Tyraforce Posted January 15, 2022 Share Posted January 15, 2022 (edited) I'm looking for a solution for DC Kato Unitrack to get rid of surges (or whatever you call it) when changing blocks powered by different voltage. The metal wheels of cars + lighting prep connects the two section long after the loco passed the insulator and the motor doesn't run well. I know this is usually avoided by changing the block sources so that they are powered by the same source but that's not gonna work for me. I'm trying to use a Voltage regulator to limit train speed in stations. The way I understand it, I'd need to insulate a part of the track longer than the longest car, which the loco would then struggle with. Any tips? Thx. Edited January 15, 2022 by Tyraforce Link to comment
Tyraforce Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 (edited) Problem resolved. It was caused by something else. EDIT: PROBLEM NOT RESOLVED Edited January 19, 2022 by Tyraforce Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 @Tyraforce Curious what was causing it. It’s always good to hear potential issues out there someone else may run into later. cheers jeff 1 Link to comment
Tyraforce Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 On 1/18/2022 at 8:00 PM, cteno4 said: @Tyraforce Curious what was causing it. It’s always good to hear potential issues out there someone else may run into later. cheers jeff I figgured out the power bridging problems. What confussed me was that the Glacie Express cars don't have lighting prep while all the other RhB cars do. The lighting prep includes 2 pieces of metal connecting all wheels on each side of the train thus creating a bridge that caused all the jerks while crossing to a block with different voltage. I suppose when I cut connections to one side of the train, I'll get worse lighting quality but it should get rid of most of the bridging problems. Link to comment
cteno4 Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Could look at putting a capacitor on each side to help with flicker few small tantalium caps across the power strips should help. jeff Link to comment
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