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Hezekiah Strawbody

Kato E5 Shinkansen

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KenS

Well it's landed in the US. As expected MB Klein has a whole pile of them (Looks like 40 basic sets and 30 of each addon). Pricing is $124 for the basic set, $284 for the whole thing.

 

I wouldn't recommend just getting the basic set (two cabs and the motor car).  It's pretty silly-looking on its own.  BTW, the add-on A set (3 car set) is the one that has the large box for the basic set, so if you like Kato's boxes, Basic+A is what you want at a minimum, which is $247 from them. For comparison, they're in-stock at HS for $197.82 for those two sets, although postage will be higher.

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rpierce000

I have five of each of the sets and will meet the MB Kline prices if you want whole trains.

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traindork

Finally, finally, picked this set up from the local hobby shop yesterday, and am very happy with it.  :grin

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linkey

I had my E5 Hayabusa since early April and it had it's first run in May 15th, having slight problems in the early running times but it run better after a few laps around the layout. Had lots of people taking photos of the E5 and is also on the Australian Japanese Model Railway Group website event photos section.

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clem24

Received my E5 the other day. Yes it DOES randomly derail. Not sure what is causing it but most of my layout is Unitrack with one small module on Flex track. I must admit, the portion of rail where it does derail is a 15 degree small radius section (R282 I think?), which is tighter than the running spec of 315. No other train, even other Kato Shinkansen, derails. Otherwise.. It's a decent looking train. Too bad the windows are so small that you can't really see inside it. Also I can't see it tilt whatsoever... The effect is extremely subtle unlike, say the Super Oozora or Super Azusa, etc... Finally, the paint. It's got *major* static cling hahaha. Every little piece of dirt/lint/hair from my carpet sticks to the bottom part (the grey part) like a magnet! But only the grey part LOL. Otherwise it's a nice looking train! Now we just need an E6...

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inobu

Did not think much about it until this picture, it shows its lines. Nice............ I like it.

 

img_154228_17774123_0.jpeg

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PhilipS

Nice design for an over the road Semi-Tractor trailer with a shorter snout.

 

I like my E5. Once you get all the wheels planted it runs whisper quiet.

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keitaro

Received my E5 the other day. Yes it DOES randomly derail. Not sure what is causing it but most of my layout is Unitrack with one small module on Flex track. I must admit, the portion of rail where it does derail is a 15 degree small radius section (R282 I think?), which is tighter than the running spec of 315. No other train, even other Kato Shinkansen, derails. Otherwise.. It's a decent looking train. Too bad the windows are so small that you can't really see inside it. Also I can't see it tilt whatsoever... The effect is extremely subtle unlike, say the Super Oozora or Super Azusa, etc... Finally, the paint. It's got *major* static cling hahaha. Every little piece of dirt/lint/hair from my carpet sticks to the bottom part (the grey part) like a magnet! But only the grey part LOL. Otherwise it's a nice looking train! Now we just need an E6...

 

Mine does not derail yet at all ever. which is amazing i push the limits with my layout too on all lengthy trains with switches after a 280mm 24 curve 70 straight then a switch.

 

I know of a complaint on mixi n scale group where one member said on his layout if the corner is not perfectly smooth at the joints the front catches and derails. i.e. where the corner joins with a straight or another corner and you rub your finger over the joint and theres about a mm~ height difference it derails. In the direction heading towards the track that is a touch higher?

 

never replicated that though as mine are all completely smooth except one spot on a straight to straight.

 

 

 

I run tomix 280 - 45 on my layout and although i don't run the e5 on that track i have before several times while running it and another train in and it never derailed.

 

Was running at 50%~ 30 mins to wear in both directions.

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linkey

The E5 Hayabusa "U2" does look really good when it runs on the layout and the good thing is the wheels are covered so when doing a photoshot of the it you can't see the wheels as much compaired to the other shinkansens, lookng forward to see how KATO will do the E6 when that will come out. I have been told by my other AJMRG members that I should buy the latest 800 series shinkansen as I have got a pretty much all of the latest JR East and JR West shinkansens.

