Can you use Kato single curve track on a double track viaduct?

[Philphil]

Alrighty guys, stupid question here:

Since Kato doesn't make non-banked curved viaduct track, how hard is it to remove the double track that came attached to the viaduct?  Is it just screwed in? And if that's true, would I just be able to unscrew it and glue two single curved pieces of track onto it, assuming the screw holes don't match up?

I'd like to change the geometry of the standard Kato viaducts to get 22.5-degree curves instead of the standard 45-degree curves, just for a change. Or is there a better way to do this? I'd try it for myself, but the track hasn't arrived yet.

-Phil

[katoftw]

Im pretty sure you be able to swap them out.  But do kato have any 22.5 degree single curves?

[Kiha66]

Let me dig out my V13 set and see, I know you can on the straight sections so I cant see why the curves would be any different.

[cteno4]

yep this should work. the plate with the two tracks on it pop out by just inserting a small screwdriver up thru the bottom to pop the little finger clips. the base is just the right height for the tracks.

 

of course you will then have roadbed and ties not the concrete base. but the viaduct base should take the track segments. if you need i can pop some out and dig up appropriate track to make certain.

 

I may have an extra set of the old flat 45 double viaduct. i had two loop sets and a pile of curves i bought. i used some on the old JRM layout and would need to see how much is left now. nice to have as its no longer available and might want some in the future myself!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Kiha66]

So the double track pops off and the base has mounting holes to screw in the normal single track.  However I looked and kato doesn't make 22.5 degree single track pieces in N scale track, so you'll either have to custom cut some or just go with 45 degree curves, which you can already make with two easement pieces.

[cteno4]

Doh! What was I thinking! I was looking at the 45 flats not the 45 super elevated!  Sorry! 

 

Jeff

[Philphil]

On 3/8/2018 at 7:29 PM, Kiha66 said:

So the double track pops off and the base has mounting holes to screw in the normal single track.  However I looked and kato doesn't make 22.5 degree single track pieces in N scale track, so you'll either have to custom cut some or just go with 45 degree curves, which you can already make with two easement pieces.

 

On 3/8/2018 at 7:11 PM, cteno4 said:

yep this should work. the plate with the two tracks on it pop out by just inserting a small screwdriver up thru the bottom to pop the little finger clips. the base is just the right height for the tracks.

 

of course you will then have roadbed and ties not the concrete base. but the viaduct base should take the track segments. if you need i can pop some out and dig up appropriate track to make certain.

 

I may have an extra set of the old flat 45 double viaduct. i had two loop sets and a pile of curves i bought. i used some on the old JRM layout and would need to see how much is left now. nice to have as its no longer available and might want some in the future myself!

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

On 3/8/2018 at 5:54 PM, katoftw said:

Im pretty sure you be able to swap them out.  But do kato have any 22.5 degree single curves?

Have any of you guys had to cut both the Kato roadbed and the track before? Is there any good way to do it and get a clean, decent cut?

[cteno4]

Yep it’s pretty easy. The cleanest way to cut unitrak is to use a razor saw in a little miter box and cut out a section in the middle the amount you need it shortened by. You just need to use a blade or small nippers to take off the spike heads holdingnthe roadbed to the rails on the center piece to be removed. Then slide one side end of the roadbed back to meet up with the other and use some epoxy on the underside on the crack if you want it really strong (not necessary though). Then nip the rails to length with good rail nippers or use a cut off disc in a rotary tool. If you file the rail ends it’s good to hold the end of the rail you are filing with smooth jaw pliers or only file in a downward direction with the track firmly held on the workbench edge as filing w.o good rail support can start to loosen the spike heads holdingnthe rail at the ends. Also can use sanding drum, face of a cut off disc or grinding bit inna rotoary tool to clean the ends if needed w.o stress of a flatfile.

 

this process maintains the unijoiner sockets for you and only get one little crack in the road bed from the split.

 

take an extra hunk of track and practice a number of times cutting roadbed and cutting and finishing the rail. After a few it won’t feel like you are amputating your arm!

 

cheers

 

jeff