Tomix Kiha 40 (HO scale)

[Kiha66]

How are people's impressions of the HO Kiha 40s from Tomix? 

 

I'm planning on picking up the JNR color set next month but it seems unclear how difficult a DCC installation will be in this model.  The preproduction samples appear very detailed, so I'm excited for the set.

[bnicolas1987]

HI, I get the Hokkaido version this week. It is beautiful, but for DCC I need to remove the cabin interior to modify a little the LEDs, but at the moment I didn't manage ti remove this piece.

 

I'll put some pics soon.

[bnicolas1987]

Here are some pics:

 

 

As always, the motor in invisible

 

 

 

General view

 

And THE problem, at this time I still didn't manage to get the cabin off. But you have white front lights, destination light and cab light to cable at the decoder. I really need to remove this piece. (The red tail lights is a LED in the chassis)

[Kiha66]

Thank you!  What a beautiful model, I'm definitely going to have to get one now.

[bnicolas1987]

There is it, there is two pieces of adhesive tape that fix the tof of the cabine. 

 

I'll make a tutorial for DCC in a few days. 

[Kamome]

4 hours ago, Kiha66 said:

Thank you!  What a beautiful model, I'm definitely going to have to get one now.

Yep, I’m sold too on the JNR 40-2000

[Kiha66]

4 hours ago, bnicolas1987 said:

There is it, there is two pieces of adhesive tape that fix the tof of the cabine. 

 

Thanks!  This looks very encouraging.  Fingers crossed Tomix continues this line. (Kiha 47 or Kiyuni 28 sometime in the next year perhaps?)

Edited October 22, 2022 by Kiha66

[bnicolas1987]

Hi guys, the motor unit is nearly fully DCC fitted, I just have still a short-cut on a cab light. 

 

If you plan to fit a decoder in this beautiful KiHa 40, I recommend the ESU V5 as it has a lot of function output.

 

I'll do something better explained in a few days / weeks. 

 

In the toilet there is just enough space to put the decoder. 

 

Front lights, cab light and destination light 

 

Red lights and destination light. 

[bnicolas1987]

Hi guys, 

Some more pics as the KiHa is now fully DCC fitted and reassembled. 

All the lights are on a single decoder output that allow to do mostly all possible combination. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Angelbit68]

Good morning Nicolas, the Tomix Kiha 40 was excellent publication, and I would be delighted if you could disclose the continuation, i.e. the points to be interrupted on the pcb and where you soldered the DCC wires.

If so, just some photos would be fine, without text or anything else.

Thank you so much in advance.

[bnicolas1987]

Hi, It's on my "To do list", but I have too much work at the moment.

[Enson]

thanks bnicolas1987 to give me the hints of DCC the kiha40.

I am a beginner of DCC so i use extra add on PCB boards to help me on wiring cables.

 

below are my purchase list:

1. SmileSound Next18 DCC decoder (Japanese DCC decoder)

2. ExpBoard Next18 pcb for wiring the cables

3. AYA104-2 lighting conversion pcb, used to convert any headlight/tear light module to DCC

4. sugercube speaker with case

5. DCC decoder writer by Desktopstation

6.  interior  light bar

 

I bought 1-5 from desktopstation.net and they should able to ship internationally. I guess you can also ask them to load the kiha 40 sound file to the decoder so you no need to purchase the writer.

 

below are the wiring diagram (cable color is just for my reference, not standard!)

 

 

 

[Enson]

5 hours ago, Enson said:

thanks bnicolas1987 to give me the hints of DCC the kiha40.

I am a beginner of DCC so i use extra add on PCB boards to help me on wiring cables.

 

below are my purchase list:

1. SmileSound Next18 DCC decoder (Japanese DCC decoder)

2. ExpBoard Next18 pcb for wiring the cables

3. AYA104-2 lighting conversion pcb, used to convert any headlight/tear light module to DCC

4. sugercube speaker with case

5. DCC decoder writer by Desktopstation

6.  interior  light bar

 

I bought 1-5 from desktopstation.net and they should able to ship internationally. I guess you can also ask them to load the kiha 40 sound file to the decoder so you no need to purchase the writer.

 

below are the wiring diagram (cable color is just for my reference, not standard!)

 

 

 

I forgot to place the speaker in the diagram but i guess you know it must connect to SPK1 and SPK2 pin in the expboard

 

I will upload testing video soon.

[Limesimme]

It might be a sin to bump this old thread but I just got this loco and a Loksound 5 to go with it so @bnicolas1987 if you have that wiring diagram/tutorial, it would be a dream!

Edited August 5 by Limesimme

[bnicolas1987]

Hi, 

I'm really sorry, but I didn't had time yet to fit in DCC the two unmotorised unit. 

 

I'm really sorry and I'll try my best to do it as soon as possible. 

 

As I don't remember anything from the first DCC fitting I will make a better turotial.

 

Cheers.

[bnicolas1987]

Hello,

So I finally had some time to work on the Kiha 40.

 

The main job is to separate all lights on the PCBs. For this you will have to remove the cabins.

 

On the back of the PCB, juste remove the diode bridge and add two wire as in picture. This will reroute the "+" and function wire from decoder to the LED.

 

On the top of the PCB, You have to remove the diode bridge, put a wire as shown ans the function wire for the front destination light.

 

Then you have to modify the chassis PCB.

 

On the back side :

Remove the diode and turn the red LED. Remove all copper pieces and the switch from the PCB.

 

On the top side :

Cut to separe red an white lights. All the wire came from the decoder to this PCB (except for the front destination light)

 

Then you can put the decoder

 

For the unmotorised unit, the function decoder fit in the motor space. For the motorised unit, there is just enough space in the toilet.

 

 

[bnicolas1987]

I choose to use the copper pieces for interior lights to power the front destination lights.

 

Then, to add the interior light, you can take from one cabin the "+" from decoder and the function via a copper piece.

 

 

 

I hope it will help.

 

It was quite hard to fit all the wire on the decoder, it's not a job for beginners.

[Kamome]

I’ve had no luck trying to remove the cabins from mine. Could you post how they look removed so I can see where I need to be prising them out?

[bnicolas1987]

They are very hard to unlock.

 

You should "rotate" and pull very hard from the inside. (Be careful with the mobile piece for the front destination lighe, it shoul be in "back position" like the first picture)

 

 

 

 

I broke a small piece of plastic when i remove the first one.

 

Edited October 25 by bnicolas1987

[bnicolas1987]

One more picture, you have to try to unlock like this and then it comes out 

[Kamome]

On 10/24/2024 at 12:30 AM, bnicolas1987 said:

You sould "rotate" and pull very hard from the inside.

Yeah, I was concerned I was going to snap something. Taken every other cab out of every other loco and rail car to paint and add crew but this stumped me as I was pretty sure something was about to break. I will have another go as I wanted to weather mine up and I tend to add a dull coat over the body shell without the glazing in. 

 

What was it that broke off? Just so I'm aware.

[bnicolas1987]

A small PIN that maintain the top green plastic part. But I glued it and now it's all good. 

 

This afternoon I think I can manage to finish the third unmotorised unit, after I have to fit all the details parts and immatriculation.