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How did you improve your rolling stock?


Densha

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JR 500系

Yap, the invasiveness of the TN couplers sometimes frightened me, plus sometimes the TN couplers derail trains on my layout, maybe due to the closeness of the carriages and the tightness of the curves... 

 

I'm using the Kato 11-704 type, which is easy to install. Simply remove the existing Arnold Hook coupler and install this coupler assembly in, taking care not to lose the coupler spring in the process... The gangway is Kato Z05-0808 grey gangway pieces, but you would need to cut off the connecting pieces to flush it flat, as this coupler are actually designed for the 201, 285 series trains ~A little super glue is needed to attach the gangway pieces. 

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Fitted the 813 update parts. The coupler is the new variety without the hook underneath so looks far more prototypical. I may need to get more of these to start updating a few of my other older models where the hook has bent over time. 

 

The roof replaces the grey with a silver one, much more like the real one. The light unit actually subdues the light spill so that rather than having twin head lights, you now get single much more like the real thing but actual a little less bright.

 

Light Unit

Old Left, New Right

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Roof

 

New Left, Old Right

 

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Old lights

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New Lights

 

02846B52-6873-453B-8DF1-F288002A73A0.thumb.jpeg.34f51863ad57f949fc1a8f4f240eaa87.jpeg973B64D0-3F09-42A5-8BA7-9B81FFA363D9.thumb.jpeg.4ed8db96264a9ce92673a290409f1863.jpeg

 

Not really sure if everyone will agree this is an upgrade but definitely far closer to the real thing.

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katoftw

I have been deciding if to buy this update kit. Will have to pull out my 813 and make a decision.

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For ¥1400+tax i think it’s a reasonable update set.

 

3 roof pieces, including  all roof equipment except the pantograph, 2 light prism pieces, 2 new couplers + coupler detail piece. 

 

Couplers between cars remain the old hook type. 

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ED75-775

Today something arrived in the post from HobbySearch, the eagerly-awaited Arnold couplers and return springs for my Tomix 2714. It had arrived in New Zealand with two different knuckle couplings and thus would not run with my other stock.

Well, not anymore! In the process I also learned two things:

1) The cover plates are very fiddly little things to get on or off;

2) They’re also easy to bend if you’re not careful.

All is now fixed and as it should be, and in case anyone’s wondering, that spiced ginger beer makes a nice reward after a little job like that (plus it’s also part of my lunch!)

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ED75-775
1 hour ago, katoftw said:

Bundaberg ginger bear?

That's right! Good drink for a good job well done.

  • Haha 1
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Kamome
Posted (edited)

Another update.

This time the Kato 0系 update parts. 

 

The kit comes with

 

2 chassis with the new light units, housing and seating with the usual brass strips running underfloor. 

 

2 sets of light prisms (small pieces which are a little bit of a pig to fit. 

 

2 new nose cones as easy to damage removing them. 

 

The cab with the missing nose cone is the updated one. Difficult to see in the photo but the headlights are a little less yellow than those from 10-453. Cab is now green rather than silver which looks better. The huge prism on the old model is removed so should make it easier to remove body in future.

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Edited by Kamome
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Englehart

can be these called an improvement? I converted it from a long shank to a short still rapido couplers 🙂

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Kamome

If it looks more like the actual thing, it’s an improvement in my book.

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bill937ca
Posted (edited)

Added two Kato 11-211 lighting units to my Kato Greenmover LEX.

 

 

IMG_8588 1920  x 1080.jpg

Edited by bill937ca
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cteno4

Bill, so you need three to complete it?

 

jeff

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bill937ca
Posted (edited)

Two, one for each end cab.

 

Pull the cab away.

Separate the light unit from the packaging.

Remove the black cover from the chassis

Fold down the arms of the light unit

Insert the light unit into the cavity.

Replace the black cover on the cavity.

Reassemble the cab and body

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Edited by bill937ca
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bill937ca

You can use 2 x 11-211 or order 11-212 which is a six pack.

 

Old Kato lighting kits thread   

 

Widely available, so you don't necessarily have to order from Japan.

