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My project begins


keitaro

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yeah 2 people aren't too strange, in this model there is not enough room to make one look like he is standing however he could be sitting.

 

i'm doing the second ginza as we speak 3 carriages to go but i think i am short some passengers.

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did a video a bit better missing 2 carriages with out passengers as i ran out.

 

I get lighting and passengers shortly in the mail so when i have those trains done i will compile a much larger video.

 

Now if only i had a bigger layour to record it on ..... "dreaming"

 

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Those passengers really make the train.  And back-to-back trains look really cool!

 

But what's with the very confused steam engine that somehow wandered onto a "subway" line?  :grin

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steam way ?

 

I don't have a subway  :sad:

 

one day .... one day  :grin

 

for now i upgrade all my models with people then after that to dcc, Hopefully by then i can get a larger layout going.

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keitaro,

 

I love the sound at 1:45 as the Ginza crosses the points.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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keitaro,

 

I love the sound at 1:45 as the Ginza crosses the points.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

 

The clickety clack?

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2 vids of my new models

 

the first one is the tomix limited edition 183 series.

 

May i say damn impressive model. The quality and detail placed into this model is outstanding.

It is the quietest model to date i have owned, to say that the wheels on the track in most cases cancel out the motor noise.

It comes with attachable nose pieces ie the ^ at the front. Stickers and has TN as standard. Including some extra detail pieces to replace on the model or add yourself i have yet to read the instructions to confirm.

 

My video really does not do this model justice.

 

 

Next is the greenmax tokyu 6000.

 

The model is a good strong build and the paint job is good in detail.

The front and rear lighting is lights only the display does not light up like in some recent Kato subway models.

The model runs smooth and is actually not too bad for noise compared to other GM models i have compared to my kintetsu and my toei 5000 it does seem a little quieter.

The model can hold tn couplers however the motor car likely cannot, I have had this same issue on my Toei 5000 where i thought i could add them on as the clip is there and file away the arnold bit attached to the trucks. BIG NO NO!

 

So i will not attempt to do so.

Uses the regular dual motor config as per most recent completed models from GM

Includes Stickers, a few spare parts and gates to put on the platform!

 

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next up my MA Nankai 20000

 

Well had a bit of dramas i thought it was a new motor type that required higher voltage. However this was not the case one of the shafts between the bogie and the flywheel  was not connected.

Real pain in the ass to connect in!!!!

 

the video is before realising this and fixing it i guess it fell out in the mail on route.

Anyway it's as good as i was hoping it to be and it comes with those strange couplers again to replace the arnold ones with.

 

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i made my kotoden 1300 model from gm.

 

I'll be honest and say i did a shit job......

 

I got glue on the windows at front of 1 cab and finger print marks of gue on the side window.

 

Still from a distance you cannot tell so it's not too bad i guess.

 

I have yet to get the collector plates for the rear cab as HS do not have them in stock for over 1 year now..

 

I will pick some up in jpn at there store as well as a spare motor or 2 from them. As this uses the same motor as my MA 5000 toei subway and i broke a motor unit on 1 of the sets.

 

I know know you can buy the motor seperately but only at stores for some reason MA do not sell this motor to retailers.

 

I also found this is the same for some of their models you just cannot get it from anyone except the official self owned GM stores.

 

anyway here is a quick video.

 

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Keitaro!

 

Nice model. Was it prepainted or did you paint it

 

If the glue bothers you you cac sand it down with 400 grit sand paper, then 800 (or better 1200) and then polish it clear with clear plastic polish. They sell the plastic polish for car lights and for getting scratches out of CDs and DVDs. Final buffing can be done with a cloth wheel at a slower speed on a root tool.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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Jeff it was a pre-painted kit. I bought the front and rear light boards and added them on.

 

i might give that a go but a bit later.

About to make a diorama and finish one of my kougei models.

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put together a video of my steamers.

 

Unfortunately some couldn't make it today. Such as my mitsui wharf (was drying the paint) and my A4 mallard and E10.

 

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I love going back to the beginning photos/videos of your layout to the most recent ones....you've really developed your skills!

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I've got to say, the MA A6880 is one of my favourite.  I love the classic '50's lines to the cab cars, and the colour scheme works really well.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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@bernard: I still havn't really fixed the damage from moving been a bit lazy but I have added a few garden beds etc.

 

@ghan: Yes i love the older stock too such better design and look then most modern day EMU's

 

I am thinking about getting a uk blue pullman from farish when it's released later this year as it has the classic look i like.

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Unfortunately I deleted my latest "Rails Of Sheffield" email, but did you see the new DMU Graham Farish are shipping?  Geez ... I'm glad I'm sticking with Japanese stock!!!

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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well just got back from japan

 

so naturaly as soon as the kids went to bed i started playing with some of my new toys *cough* i mean precision models

 

 

 

all models very impressive. though the MA c56 strugles abit at low speeds.

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Dave, is there any room for a decent capacitor in that loco?

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

 

lol nope. It took me 5 hours to get the motor in right.

 

at one point i was so frustrated i was about to start smashing the thing.

 

then i invited a friend around for 8 hours of xbox 10 hours sleep and finally after a few hours the next morning the motor was in correct not moving and could fit the shell on top with out the gear rubbing.

 

 

i could fit a small one in the cab. maybe 4mmx4mmx4mm space in side but one it would ruin the look of the loco and 2 i dare not open it up for fear of breaking it. I'm sure Marti could agree with me on this.

 

also i'm not sure what capacitor i would need.

 

The model crawls at about 1.2v and goes super fast at about 7v. so I assume I want to either have a 6v with a resistor or a 12v by itself.

 

ThoughIi am not sure would a 12v capacitor ram 12v directly in making the motor speed up when it discharges?

 

also I don't think there is a capacitor out there small enough to add enough UF to keep the motor spinning for even half a second at that size.

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A 1000uF or 2000uF might do it, but they're about 10mm wide x 17mm high.

 

I always had the same problem with my Hornby 0-6-0 and 0-4-0 over points.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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realline and kato comparison.

 

might take a bit as uploading as i post this.

 

Basicly comparing my realline 2009 release with kato 2012 d51 standard form. Detail and running comparison.

 

Still think realline are worth the money hope they are not going backrupt and release some new models soon.

 

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keitaro,

 

Which was on the outside track?  Did you notice the jerkiness at around 2:18 on the video as the loco enters the curve after the LH turnout?  I couldn't see the same on the other loco.  Are the tenders coupled differently?  Is one manufacturer superior in this regard?

 

Cheers

 

N.

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