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PhilipS

On the whole, this was a very easy install. The cab decoders were a bit tricky (I used very long-nose needle-nose model pliers, holding the decoder at a slight angle, to force it into the gap between the brass strips on the bottom of the cavity and the plastic edge). 

 

Um. Tried this many different ways still no directional lighting.  Install between which brass tabs?  Does it need an address?

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KenS

On the whole, this was a very easy install. The cab decoders were a bit tricky (I used very long-nose needle-nose model pliers, holding the decoder at a slight angle, to force it into the gap between the brass strips on the bottom of the cavity and the plastic edge). 

 

Um. Tried this many different ways still no directional lighting.  Install between which brass tabs?  Does it need an address?

 

You may need to hit the F0 function key to turn on the lights (I spent two weeks trying to find out why my first install was bad before I figured that one out). This doesn't seem to always be the case, but some decoders seem to default to having the light function "off".

 

You can't see the tabs, since they're hidden behind plastic.  Just insert it with the side that has two contact pads towards the roof of the car, and the side with four towards you (pads to the sides, not front/rear) and slide it towards the front of the slot as far as it will go, which can be tricky as you can't tell easily if you're in between the tabs, or bumping some bit of plastic.  But if you can't see the pads, it's probably in far enough. I needed to use needle-nose pliers to apply sufficient force, tweezers wouldn't do it.

 

Also, the direction of the decoder needs to be reversed between the two cabs so one will be headlights and one will be tail lights (and vice versa).  There are some pictures and more explanation on the page describing my E231 install, which is essentially the same.

 

Once in, you need to program both of them (one at a time) with the same address as the motor decoder (so each knows when the direction changes).  Also, when programming four-digit addresses you need to follow the process Don outlined in another thread, as most command stations that program decoders don't do it in a way that works for these. I've included that on my Kato DCC page, as I can never manage to find the thread when I need it.

 

And when all else fails, reset the decoder (write 8 into CV08) and reprogram the address.

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PhilipS

Once in, you need to program both of them (one at a time) with the same address as the motor decoder (so each knows when the direction changes).  Also, when programming four-digit addresses you need to follow the process Don outlined in another thread, as most command stations that program decoders don't do it in a way that works for these. I've included that on my Kato DCC page, as I can never manage to find the thread when I need it.

 

And when all else fails, reset the decoder (write 8 into CV08) and reprogram the address.

 

 

Yep. The light function was figured out on the Digitrax Zephyr real quick.  Installed a dozen decoders tonight for the show tomorrow. Mostly American stuff so I can learn to program and create a consist. All on 03 right now. Can't wait to give the DCC E5 a go. Motor is kinda noisy on the program track.

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linkey

Once in, you need to program both of them (one at a time) with the same address as the motor decoder (so each knows when the direction changes).  Also, when programming four-digit addresses you need to follow the process Don outlined in another thread, as most command stations that program decoders don't do it in a way that works for these. I've included that on my Kato DCC page, as I can never manage to find the thread when I need it.

 

And when all else fails, reset the decoder (write 8 into CV08) and reprogram the address.

 

 

Yep. The light function was figured out on the Digitrax Zephyr real quick.  Installed a dozen decoders tonight for the show tomorrow. Mostly American stuff so I can learn to program and create a consist. All on 03 right now. Can't wait to give the DCC E5 a go. Motor is kinda noisy on the program track.

 

 

 

The motor might be noisy at the beginning but it should quiet down after a few runs.

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PhilipS

Even when the motor was run for hours on DC?

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linkey

Even when the motor was run for hours on DC?

 

yeah it was a bit noisy, but afew a few laps around the layout I didn't realise that I sound had gone down to a little whirl as it went past. I know that other member of the AJMRG has his trains running on DCC and he had the same problems but the noise level does drop.

 

I don't know much about the DCC decoding but it is more of getting the motor of the train  to go at mid high speed around the layout  to get the motor stable.

