Sankakkei Railway

[Morcs]

Probably best I start a new thread for this, with construction starting on the board next week.

 

A triangular shaped layout (hence the name), based on 1200x1200 with one edge knocked off (will be an attached shelf for controls)

I wanted compact (movable, fit under a bed) but with a lot going on, including good storage and display for trains.

 

Smallest radius on the mainline is R183, and there is an R150 Turnout, though i have gone for #6's wherever possible (unitrack)

I buy all my Tomix trains as mini curve compatible so no worries there 🙂

I have refined the track plan daily for the last 3 weeks! Trying to save costs, or less pieces wasted, or to accomodate other ideas.

 

Proper urban planning will be after the track is laid, too hard otherwise!

 

Until HS are shipping again I wont have most of the stuff I need, but at least i can take my time getting the board right.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2020 by Morcs

[Kiha66]

Looks interesting!  I love all the realistic routing and siding options in such a small space.

[katoftw]

Pretty sure you need to use a R481 for the train shed for the 33mm spacing.

[Morcs]

1 hour ago, katoftw said:

Pretty sure you need to use a R481 for the train shed for the 33mm spacing.

 

It's interchangable for 49.5 and 33

[ranger10178]

Hi Morcs,

 

Looks fantastic! I like the amount of track you've squeezed into quite a limited space!

 

Something that's been bugging me is this crossover! Usually crossovers tend to be before station platforms where possible.

 

Could you not move the crossover a bit closer to avoid this? - ie swap the crossover with the pair of 124's?

 

Sorry if this comes across the wrong way...

 

Kind Regards,

[inobu]

That's a good layout design. You can add left and right wings if you want.

 

Inobu

[Cat]

That does look good!

Moving the crossover would also be practical for getting your fingers in at a likely derailment spot.

[cteno4]

You do see crossovers in japan though in the platform areas are times! That’s what’s fun with japan, always a prototype!

 

jeff

[Morcs]

10 hours ago, ranger10178 said:

Hi Morcs,

 

Looks fantastic! I like the amount of track you've squeezed into quite a limited space!

 

Something that's been bugging me is this crossover! Usually crossovers tend to be before station platforms where possible.

 

Could you not move the crossover a bit closer to avoid this? - ie swap the crossover with the pair of 124's?

 

Sorry if this comes across the wrong way...

 

Kind Regards,

Could do, there's actually a #6 platform end In that gap (hard to draw in scarm)

I suppose it can go anywhere, but given that it's a #4 nearer the front is better if it plays up 🙂

[ranger10178]

Ahhh okay, so it'd still be within the platform!

 

I feel it would still make sense to be closer to the end of the platform as it will allow a longer train to be accommodated within the platform without fouling the points.

[inobu]

3 hours ago, cteno4 said:

You do see crossovers in japan though in the platform areas are times! That’s what’s fun with japan, always a prototype!

 

jeff

 

lol so true

[katoftw]

I would move it to the top right hand straight.

[Morcs]

40 minutes ago, katoftw said:

I would move it to the top right hand straight.

I had it there originally, but the concrete ties on the single crossovers make it a mismatch, by putting it where it is, i can have other concrete tie double track inc feeder to be matchy matchy.

Ive shuffled it to be straight after the #6s along the front left

 🙂

Also just figured i should use open pit track for the loco shed. 

 

Also the area in front of the main station will be a freight yard, using the kato extension set 23-143

 

[Morcs]

As of today hardware stores in NZ are doing click and collect so am able to start on the board.

 

Framing cut and ready for varnishing.

 

Pushing the limits on the board I think - framing is 22x22mm trellis beading, and will be sandwiched between 2 sheets of 5mm MDF, with the bottom piece extending out the front for a controller shelf, and will have sections of the underside cut away to match the framing.

 

If I put it together well, seal it well it should be light and strong. 

[Morcs]

I usually paint a board after its assembled - is it necessary to paint/seal mated surfaces, particularly if they are bonded with PVA?

