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Densha

How did you improve your rolling stock?

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JR 500系

Definitely a great upgrade! Really nice train by the way! 

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lighthouse

Some time for adding some parts 

IMG_20200209_112805.jpg

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Sheffie

I’m not sure that this counts as an improvement—especially considering the broken amber roof light—but the paint and the gundam marker is removable with alcohol, so. 

 

Before:

CB2E423D-62CD-4E95-B248-7912F2BE14F4.thumb.jpeg.67ec1e692ff3aac62cc24a95520a5ece.jpeg

 

After:

8CBBFC5E-9D1C-41FE-8195-ABC61DB3DB34.thumb.jpeg.a69191045fae8b1abdef9e661e1c7798.jpeg

 

The steps are all black, and parts of those plus various handrails have had the “original paint worn off” to reveal shiny brass metal underneath. Oh, and lots of soot and grime on the roof hardware. 

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railsquid

Here we see a MicroAce DD13:

 

49583791871_6792ccc182_z.jpg

MicroAce DD13 (DD13-85) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

sold to me cheaply as a non-runner, which turned out to be because it's from the little-known MicroAce "Shorty" range (put it on the tracks, the controller shorts out).

 

After much disassembly (thankfully quite straightforward):

 

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MicroAce DD13 (DD13-85) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

I finally located the source of the shorting, which was probably not due to the motor contact points contacting the wrong side of the split chassis, but very was certainly due to a design flaw in the bogies, specifically the rod holding the central gear (between the two axles):

 

49583293693_e6ba27ffb2_z.jpg

MicroAce DD13 (DD13-85) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

which is part of the somewhat old-fashioned diecast split bogie, and which is insulated from the other bogie half by an air gap, which is less than the amount of play between the two bogie halves, resulting in frequent shorting.

 

Solution is simple enough - a patch of DIY insulation:

 

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MicroAce DD13 (DD13-85) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

and another locomotive restored to service.

 

Edited by railsquid
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Martijn Meerts

Shorty indeed ....

 

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Fenway Park

Thanks for the info as my MA DD13 has been consigned to its box. Similar problems with a MA C12 which shorted out. 

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railsquid

I presume the intent was to have the central gear sheath the rod, but either the sheathing has worn down, or by the looks of it just wasn't long enough in the first place.

 

Come to think of it, I should revisit the MA DD16 I bought a long while back which IIRC runs but doesn't like going round corners, it has a similar bogie design so wonder if there's something going on there.

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railsquid

Meanwhile, among this pile of "junk" acquired in January:

 

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Junk, 2020-01 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

is a Tomix ED75 (the one with the 1600 yen sticker on it), which unwrapped looks like this:

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Tomix ED75 (ED75 1039) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

i.e. basically excellent condition, and appears to be Tomix 2115 , i.e. the newer tooling, which is an excellent find at that price. The only thing actually missing (well apart from the box etc.) are the cab end grab handles, but oh looksie what do we have in the parts drawer:

 

49613059598_ba136da494_z.jpg

Tomix ED75 (ED75 1039) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

(can't remember why exactly I bought them, probably with the intent of doing up an older loco).

 

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Tomix ED75 (ED75 1039) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

I will however need to replace the number plates at some point as the previous owner was somewhat less than precise when cutting and fitting (but at least didn't fix them in place with gobs of glue).

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Sheffie
Posted (edited)

Well, hmm. 

 

I spent quite a long time very carefully applying weathering paint to the EF510. I was terrified of overdoing it, or getting paint on the wrong part and ruining one of my favorite engines. 

 

B646C5FB-C2C5-4339-A9C9-D64BB6BE3CED.thumb.jpeg.3e1cc99ee53277050b27343f85aaf496.jpeg

 

After all that... I’m not sure if you can tell the difference. 

 

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Edited by Sheffie
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gavino200

I like it. Nice and subtle.

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Kamome

Looks good Sheffie. The less is more with n gauge. It’s very easy to over do it.

 

I would just add that if it’s enamel based weathering paint, just use a small brush and some enamel thinners to clean up the dab marks where you’ve added paint to the panel lines. It’ll make it look that little bit better.

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cteno4

Great sheffie. That’s the way to go do it slow and in bits.

 

jeff

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Das Steinkopf

Given I have a bit of spare time on my hands I decided not to waste it and jumped into weathering the Kato JRF DE10-1500 I received a couple of days ago. I took a slightly different approach this time and used Tamiya acrylics thinned down using thinners instead of water, I also used a 000 brush working on smaller sections at a time, I will be sticking with this technique in the future as I much prefer the results.

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disturbman
Posted (edited)

My three-year-old broke the last coupler of her grandfather’s steam locomotive. I had to improvise replacements for this ancient set. A nail was driven through the base of the old coupler before being cut down to size and glued. Just missing a coating of candle wax to smooth out the spikiness.

 

DA13AA34-2C47-42B4-B316-A1E6EB09954D.thumb.jpeg.4ceb72de540d63ab63b05963157d44af.jpeg8D592025-FF38-4350-8D2F-B76EE6575F3A.thumb.jpeg.13ac526d5f7b3eb04a88dde6e67a2797.jpeg

Edited by disturbman
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cteno4

Ha Same fix ive dome with fine sewing pins on Kato diaphragm shinkansen couplers! 
 

jeff

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Kiha66
Posted (edited)

I've been working on lighting some kato trains for a friend, and possibly been going overboard with painting the interiors.  I may add working mars lights to the locomotive and tail car too if I can convince him to pony up for the decoders...   The lights aren't nearly as blue as they appear, they actually look quite nice in person.  I plan to do the RPO with SMD LEDs to simulated the incandescent bulbs versus the rest of the train's florescent lighting.

photo5062459213309126858.thumb.jpg.49c78b0b4a1f27a201df1a305caf9296.jpg

Edited by Kiha66
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