Kato Shinkansen Series 0 or 100 - Good set, easy decoder install?

[keitaro]

Where?

Oh, new to installing dcc thought I could avoid welding the decoder in.

 

Crikey! weld it in. I think you won't have a motor car if you do that, should probably solder 

 

jokes aside.

 

I'm going to be in same boat as you soon and i havn't used a solder since 2002 and i sucked at soldering then.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Meant soldering. Ha ha.

 

Get yourself a solder station so you can have some control over tip temperature.

[Martijn Meerts]

A good soldering station is well worth the cost if you're going to be soldering a lot :)

[rankodd]

I picked up a Hakko 936 soldering station for ~$90 CA on sale, and I've got to say - this thing is worth it's weight in gold. I used to suck at soldering, now it seems as if I can do no wrong. Amazing what a difference it makes over the old Radio Shack fire-stick...

 

It's discontinued now, though. The new one is the Hakko FX-888:

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4800&Page=1

 

Which looks like it ought to come in a candy wrapper.

[KenS]

For just installing decoders, I used to use a simple Radio Shack pencil.  A soldering station with the ability to maintain a set temperature does work better if you need to deal with a variety of tasks (you won't overcook a delicate part with too many watts, but you'll still have the power to heat a larger element to the same temperature).  I use a Weller WESD51 these days.  Not cheap, but I expect to use it for a long time.

 

And so far, I haven't fried anything, even some pretty delicate surface-mount components.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

I use a Weller WESD51 these days.

 

Me, too! Very reassuring to know your temperatures. It travels with me to the train shows along with several tips for different tasks. Johnny On the Spot likes to use it to fix issues that come arise.

[Martijn Meerts]

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WD2000M-Dual-Channel-Soldering-Station/dp/B0047D3RQK/ref=sr_1_128?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1308990369&sr=1-128 ..

 

I've got 3 tips for it, ranging from "bloody hell that's small" to just plain small :) The desoldering tweezer is also really handy for modifying the light boards of certain trains. Makes it real easy to flip around even the smallest SMD LEDs when needed. I solder pretty much everything with it, I've even repaired some decoders that had 1 or 2 components blown out. Soldering wires to track is also real easy and painless with it. I haven't been able to solder the World Kougei brass kits though :)

 

The best thing though, is that the pen/tweezer heats up within about 2-3 seconds, and when put back in their cradle, they immediately start cooling down. Tips can also be replaced without having to turn off the whole thing, and wait for the tip to cool down.

 

The biggest disadvantage is that new tips are insanely expensive because the heating element is in the tip. Luckily, they don't need replacement often :)

 

 

I'm thinking of getting a Weller Pyropen as well, which is a combined soldering iron and mini torch, mostly for the World Kougei kits, but it's also handy since it's a cordless soldering pen.

[rankodd]

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WD2000M-Dual-Channel-Soldering-Station/dp/B0047D3RQK/ref=sr_1_128?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1308990369&sr=1-128 ..

 

...

 

The biggest disadvantage is that new tips are insanely expensive because the heating element is in the tip. Luckily, they don't need replacement often :)

 

 

That whole thing is expensive, never mind the tips! Damn nice piece of kit, though :P

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Ok, what's the trick to separating the Kato 0 Cab Car Shells? 

 

The halves are really stuck around the lighting board.

[KenS]

I don't have one of those, but on some of my EMUs, what happens is that there's a bit of plastic on the lightboard acting as a light-pipe that sticks into a hole in the front of the shell to position it behind the windshield/signboard and this gets stuck.  My solution was to lift up the rear of the body shell barely enough to clear the end of the floor (not clearing all the seats) and gently but firmly push the shell forward a mm or two to slide it off the light-pipe.  Too much tilt and it's nearly imposible.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Lol. It's stuck on the LEDs. Oh So close.

 

Even popped off the roof trying to get to the screw holding the light board. Little bugger won't release or shatter.

[CaptOblivious]

Lol. It's stuck on the LEDs. Oh So close.

 

Even popped off the roof trying to get to the screw holding the light board. Little bugger won't release or shatter.

 

Pull out the nose cone first; it's a clip that holds the nose in place, makes it feel like it's snagged on the lightboard.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Thanks, the upper shell is really stubborn.

 

Going to Starbuck$ in the morning to get some of those green colored hole-in-the-cup plugs. Recently used one to jimmy a stubborn loco shell off a diesel and it works better than a toothpick. It's slick plastic.

[KenS]

Going to Starbuck$ in the morning to get some of those green colored hole-in-the-cup plugs. Recently used one to jimmy a stubborn loco shell off a diesel and it works better than a toothpick. It's slick plastic.

 

That's a great idea.  I'll have to pick up a few for the workbench next time I'm at one.

 

I've used 3x5 index cards, and jeweler's screwdrivers, but this seems like a better idea.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

I've used 3x5 index cards, and jeweler's screwdrivers, but this seems like a better idea.

 

Every tool has its purpose Ken. :)

[cteno4]

hmm knew there was a use for $tarbuck$, not for coffee though! not sure what the hole-in-the-cup-plug is but ill investigate, ive tried all manner of things to pry and hold open shells like that!

 

jeff

[KenS]

I go for the iced tea, actually.    But I sometimes carry a coffee or two back to the office for others.

 

On the hot-beverage cups the lid has a small oval hole for drinking.  If you carry the cup any distance, coffee will slosh out of this and get your hand wet. The plug is a bit of green plastic (looks like ABS, obviously higher-temp than simple styrene) maybe 3" (7.5cm) long that sticks into the hole and plugs it firmly.  There's usually a bin of them on the table with straws, sugar, and milk, so it's easy to pick up a few.

 

The shape is a small pointed and tapered blade that's easy to insert into the 1mm-wide hole, with a long shaft and a handle.  It does almost seem like it was designed for prying body shells apart.

[Guest Closed Account 1]

Plugs the cup and stirs coffee. And to think a customer invented this.

 

Its slick plastic. Looks gentle enough huh?

 

Both ends can be used to finesse just about anything that doesn't require the force of a 2.5 or 3.0mm flat tip screwdriver.