I was going to use a varnish+stain on each piece and surface prior to assembly, and then paint the top green but paint likely won't stick to varnish well. Will PVA also have adhesion issues with varnished surfaces?

[cteno4]

Morcs,

 

nice!

 

that should work with your framework and the 5mm, our second club layout was basically the same framework and 5mm luan ply on top and open bottom. Our comer modules were about the size of this with the back corner popped off (squashed hexagons). With 5mm on the bottom it will definitely be fine.

 

yes PVA won’t permeate the varnish so will not bond as well to the varnished suface and pop off if stresses. You can improve this by using rough sandpaper to really rough up the varnish surface well for better adhesion but won’t be as good as getting into the wood pores.

 

i would suggest before varnishing the framework, glue on one side of the mdf, the. Varnish all the edges of the internal framework and bottom of the mdf. I would also pin down the mdf with either a brad nailer or small brad hand hammered nails, this will really help with the whole structure. The. The bottom sheet of pdf you can varnish or paint and just screw onto the bottom of the framework with some pan head screws (or sheet metal screws). This will let you seal up the wiring. You could use a large whole saw or a saber saw to open up areas in the middle of your framework areas to get access to wiring w.o having to remove the whole bottom piece of mdf. If you are going to run wiring between the layers of mdf a number of like 6mm holes between cells in your grid in the framework to run wires thru.

 

if you want it to be a whole closed cell 2 ply sandwich then I think just doing the above attaching top and glue and nail then varnish and don’t varnish the top edge of the framework. Then varnish the inside of the bottom mdf and just rough up well with coarse sandpaper where frame work joins and glue and nail. It will be plenty solid and then all completely sealed inside. The. Paint and varnish top and bottom mdf and varnish outer edges of framework.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Morcs]

Cheers Jeff, yeah was going to carve out sections of the bottom piece with a jigsaw so will still have good access to wiring. Both top and bottom will be PVA + screws as some of the frame pieces are bowed and will need the assistance!

 

I've put 8mm holes through the frames, the connectors on the track end of Kato turnout and power connectors fit through easily enough. I trialled larger holes on offcuts and they weaken the frames too much.

[cteno4]

Cool that should work fine. See if you can clamp the frame and top flat to something rigid and flat while gluing and screwing the mdf down and let the glue set to help draw out any bows in the frame. Drill countersinks for the screws as mdf doesn’t like pull countersinking and tends to crack (especially thinner stuff, sorry you may know this already).

 

probably best to assemble the top and frame, the. Varnish all but top edge of frame and varnish your Swiss cheese bottom. Then rough up the bottom with sand paper where it meets frame edge and clamp down and assemble. The screws will hold most all the stress so it won’t matter if there is varnish on the Pva joint there.

 

in this case it’s important to seal it all up as the mdf will draw in moisture much more than the frame wood will. This is why folks using mdf will usually make the whole thing out of mdf so no differential expansion. But it’s a pain to work with doing framing stuff and not as strong for long trusses and beams unless engineered right. In your 2 layer and frame design it should be fine as the top and bottom pieces should help fight each other on warps along with it being generally sealed up!

 

Jeff

[Morcs]

Today's progressed - shapes cut, Swiss cheese made and frames affixed.

 

Some of my beading wasn't cut perfect lengths so will use a wood filler to tidy up. 

 

Tomorrow will start varnishing the inside surfaces so I can get the pieces together.

Edited April 29, 2020 by Morcs

[cteno4]

Nice!

 

jeff

[Morcs]

Assembly and varnishing complete.

 

Tomorrow the top gets prepped and painted and it's all done.

[cteno4]

Very nice! Great job.

 

jeff

[Morcs]

It is done.

The short backgrounds were an afterthought and not done to the same standard (and just screwed on) 

 

Now I just have to wait for Japan to start shipping again!

[cteno4]

Ooooooooh!

 

kudos!

 

jeff

[Martijn Meerts]

That looks really fancy.. And all of a sudden I have the urge to play some pool 😄