Shinkansen 0-Series

[VentureForth]

My dearly beloved wife bought me a very nice Kato set (probably way over paid for it, too).  It's the 10-453, 8-Car 0-Series Tokaido Shinkansen.  I have a couple of questions.  I noticed that it came with Rapido couplers.  I really like the Tomix TN couplers that I have on my 201-series Chuo line set.

 

Can Tomix TN couplers be fitted to Kato's Shinkansen?  If not, how about magna-matic (though less prototypical)?

 

I hate to mess with something new in the box, especially a classic like this, but Rapido just won't do!

Edited May 22, 2017 by VentureForth

[Kiha66]

I fitted my kato 0 series with kato part 11-703, which shortens the distance between cars, and looks much better IMO.  Not quite a TN, but they just drop into the slot for the Rapido couplers and require no modification to the train.  Plus, they can easily be removed and switched back to Rapido's, if you want to keep the train original. 

[VentureForth]

That's fine.  I don't need to pair them to my 201's, nor do I need to have auto coupling. ;)  I just wanted a better looking coupler.  This is going to work great.  $7 and two weeks. 

 

Thanks!

Edited May 22, 2017 by VentureForth

[railsquid]

I fitted my kato 0 series with kato part 11-703, which shortens the distance between cars, and looks much better IMO.  Not quite a TN, but they just drop into the slot for the Rapido couplers and require no modification to the train.  Plus, they can easily be removed and switched back to Rapido's, if you want to keep the train original. 

 

I tried this and had to revert to Rapido as it didn't handle 280mm radius Tomix curves.

 

BTW Tomix TN couplers require two lugs on each side of the body to be attached; AFAIK only Tomix and Greenmax models have these.

[kvp]

You can try the bogie mountable Tomix TN couplers. There are two kits, one is for dmus, loco hauled and freight and the other is shibata for emus. You get the parts on a sprue so you have to assemble them. They work ok on R280. Kit number is 0381 for the sibata version with a T shaped mounting end.

[VentureForth]

Got it in the mail from Japan this morning!  Woo hoo!  So there seem to be a few issues.  First of all, the instructions confirm using the 10-703 couplers.  But even with the Arnold-Rapidos, they suggest minimum 315mm radius. Unfortunately, most of my track is 280mm - especially all of my viaducts.  If I convert to 11-703, then I risk not being able to use my entire viaduct system (single track, brown pillar Tomix).  Of course, it looks like I may risk that anyway.  I better start looking at a 315mm min layout.  :o

 

Finally, I see that I can get lighting kits for this train.  Awesome!  I don't think Kato does CL like Tomix.  They do offer the yellow or white LED kits.  Has anyone ever put a Tomix CL kit on a Kato trainset?  I probably won't bother, but it would be cool if it is not too much trouble.  Which do y'all prefer?  Yellow or White?  My 201 is Yellow, so it may be more nostalgic (especially being a 0-series).  Thoughts?

Edited May 23, 2017 by VentureForth

[railsquid]

You can try the bogie mountable Tomix TN couplers. There are two kits, one is for dmus, loco hauled and freight and the other is shibata for emus. You get the parts on a sprue so you have to assemble them. They work ok on R280. Kit number is 0381 for the sibata version with a T shaped mounting end.

 

I wasn't aware of those, I'll give those a try with the Kato 0 series.

[kvp]

I wasn't aware of those, I'll give those a try with the Kato 0 series.

A word of caution: They only work if the rapido mounts support a T shaped coupler end and not usable with the sockets that have small central pegs for the couplers and use O shaped coupler ends. (it's also on the box art somewhere).

 

Afaik these are the various available types:

[VentureForth]

I wasn't aware of those, I'll give those a try with the Kato 0 series.

 

I'll let you test those since I've already bought the 11-703s.

[VentureForth]

Well, I'm fairly impressed. The rapidos are actually pretty close in. On my 280 mm viaduct, it's about as close as it can get.

 

First pic is on the single track viaduct where it performed beautifully. On occasion, there was a tiny bit of rub in the pushed cars.

 

The second and third pictures are on Atlas Code 80 250mm track. Tight for sure, but it worked.

 

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[VentureForth]

And a video...

 

 

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Edited May 24, 2017 by cteno4

[VentureForth]

HELP! How do I disassemble the nose unit to install a light?

 

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[VentureForth]

I can't separate the base from the nose lighting system.

[Kiha66]

I'm out right now, but once I get home I'll try to take some pictures of mine. Those cab cars can be tricky, the cab insert is screwed to the floor, but the window inserts keep the shell from sliding forward and off the light assembly. You have to stretch the shell uncomfortably wide to slip of free.

[VentureForth]

That was the hint I needed. Pried wide to clear light unit from window and pulled chassis aft. Very uncomfortable.

 

Thanks!

[Kiha66]

Glad to help! Are you installing a FL12 for the head/tail lights?

[VentureForth]

Glad to help! Are you installing a FL12 for the head/tail lights?

Nah. They came with stock, so I didn't mess. Not doing the DCC.  I just put in the cheapest 11-204 cabin lights. Though, I may have messed up the intensity of the red. May have reinstalled the light tunnel upside down...

 

Seems like the trick to reinstalling is to remove the nose because of a peg on it. Two of my units didn't fit back exactly right, including one of the cabs, ship I may have to get back into it.

 

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Edited May 30, 2017 by VentureForth

[VentureForth]

OK.  I've done it now.  A pantograph got caught on the lace table cloth and busted off.  Can't figure which panto to replace it with.  Ideas?

Edited May 30, 2017 by VentureForth

[nah00]

Is the pantograph itself broken or did it just pop out of the slots that hold it into the roof? Unless it's completely mangled you should be able to get it back together, it just takes A LOT of patience. Also did the set you got come with the instruction sheet? On the back of it it should have a list of replacement parts with pictures and the part number.

[VentureForth]

I thought I recovered all the pieces, but I'm missing one. I don't think I'll find it. That being said, the part sheet that came with the set has some part numbers for the pantograph but none of them seem to make sense nor are they Google-able.

 

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[VentureForth]

Parts list...

 

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[Ewan.in.gz]

On the disassembled diagram photo, part F (パンタグラフ) is the pantograph. Part number is 4295F.

 

2 per pack, 420 Yen.

 

Ewan

[VentureForth]

Oh - there it is.  4259F.  Of course, not available on ebay...

[Ewan.in.gz]

You may need to buy it from a Japanese dealer, you can check the ones profiled here.

[Ewan.in.gz]

I generally buy spares from the main Kato dealer in Hong Kong, or pick them up when I am in Tokyo or Osaka, but then I live in this part of the world...