Koki Coupers and Springs

[CanderousGalm]

I've been upgrading my koki cars to tomix TN couplers, but after doing more research, I feel that the Greenmax knuckle couplers are more realistic. However, looking off of 1999.co.jp, there are three types of greenmax knuckle couplers, short, medium and long. I was wondering if anyone has used them and which ones would be the most realistic. In addition to that I would like to also upgrade my locomotives couplers as well. I have a mix of Tomix and Kato ones, so I was wondering which parts I would need. Someone mentioned looking at re-color for parts, but their websites displays a 404 error for me. In addition, I actually loss one of the springs while switching out the rapidos for the TN couplers. Would the correct replacement ones for the koki tomix cars be the part JC11?

 

 

 

Ko

[Kamome]

I think all lengths would fit the Tomix Kokis as they are fitted to the bogies. I tend to favour Kato knuckles (28-187, 28-188)on my Tomix Kokis due to the majority of my locos being Kato and they're generally more readily available. The Greenmax short knuckles look better and are a similar dimension with an even more scale-size head. The Re-color optional parts are to allow the use of Kato loco knuckle couplers on Tomix locos. I have not used these but instead kit-bash the included knuckle coupler housings and use Kato 11-702 type couplers. They are not as realistic looking, but do the job. 

 

In terms of what you need, it really depends on the trackwork you're trying to navigate. If you're looking for realism, then the shortest are probably what you want. I generally don't find issues with separation distance on wagons, but passenger coaches can sometimes require the longer shank options. I'm sure there are exceptions to this, but I certainly haven't come across them. I've used the Kato or Greenmax short knuckles on Tomix Chiki, Shiki, Taki as well as Poppondetta Taki and Microace Woki (limestone hoppers) without issue. The Greenmax ones have a triangular shaped T-bar (the part that fits into the coupler housing) where as the Kato ones are square. I have found the GM ones have needed some adjustment with nippers on a few installations. The Kato ones have tended to fit everything without adjustment.

 

Also be aware that the Kato and Greenmax short knuckles are not push together coupling like Rapidos as they have no moving parts. They are one solid piece of plastic which need one to be dropped in over the other to couple. If you're looking to shunt and drop off stock here and there, you may want to think about other options within the consist to allow you to break things apart if you don't want the Hand of the Overlord having to lift one end of a wagon to uncouple.

[CanderousGalm]

I see thanks. Currently where I live doesn't allow space for a larger layout so it's just tomix C280 curve tracks. So for now I'll stick to GM short and med, as I want to get more into modifying my cars, and couplers seems like a good start. Sadly, the Re-color website just doesn't load for me. I get a 404 error. Someone suggested I check their yahoo, but I'm not seeing parts other than regular Kato ones. 

 

Also yes, I do realize that the GM couplers need to be dropped in, but that does help with them not coming undone when unwanted. Trades offs to be sure.

[disturbman]

I fitted the short shank versions on mine, but I run a minimum of R340. Seeing the price of GM couplings, I think it's a good idea to get a mix of short and medium shank couplers as different cars can need different length.

For Kato, afaik, you shouldn't have to use a different coupler. The GM couplers are compatible with Kato locomotive knuckle couplers. For Tomix locomotives, you need Kato EF66 couplers and a Re-color adaptor. These can be found on YJA and are often sold out but restocked often.

I post a link which will direct you to my post about the process: https://jnsforum.com/community/topic/13533-how-did-you-improve-your-rolling-stock/?do=findComment&comment=235469

[CanderousGalm]

Got it thanks for the info and the link.