Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Are there any good 3-way or even a 6-way switch out there for N Scale? Link to comment
David Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 6 way? Does a prototype for that exist or are do you mean something else? Tomix has a 3 way switch http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10055166 http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10055167 So does Peco. Is there a specific height (code 80, 55, etc) you where looking for? Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Thanks been all over the net looking for solutions. Probably being a little over zealous about this Tram project. Need a shelf top solution for parking 6 locos off Kato Double Track into Kato Long Engine Houses. Turntables are too deep for a shelf layout. The Tomix might just save some real estate. I can't tell from the pic is there one Tomix that favors right or left? Maybe I can make some sense out of 4 non-powered Kato #4 Switches. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 In tomix there is the 3 way set connecting them consecutively make an upside down christmas tree as I call it. tomix also offer mini 70mm? i think left and right 2 point sets and 140mm left and right 2 point sets. As well as left and right turn outs off a 280mm -45 curve. In manual and in electric. I just ordered 1 electric 3 point set for my layout I will be starting on sunday. I have not got a switch control at this time and will be using it manual for a while as I really have no idea about wiring so will play with my double track x crossover and the switch control it has before I get into wiring other ones. I will however have all the drill holes necessary for upgrading later. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I finally figured it out amongst all the chores this weekend. With 2 RH #4 Kato Switches 20221, I was able to flip them over to act as LH for the planning purposes. Kato's Track plans did help a lot http://www.katousa.com/track-plans/freight-yard.html Please post pictures of your Tomix 3-Way switch so we can all see how it really functions on your layout. Link to comment
KenS Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Although it sounds like you have a solution, one prototypical solution to a compact tram carbarn with multiple tracks is a transfer table, as used at the Toden Arakawa depot. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I finally figured it out amongst all the chores this weekend. With 2 RH #4 Kato Switches 20221, I was able to flip them over to act as LH for the planning purposes. Kato's Track plans did help a lot http://www.katousa.com/track-plans/freight-yard.html Please post pictures of your Tomix 3-Way switch so we can all see how it really functions on your layout. have not made layout yet :p I have anyrail plans will post when I am home and able to. I am building the table this sunday then from there I will be laying track i'd expect mon / tuesday to get things going as will be frying my brain with alcohol sun night hahaha my suggestion is not the most practicle but I like the way it looks. I am making a 5 car depot using 1 3 way switch however have plans for small module to hold 9 trains to go with my current plan. At a later date Link to comment
Martijn Meerts Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 For trams it's not a problem, but it's good to keep in mind that the Tomix 3-way switches have 2 different radii for the diverging tracks. - The N-PRL541/280-15 has a 541mm radius diverging track to the right, and a 280mm radius diverging track to the left. - The N-PLR541/280-15 has a 280mm radius diverging track to the right, and a 541mm radius diverging track to the left. The 280mm radius could cause problem with some shinkansen especially. Link to comment
Kabutoni Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Something I spotted on the Modellbahnmesse 2010 in Cologne last year. A TT-gauge layout with pieces of flex-track as a cheap alternative for switching between a large number of tracks. Link to comment
keitaro Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I wanted to do something like this number 1. I also had an idea for a 2 track one posted 2nd the first is 900mm x 900mm second 1000mm x 900mm i know too large for a tram but thought id'd show you and can be scaled down with shorter turnouts. Also not the cheapest way i guess Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 This link to Tomix track arrangements may be helpful, but it seems you're pretty far down the Kato route, which is more limited in turnout selection. http://www.trainweb.org/tomix/track/Snippets.htm Rich K. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I'm favoring Kato because that's the majority in the tote box. Majority rules. This little project is to house the 6 Kato Trams off the Kato Unitram track. Tomix does make some sawed off switches. Mini Electric Turnout N-PR140-30(F) - Tomix 1231 Using the #4 switches in my layout is not so bad because I do need the track spacing for the buildings. Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Yes, your Kato switches will consume more space lengthwise than the Tomix would, but on the other hand the slightly narrower track spacings will conserve some width, which seems to be your main space constraint. Rich K. Link to comment
David Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Keep in mind that you can't* chain the Kato #4 switches like AnyRail lets you. You need to use the special 60mm piece (or make your own) to get the one of the 2 diverging tracks to the minimum 25mm apart to fit the ballast. * You can do it, but you not only need to cut a notch out of one of the switches (and there in only one good place to cut it) to allow for the overlap, you also need to solder in a wire to replace the section of PCB lost (you slice off a circuit path when you cut the switch). Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 It's a basic yard consisting of a total of 4 switches coming off the double Unitram track. Yes, there will be some curves to hack to fit against the switches. Won't have to hack the switch. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Here is the Tram Yard. It's not exactly aligned to a true grid so I cannot tell how how true it is. It looks mathematically correct, and the tracks terminate inside the Engine Houses. If it's wrong, then I just don't want to be right. Because it feels so good. LOL. Link to comment
brill27mcb Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 If the trams like it, then it's right! Rich K. Link to comment
inobu Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Skipper, Something you have to take into consideration that we often over look with unitrack. The joiners can induce voltage drops. Increase the number of track sections or segments on your line and chances are you will increase the probability of voltage drops and wheel alignment issues on those segments. Maintaining proper track spacing is critical to the conducting potential of the joiners. Often just tapping on the track itself will either make or break continuity on the line. Those little tracks have the tendency to go off camber lifting wheels off the track and causing erratic operation. Although the track fits a particular line up in may not power that line up the way you want it. I ran into this issue on my layout where I had forced my spacing into a yard segment. Inobu Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I'm enjoying the food of the Gods at this hour. Hope you are, too. I suppose I can continuity test the yard as is and also add more straights to the unitram straight to test with a tram. The joiners are new and tight. A live test will reveal all. A feeder is needed for each of the 6 arms correct? Link to comment
KenS Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 That's safest, as you minimize problems. However, you can configure the #4 switches to selectively route power to only the track to which they're switched (oddly enough, you do this by moving the two screws to the "non-power routing" position). With that, a pair of feeders on the Unitram track could feed all of those sidings. I think did this in a yard on my previous layout. The risk with that is that any problem wiith one of the many unijoiners along the path can significantly lower available power. As the track ages, such problems become more likely (and scenic glue can get into the joint and interfere with conduction). Feeding each track doesn't eliminate such problems, but the fewer unijoiners between power feeds the better. Update: fixed typo. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 So, I fall in love with the yard and solder it very carefully. :) Thanks Ken for the Switch info. Didn't know that until I looked closely at the switch bottom and retrieved the package from the rubbish. Kato already had them set for Non-Power/Frog On at the factory. Is this yard Example below, are Insulated Unijoiners (24-816) required because there will be a Tram on each track? Wild West Bullets shown for reference only. Any room in this yard for a single crossover or 2 so that the double track is physically connected? Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Murphys law states that once you have completed your project, you will have realised a better way to do it again. Just bought a V4 Siding Set for additional #4 switches and then this.... Kato's Custom Shop has DCC Switches and Double Crossovers Arrrrrrgh! http://www.katomodels.com/hobby/customshop/kakou/cs_top_point.shtml Link to comment
David Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Making a DCC switch isn't very hard. I didn't see any response to my #6 guide, but if there was some interest I could post my guide to adding DCC to the #4. The switch is a lot tighter and lot more complex, but once you have it all figured out it's actually much easier to install the decoder then the #6. Link to comment
Guest Closed Account 1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Making a DCC switch isn't very hard. I didn't see any response to my #6 guide Oh you did. Once all of my Locos and Bullets are DCC then that's the very next purchase. Please start a fresh #4 switch thread when you get the time and maybe even a Double Crossover, too? Put all of your DCC projects in the Personal projects area under say "Dave's DCC Designs - Switches", so they will be easy to find. Link to comment
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