keitaro Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 hey just want peoples opinions been reviewing my layout and i have come a spot on my yard i was planning where i have to use 2 c243-15 curves this makes a large separation between the track however i was wondering if i were to use 1 c140 - 30 piece if you think it will cause derails on the train even if it's going to be going slow anyway due to parking? https://www.hwjapan.com/sh/TOX1112.aspx Link to comment
David Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 What trains do you intend to run? Except for trams, most trains can't navigate a R140 curve (the trucks bind), even a 30 degree one. Even the R177 mini curve is difficult or impossible for a lot of modern models. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 well it was going to be a diesel undecided loco pulling about 6 freight cars. the red circle marks him before it was a wide gap and lookes abit odd. btw this is a variant of my plan i added abit more width to the board and a tad length and added a trackfor the diesl to unload his goods trains are kiha 130 kiha 110 thomas and the diesl will be on that track as it's going to be the longest. Link to comment
David Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 What model diesel? The Kato ones won't do it, however the new Tomix DE10 is supposed to run on R140. The Kato Kiha 110 won't do it (won't do R177 either if memory serves). The Kiha 130 (brand?) might do it, but I'm doubtful. Thomas and Percy probably can. Most freight under 20m will handle R140, especially the 2 axle type. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 kiha 130 is tomix. i figured 2 in a row wouldn't but was hoping it would be able to pull it off at slow speeds with just the one oh well it can stay looking funky i guess Link to comment
bill937ca Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 You can get a good idea of what takes 103/140/177 curves from 177140103's You Tube videos. http://www.youtube.com/user/177140103#g/u Link to comment
David Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Speed isn't an issue (it usually isn't with N scale), but the extent to which the trucks can rotate in relation to the body. Ignoring coupling, most model train trucks can't rotate more then 60 degrees without hitting something else on the model and binding - the longer the body, the more the trucks need to rotate in order to navigate a tight turn. Freight trucks usually have the most give because it is just a bare truck and a coupler - the coupler hitting something like a ladder is often the limiting factor. EMU/passenger trucks usually have electrical pickup, and those pickup tabs further restrict how much it can turn. Powered trucks are the most limited - the drive shaft can only flex and stretch so much. Link to comment
disturbman Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 hey just want peoples opinions been reviewing my layout and i have come a spot on my yard i was planning where i have to use 2 c243-15 curves this makes a large separation between the track however i was wondering if i were to use 1 c140 - 30 piece if you think it will cause derails on the train even if it's going to be going slow anyway due to parking? Not related to the topic at hand but it's been a few days I'm thinking about it. Kei, I'm asking that as a human being, can you try to write like a normal person using capitals and respecting traditional punctuation rules? I'm not a native english speaker and for me most of your posts are a pain to read. Thanks. :) Link to comment
David Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I might suggest replacing your R140 switch and R140 curve with the R280 switch and R280 curve (the 3 way switch is R280 on one end too). Almost everything will run on R280 curves without issue. Link to comment
clem24 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 LOL old Bachmann locos will go around anything you throw at them hahaha. I should try my original Tomix ED62 and ED75 that Bachmann manufactured on my super-minis. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 I might suggest replacing your R140 switch and R140 curve with the R280 switch and R280 curve (the 3 way switch is R280 on one end too). Almost everything will run on R280 curves without issue. What do you think of this instead ? y turn out 280-15 http://www.hwjapan.com/sh/TOX1240.aspx Link to comment
David Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 The Y turnout works (there is also a regular R280-30 turnout). My only complaint is that some of the points need filing to make it reliable, and with the trackwork so dense it can be hard to find them. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Is that for the Y piece or the 280 - 30 I was thinking the y because the 280 is longer. I have done another design attached below using the pr 140-30 It seems better this way to me because there is a better spacing between all tracks. What do you think? Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I like Yard #2. When you look at yards on Google Earth, they look like they were made on a Friday after lunch. Few tracks terminate near each other. We tend to create formal layouts, that is, mathematically correct and aligning to a grid, not much left to chaos. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 Almost everything in aus was made on a fri afternoon hah But yeah I like it more too. Have ordered a few extra pieces to make it. When they arrive I will test both ways and see which fits best and test my trains on it of course. I just hope I can fit a diesel with 6 cars on it. I made the table yesterday but couldn't get foam... Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I just hope I can fit a diesel with 6 cars on it. Start searching the web for each car and figure it out. Don't forget to choose your bumpers and order extra feeder track on hand in case your yard needs some. I learned to day that the #4 Kato Switches (20-220, 20-221) are customizable by moving a few screws. Diagram is on the belly of the switch. Just completed a yard with 6 legs with 4 #4 switches. Cheaper to buy the siding sets rather than the switch and required pieces ala carte. Maybe my thread will help. Switches - For Multiple Diverging Tracks http://www.jnsforum.com/index.php/topic,3984.0.html Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 ahh I already have all the switches heh. I needed some 72.5's and ordered a 70 as needed. yeah I ordered awhile ago from hw and I meant to order 4 feeders and ordered 10 some how I have an abundance of feeders now 15 in total. ahahah. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 w I have an abundance of feeders now 15 in total. ahahah. I modified 2 for the auto-reverser. Removed the track power copper and mounted a photosensor in each and the Kato plug mates right to the photo sensor wires. Just barely pierce the soft plastic with a new blade and your in. The little access slots in the Kato Feeder track are great for clever little projects. Link to comment
Recommended Posts