What did you order or the post deliver? (Worldwide Models)

[railsquid]

Something from the UK for a change, a Graham Farish Class 47 in original 1960s two-tone green livery, at a very reasonable price due to it being a "very poor runner", which as expected was due to an outbreak of splitgearitis, which took about 15 minutes to fix and it now runs almost perfectly.

 

Farish Class 47 D1500 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

[Welshbloke]

Went to Cheltenham Model Centre and this happened. Used, had a "broken" pantograph but just needed a linkage clipping back on, runs very sweetly:

 

 

[Lina_Blue]

Now for something completly different:

 

Re 460 New Look with a IC2000 doubledecker consist. I know, it's not what I normaly model, but I like it.

- Steering Car is currently beeing modded for DCC lights.

 

 

sadly, the Rapido couplers disconnected in curves and inclines. Need to replace those with something more suitable for my Unitrack.

EDIT: Kato Loco and Hobbytrain carriages.

Edited August 31, 2018 by Waisneed

[gavino200]

15 hours ago, railsquid said:

Something from the UK for a change, a Graham Farish Class 47 in original 1960s two-tone green livery, at a very reasonable price due to it being a "very poor runner", which as expected was due to an outbreak of splitgearitis, which took about 15 minutes to fix and it now runs almost perfectly.

 

 

Farish Class 47 D1500 by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

I'm impressed by all these non-runners you manage to get working. Where did you get this beauty? Also, I'm curious what your success rate is with these poor runners. How often, if ever, are you not able to get them working? Do you stick to brands models where you know the common problem parts are still available on the market?

 

Also, what is splitgearitis? How do you recognize it? And how do you fix it?

 

Sorry about all the questions.

[railsquid]

42 minutes ago, gavino200 said:

I'm impressed by all these non-runners you manage to get working. Where did you get this beauty?

 

Here 🙂

 

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Also, I'm curious what your success rate is with these poor runners. How often, if ever, are you not able to get them working?

 

Having been messing about with these things for a few years, I am surprised how robust they are, particularly older models. Mostly problems are actually something quite simple, like loose electrical contacts or motor brushes, or even just built-up dirt and/or a bit of strategic lubrication needed. The ones which have defeated me so far are an Endou EF58 (hopelessly split gears, no replacements available), a Brawa multiple unit (again split gear, no replacements available at the time, though that might have changed), and an old Minitrix electric loco, the motor itself probably needs repair or replacement, but I haven't been able to work out how to remove it for closer inspection.
 

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Do you stick to brands models where you know the common problem parts are still available on the market?

 

 

More a case of being reasonably confident I can repair it, I took a punt on this 47 as the chances were high it was just a split gear, in the worst case I could harvest it for parts or convert to a dummy loco. I wouldn't normally buy a non-running older model sight unseen (unless for parts maybe), but I have picked up some in shops where I could test them and get a feel for whether they were salveagable.

 

My favourite was an old Roco model labelled as a non-runner, I put it on the test track on the shop and it looked fine, and was doing its best to run, got it home, put it on the layout and after a stuttery start it picked up and was just fine.
 

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Also, what is splitgearitis? How do you recognize it? And how do you fix it?

 

 

Usually the locomotive makes a distinctive "clack clack" sound when running, and will stall frequently (and in bad cases it may not run at all). Then you remove the offending bogie, identify (often by a process of elimination) the split gear(s) (which will be on the axles, if not you'll probably need a new bogie tower), whip out the gear puller, remove wheel from one side, remove split gear, slide new gear onto the axle, replace wheel, use back-to-back gauge to check, reassemble. It does help if the gears are available, of course, which they are in the case of Bachmann/Farish.

[gavino200]

4 minutes ago, railsquid said:

 

Usually the locomotive makes a distinctive "clack clack" sound when running, and will stall frequently (and in bad cases it may not run at all). Then you remove the offending bogie, identify (often by a process of elimination) the split gear(s) (which will be on the axles, if not you'll probably need a new bogie tower), whip out the gear puller, remove wheel from one side, remove split gear, slide new gear onto the axle, replace wheel, use back-to-back gauge to check, reassemble. It does help if the gears are available, of course, which they are in the case of Bachmann/Farish.

 

Thanks Squid. A few short follow up questions if you don't mind.

