What did you order or the post deliver? (HO and other scales)

[shadowtiger25]

MORE TINY PEOPLE!!!!!!! BEND TO MY WILL AND TAKE YOUR SEATS FOR ALL ETERNITY!!!!

Frankly, a little to Victorian British for my late 1960's Japanese train, but oh well.

[Kiha66]

23 minutes ago, shadowtiger25 said:

Thats how it goes... 

I keep having older guys ask me how many of the SL I have where blown up in the war...

But its your slice of the hobby, dont let the opinions of others bother you

 

I'm actually taking a Class on East Asia currently, the post war Japan was a fun unit as the professor started talking about railways until he learned that every slide would get a raised hand from me.  He would use a lot of comments like you mentioned without any sources, and show some pictures of 'postwar trains" which I happened to actually know the specifics about.  (He had no idea that electrification of main lines started well before the war even began)   I think hes planning to ignore transport in the China section of the class after that.  😁

[Need for High Speed]

On 11/3/2018 at 11:35 PM, Kiha66 said:

 

I'm actually taking a Class on East Asia currently, the post war Japan was a fun unit as the professor started talking about railways until he learned that every slide would get a raised hand from me.  He would use a lot of comments like you mentioned without any sources, and show some pictures of 'postwar trains" which I happened to actually know the specifics about.  (He had no idea that electrification of main lines started well before the war even began)   I think hes planning to ignore transport in the China section of the class after that.  😁

Well then I am surprised the professor didn't let you get a day to talk about trains to the class that's what my teachers would have done. lol I also asked to have a day to talk about model railroading in STEM.

[GDorsett]

Would never have happened in the public schools I went to.

[Need for High Speed]

3 hours ago, GDorsett said:

Would never have happened in the public schools I went to.

I'm not in a  public school

[GDorsett]

That would explain why they can do it, then.

[Suica]

Local model railway exhibitions and markets really do bear some surprises at times.

 

I managed to find a Katsumi KuHa 181 and a MoRo 181.

I'm really not that big into H0 but I just had to get them.

[shadowtiger25]

I just received the first of several things ordered that my wallet will try to kill me in my sleep over.

The Kato Custom Shop's C56 with sound! The sound is not perfect, but I did find out on JMRI Decoder pro that it is a LokSound Vr 4.10 DCC so I can upgrade and change the sounds, as well as making everything a bit better.

Only problem is that I ordered the one with out the user installed parts on it.. But oh, well I get to become more familiar with it that way.

[shadowtiger25]

As with everything I do, I decided to be a bit extra and put a guy hanging out the window.

Saw someone do this and I just had to copy it

Edited November 22, 2018 by shadowtiger25

[GDorsett]

How is that model priced? I'd like to get one, buy after the EF510 I'm afraid of another 40000¥ model...

And what do you mean by "the sound isn't perfect"?

[shadowtiger25]

12 hours ago, GDorsett said:

How is that model priced? I'd like to get one, buy after the EF510 I'm afraid of another 40000¥ model...

And what do you mean by "the sound isn't perfect"?

Well, the chuff needed ajustment on timing, and when it goes out of the start up when moving. And the whisle has the popping noise when sustained longer than 3 seconds which is a problem that I was running into with making the files myself. 

But, I had seen a video of the C56 from the custom shop and knew about that before hand. The chuff problem is even listed on the page for the model.

I'm at work right now, but when I get gome I will take a screen shot of the lokprogramer page for chuff, because ita complex. More complex than any electric locomotive.

Watch the rods, the chuff should be synched with the movements. Twice per rotation with a 1/4 time difference for the other side. Its twice as fast. But changing some CVS in JMRI or timing in lokprogramer will solve the issue.

I have also seen a video about the one that you are looking at, and it sounds great

Sorry about the long post, but I hope that clearafies what I ment

[shadowtiger25]

Oh, I forgot. I paided $585 for it, from an eBay seller. Which is a mark up, but still. The pricing is listed on katos website

[GDorsett]

Ah, off-tuned chuff sounds...

Good luck with that. Been trying to get a Bachmann Spectrum Consolidation timed and it seems to be just a hair off every time I run it. Mainly this is due to the card not taking into account the load on the motour. One reason I like BLI models, they have a mechanism in them to syc the chuff.

And the EF510 does sound good, although is a little tinny. Will be swapping out the speakers for some Sountraxx or ESU speakers to fix the lack of bass.