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cteno4

Cool glad it’s so simple! I shutter from the memories of pulling apart Kato portrams to fix them, looks like the lex come apart easily. I have my lex here now may just have to light it up!

 

so is there a light bar in the top of the center section in there or do you put one in. Your photo shows such good lighting in the center section just like the ends.

 

jeff

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bill937ca
Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, cteno4 said:

Cool glad it’s so simple! I shutter from the memories of pulling apart Kato portrams to fix them, looks like the lex come apart easily. I have my lex here now may just have to light it up!

 

so is there a light bar in the top of the center section in there or do you put one in. Your photo shows such good lighting in the center section just like the ends.

 

jeff

No, I did not touch the center section.  Just make sure the cavity cover is right back on and the articulation hinge can swivel. I'm usually not one to do these type of things, but this was easy.

 

Another photo today.

IMG_8594 cropped.jpg

Edited by bill937ca
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Dinosbacsi

Was bored after work today, so decided to install the realistic Kato couplers and front skirts onto my Chuo-Sobu Line 103 series. The picture below shows before and after.

 

The shibata couplers are definitely a huge improvement over the silly Rapido couplers sticking out from the front of the train. And while the front skirts on a Chuo-Sobu 103 series are everything but prototypical, I think it looks much better this way, so it is what it is. What do you guys think?

uLgZ6PE.jpg

 

The only downside of the new couplers is that I decided to cut the small hook part off of them on the cab cars, to make it look more realistic, so the train can't actually be coupled to any other train or locomotive. But it's not like I would want to couple it to anything anyway, I mean an EMU will be running by itself, so it's not that big of a deal.

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ED75-775

Picked up an old project today with my grandfather - "doctoring" a Kato 7002-3 DD51 to receive a 7008-2 cab as replacement for the original, hacked around version. The old cab had been glued down after I snapped some holding lugs (ouch!), it turns out Humbrol poly cement is good stuff because Granddad got one side off easily, but the other didn't want to part. Some cautious pressure and a sharp scapel got the old cab off, and made some changes in preparation for the new one (a notch needed to be cut into one side of the running board to locate the cab).

 

Next step - when I have time or feel like it - is to clean along the edge of the running board where the cab was, and touch up with some grey paint a la the H0-scale version from my 2019 Kato catalog. I have no idea if this was common or not, but hey, it'll help somewhat mask the fact the star on the cab side won't quite line up. Then once that's done, the final act of butchery will be to file a little material off the slots for the exhaust stacks so I can refit the old hoods (correct length but slightly wider stacks). Then I'll decide whether I keep it or sell it on our national auction site. ATM I'm leaning towards selling it but I'm in no hurry to make a decision - yet.

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cteno4

Very nice to be able to work with your grandfather on this.

 

jeff

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Tony Galiani

Weathered two containers this weekend.  Trying to come close to what I have seen in videos - light weathering and no shine but not extremely dirty.  Put on a coat of clear flat, than a bit of dry brushing with dark grey on the sides, end and roof.  Tried to get some streaks on the roof consistent with air flow but not sure it worked all that well.  I then used a bit of Tamiya grey panel line accent on a cotton swab on the top of each one.

image.png.57d22d39b9bbf643a8becfa9a81b4e5f.png

One thing I realized was that adding a bit of water to the clear flat reduced the appearance of the brush strokes and seemed to give a better end result.  The container on the left was done with that technique and looks better to me.  The container on the right was done first and you can see some white effect from the uneven flat finish.  I might try and add some heavier weathering to the top of the one on the right but not sure if that would be too unrealistic.

Ciao,

Tony Galiani

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disturbman

You should have kept one in its original state and make comparison close-ups of all three.

 

I have seen a lot of more heavy handed weathering, not so much light ones.

 

Next is the locomotive, right?

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Tony Galiani

Next is more containers in line with your suggestion.  I have a small collection to work on and will hopefully develop a variety of weathering patterns to get some contrast.  And I think I will weather the one on the right more heavily based on your comment.

 

I need to get a bit more practice before I have the nerve to work on my brand new DF 200!

 

Ciao,

Tony

 

 

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