 

1. When you say "split" gear, are you using "split" to mean, broken, busted, eff'd-up etc. Or is it literally split? One cog separated from another? A crack through the plane of the gear (like a broken dinner-plate)?

 

2. What's a gear puller and where do I get one?

 

3. What's a back-to-back gauge and where do I get one?

 

 

[railsquid]

Just now, gavino200 said:

 

1. When you say "split" gear, are you using "split" to mean, broken, busted, eff'd-up etc. Or is it literally split? One cog separated from another? A crack through the plane of the gear (like a broken dinner-plate)?

 

 

The latter; a bit tricky to see from the photo, but the split here is between the two teeth closest to the tip of the screwdriver.

 

 

 

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2. What's a gear puller and where do I get one?

 

Something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Metal-Walkera-Motor-Pinion-Gear-Puller-Remover-W010-for-RC-Helicopter/32835400073.html

 

I got mine from some Chinese vendor on Ebay. Also known as a pinion puller, often associated with remote control helicopters.

 

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3. What's a back-to-back gauge and where do I get one?

 

 

 

It's a tool to ensure the wheels are at the correct spacing on the axle, which occasionally they're not (which is one source of derailments). I use this one:

 

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/back-to-back-n-scale-standard-7-65mm/

 

[Suica]

Got my first US Models.

A Bachmann HHP-8, Kato P42 Genesis and some Amfleet II & Viewliner coaches.

 

Does anyone know if it's possible to fit a knuckle coupler to the HHP-8? I managed to get a Kato coupler in but that's only for looks, doesn't work well.

[Yavianice]

Heh, I saw the Bachmann on eBAY. Really wanted it also, but forgot about it until it expired 😛 by the way, how does the Bachmann loco run? I heard some disturbing stories on US N scale groups about the reliability of the engine.

[Suica]

21 hours ago, Yavianice said:

Heh, I saw the Bachmann on eBAY. Really wanted it also, but forgot about it until it expired 😛 by the way, how does the Bachmann loco run? I heard some disturbing stories on US N scale groups about the reliability of the engine.

It has DCC equipped but it seems to run pretty fine on my non DCC test setup. Can'T complain there.

But the coupler situation really gives me a headache.

[Lina_Blue]

My track cleaning car returned from warranty, now I can finally show you my DCC friendly Hyper Clean DX cleaning train ^^;;

 

The loco will be replaced with a fret engine, but my Re 460 is currently my only DCC engine, everything else is a EMU of some kind or other.

 

[Yavianice]

@Waisneed How do the LUX cars compare to the TOMIX cleaner cars? I have been quite interested in the LUX cleaning cars but I think they are very expensive, and was wondering if there was added benefit of having these compared to cheap TOMIX cars

[Lina_Blue]

3 minutes ago, Yavianice said:

@Waisneed How do the LUX cars compare to the TOMIX cleaner cars? I have been quite interested in the LUX cleaning cars but I think they are very expensive, and was wondering if there was added benefit of having these compared to cheap TOMIX cars

 

I had the Lux cars first, and bought the Tomix mostly because they look better on a Japanese layout. But after using both. The Lux cars work better.

 

The Vacuum gets more debris and dust of the tracks, and the cleaner works also better than a Tomix car fitted with the dremel like thingy.

 

Also the Lux cars support DCC and DC with a constant working force for both cars.

 

The third car is just for looks.

[Yavianice]

Thanks for the info. Now I can wonder whether to buy 9 TOMIX cleaner cars and run them all back to back or the vaccuum and cleaner car in a set from LUX.

[Lina_Blue]

Important: The Tomix cleaner cars are heavyer than normal cars, your locos may have trouble hauling more than two tomix cleaners. While the Lux cars are lightweight and quiter than the tomix cars. But they do look better.

[Yavianice]

I know. I use two EF510's (one with, one without traction wheels) to drag my duo TOMIX cleaner cars around. Though my super powerful Fleischmann BR103 (the most powerful locomotive I own) can drag that, and much more, around without any issue.

[nah00]

On 9/6/2018 at 5:44 AM, Suica said:

It has DCC equipped but it seems to run pretty fine on my non DCC test setup. Can'T complain there.

But the coupler situation really gives me a headache.