[shadowtiger25]

Well, once I get a lokprogrammer device then I can change it down to the .1 second, because in the program that's how its measured. but for now I got it close with the CVs

I also plan on adding a coast mode and heavy load mode.

 

there was a guy at my last club that went through 3 models from them because that mechanism was messing up. took him 9 months and lots of talking with customer support to get one that worked. So even with those, issues can still happen

 

As for the base issue, it may just have been the person recording with a low quality microphone. I would have taken video of my c56 when I tested it if I had remembered to take my microphone with me. Ones on phones dont do anything justice.

Edited November 22, 2018 by shadowtiger25

[shadowtiger25]

Well, it took a few hours, but all the user installed parts are on

[shadowtiger25]

And I added a real coal load, to make it feel a little more real

[gavino200]

1 hour ago, shadowtiger25 said:

And I added a real coal load, to make it feel a little more real

 

 

Ah, the universal hobby tool - the nail clipper!

[marknewton]

3 hours ago, shadowtiger25 said:

Well, it took a few hours, but all the user installed parts are on

 

Looks good. And it’s character building. 🙂 

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[marknewton]

3 hours ago, shadowtiger25 said:

And I added a real coal load, to make it feel a little more real

 

That’s something I have to do with my two C56s. Again, looks good!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

[shadowtiger25]

8 hours ago, marknewton said:

 

That’s something I have to do with my two C56s. Again, looks good!

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

I have a guide over in the sceenery section. Just dont put the dust over it, just small lumps

[Welshbloke]

Just a quick question which isn't really worth starting a new topic for: Are Kato and Tomix HO knuckle couplers compatible? And do they tend to use the same minimum radius?

 

I've been watching Shigemon's channel on YouTube and am now sorely tempted by some HO stock. I have a loop of Kato HO Unitrack and just ordered a quarter circle of 370mm radius curves, much like his series of videos began with. I notice I can have unladen Tomix KoKis for about £20-£30 each but their locos are a lot more expensive than Kato, hence the question.

[GDorsett]

Define "compatible".

As in, can you run the stock together on the same train or can you swap the couplers back and forth?

If it answers your question, I've been running a Kato EF510 with a tomix double-headed couple on it and pulling Kato KoKi and WaMu cars with Kato and Kadee couplers as well as American stock with Kadee and Atlas and Bachmann couplers on them.

[marknewton]

Tomix and Kato knuckle couplers will couple to each other, but not with 100% reliability in my experience. Except for cars that form part of a fixed rake, I’ve replaced all the stock couplers on my fleet with scale-head Kadees.

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

[Kamome]

18 hours ago, Welshbloke said:

Are Kato and Tomix HO knuckle couplers compatible?

I’ve found they couple together ok when pushed together by hand but don’t couple together when shunting.

 

I’ve changed all my Kato Locos, Kokis and Takis to scale head Kadees as they look much better and give a more realistic gap between wagons. Also nice to let the wagons couple themselves with a loco doing the work.

 

The Kato stock I’ve used either #58s or #158s. The latter are a bit more expensive and have centering spring attached. Both have a medium shank and the same scale head. These are nicely molded although have a smaller knuckle spring which need some precision to replace if one pops off.

 

I originally put #58s on my Tomix Kokis too but had issues with uncoupling if the track wasn’t dead flat. If replacing with Kadee, you need an underset shank to match the included Tomix one. The Tomix Kokis come with very long couplers which look aweful in my opinion. The Tomix Kokis also flex a little compared to their Kato counterparts. I used #147 which have a larger knuckle head but I’ve not had any further issues with unwanted uncoupling. As far as I know, Kadee don’t currently produce a scale head, medium shank, underset coupler.

[Welshbloke]

Thanks all, sounds as if I can run them together then. I mostly plan a tabletop/desk playing trains sort of thing to begin with, so if they'll work as-is for a bit of shuffling around and can be upgraded with Kadees that's fine. I used to run US outline HO stock so I'm familiar with them.

 

Edit, so I just ordered a Tomix HO KoKi 200. Will probably order a Kato DE10 next week and maybe a KoKi 106. No containers yet but that should look pretty good on a shelf. Tomix quote a minimum radius rather gentler than 370mm so I'll probably need more curves, but they're not that expensive for a quarter circle. I have one of the Kato HO Unitrack starter ovals so I can run it, the snag is that loop won't fit on any table I own hence looking for some tighter curves!

Edited November 26, 2018 by Welshbloke
See above!