cheers

 

jeff

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That is so COOL!.

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