 

I *believe* that you can use Micro Trains 2004-1 (underslung short shank BMC). The assembled ones cost more but save you the joy of trying to fit the spring into the coupler box. 

[railsquid]

A Fleischmann BR103:

 

Fleischmann BR 103 (103 115-2) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

which is the previous model generation, but a nice runner and excellent "layout locomotive", and a Fleischmann BR01, total Rule 1 purchase which came up for the right price:

 

Fleischmann BR01 (01 1093) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

Just missing a lense in one of the lamps, which I maybe able to find something to replace it with, if not it doesn't really stand out.

[chadbag]

1 hour ago, railsquid said:

A Fleischmann BR103:

 

Fleischmann BR 103 (103 115-2) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

which is the previous model generation, but a nice runner and excellent "layout locomotive", and a Fleischmann BR01, total Rule 1 purchase which came up for the right price:

 

 

 

I have that previous model (7237 I believe) BR103 in red, and 2 of the same generation BR103 in the creme/red (different running numbers).  They are nice runners and nice models.  They just look nice.  If you do DCC at all the 1zu160.net site has a good conversion description for these BR103.

 

 

[railsquid]

1 hour ago, chadbag said:

I have that previous model (7237 I believe) BR103 in red, and 2 of the same generation BR103 in the creme/red (different running numbers).  They are nice runners and nice models.  They just look nice.  If you do DCC at all the 1zu160.net site has a good conversion description for these BR103.

 

Model number is 7377. No DCC here...

 

This is the current model generation, nice to look at but difficult to control at low speeds, and has a rather gimmicky light in the engine room. Was a DM Toys bargain from a couple of years back so can't complain.

 

Fleischmann BR103 (103 225-9) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

 

Fleischmann BR103 (103 225-9) by Rail Squid, on Flickr

[chadbag]

1 hour ago, railsquid said:

 

Model number is 7377. No DCC here...

 

 

Yeah, 7377 is what I meant.  I think my 2 red/creme ones are 7375.  They are the same generation as the red BR103.  Different running numbers though.  One the DB logo is black, and one is red, and the corresponding bottom of the side skirt is black or red also.

 

The BR103 just looks nice (in whatever version).

 

[serotta1972]

My Kato Name Trains collection is complete with the arrival of the UP City of Los Angeles.

 

 

[Kiha66]

Just in time for the Los Altos show with AsiaNRail, Chinese freight cars!

[Kiha66]

They are much nicer than expected, very well packaged and lots of brass details.  Also they come with a removable coal load which exactly fits a 40' iso container in the well.  And what's more, the case has removable foam to allow you to store loaded gondolas with aftermarket containers loaded, very nicely done!

[bill937ca]

For some time I've had a fascination with the 1960s era trams of Dusseldorf manufacturer Duwag. An early 60s issue of the Electric Railroaders Association publication Headlights I picked on eBay in July provided GT6 and GT8 plans and early history.  This led to a review of their history in Dusseldorf following earlier research of the remaining GT8 trams in Poznan. Poland where the Dusseldorf trams moved after their days in Germany were done.  This led to me looking into the 338 licensed copies of the GT6 built from 1967 to 1976 as Wiener Linien (Viennese Lines) class E1 in Vienna, Austria.  The articulated E1 usually pulled a 13-14 meter c3 sidecar (or trailer) creating a 33 meter long train. Currently, only 37 or less E1 trams remain in operation. Soulless low floor trams are taking over.

 

The model is a HO scale c3 trailer, the last of which were retired in summer 2017. I believe these are manufactured by Stangl also known as Leopold Halling for the Vienna Transport Museum. While Leopold Halling's pricey models are popular with HO scale tram modellers, the lower priced all plastic non motorized models of Vienna's red and white old trams are aimed at the tourist market. Its adequate for my needs as I don't have the space for an HO scale tram layout.

 

Someday I may acquire an unmotorized Stangl E1 tram to mate with the sidecar. For now the sidecar remains a static model waiting for a display location.

http://www.bahnwahn.de/steckbrief/hle/

 

c3 historical information:  https://www.strassenbahnjournal.at/wiki/index.php?title=Type_c3_(1959-2017)

 

Vienna Transport Museum  http://tram.at/remise/

Edited September 17, 2018 by bill937ca