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PhilipS

Ok got my E5 on dcc. Issue is directional lighting.

 

Only one cab car has red for reverse. Other one will go black in reverse.

 

Is this a cv issue?

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Bernard

The E5 Hayabusa "U2" does look really good when it runs on the layout and the good thing is the wheels are covered so when doing a photoshot of the it you can't see the wheels as much compaired to the other shinkansens, lookng forward to see how KATO will do the E6 when that will come out. I have been told by my other AJMRG members that I should buy the latest 800 series shinkansen as I have got a pretty much all of the latest JR East and JR West shinkansens.

 

I agree with your members, the 800 is a nice trains, the Tomix & Kato versions are very similar except for the couplers.

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KenS

Ok got my E5 on dcc. Issue is directional lighting.

 

Only one cab car has red for reverse. Other one will go black in reverse.

 

Is this a cv issue?

 

It might not be seated properly on the contacts. 

 

I don't think there's a CV that would have that effect, but I can't claim to be an expert.  The Kato decoders are essentially Digitrax FX3 decoders, and I don't see anything in Digitrax's documentation that would suggest there is one.

 

However, if it is a CV problem, a reset should cure it (writing 8 to CV08).

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espire

Hi folks,

 

I'm new here :cheesy

 

I just picked up a Kato Hayabusa basic set & add-on set A from a local hobby shop, and I love it! I recommend add-on set A over B to anyone who only buys only one add-on set; you get the hardback case that will fit the basic set, and you also get a second pantograph for the train.

 

I do have a question, though. When I popped open the noses to see the recessed couplers, I found a pop-out coupler on one end as I expected, but the other end of the train doesn't have a coupler in its nose. Was I supposed to get a second coupler?

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KenS

No, the nose coupler is only on one end.  That's because these run paired with one other train at most.

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espire

No, the nose coupler is only on one end.  That's because these run paired with one other train at most.

 

Ah, that's what I thought, but I didn't know. Thanks!

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linkey

No, the nose coupler is only on one end.  That's because these run paired with one other train at most.

 

Ah, that's what I thought, but I didn't know. Thanks!

The E5 Hayabusa can connect with either the E3 Komachi or the E2 Hayate Shinkansen Units and they only connect through one end. I have got all three sets and I usually have the E2 with the E3 or the E5 with the E3 just like the way they have it in JR East running.

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PhilipS

No matter what I do I cannot get directional lighting both ways.

 

One car will not have a headlight no matter if I swap decoders.

 

Can I reprogram the CV?

 

Maybe its the decoder. Any hints?

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The_Ghan

You have swapped the decoders.  Does the problem move to the other cab car when you do?  If so, I suggest you reset and reprogram that decoder in the cab that is not working.

 

Have you tested it on a DC layout with no decoders?  Put both cab cars on the same track in the same direction.  They should both show headlights or rear lights at the same time.  Do this to rule out a fault with the lighting circuit.

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Cheers

 

The_Ghan

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KenS

Don't forget to toggle F0. The default seems to be headlights off for most/all Digitrax decoders, and I can't count how many times I've been caught by that.

 

Next, reset the decoder to factory default if you haven't already (write 8 to CV08; the usual Digitrax reset). This resets the address to 3, but do your testing with that to make sure it's working before programming anything.

 

Then, check to make sure it's all the way in, and if that isn't working pull it out 1mm.  Sometimes the pad alignment isn't quite right. I've had a number of problems with decoder placement.

 

If you're getting headlights on both ends with one throttle setting and both taillights with the other (doesn't sound like your problem) then you put in both decoders in the same orientation and they need to be reversed from each other.  Pull one and rotate it 180 degress in the horizontal plane (i.e., don't flip it over, just turn it around).

 

And if all else fails, pull the decoder and check the train on a DC track to make sure the lights actually work.  If they work on DC and just won't work on DCC, it's likely the decoder, although it could be a defect in the pad placement.  You can check that by trying the car with the decoder that's working in the other end.

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