smoothing over plastercloth?

[scott]

The plastercloth we've been using has a really obvious texture to it. Paint by itself doesn't hide the texture at all. Plus there are obvious lines at the edges of the strips.

 

What's a good way to cover all this up? Does anybody use plaster or something else to smooth over the plaster cloth before they put down vegetation etc., or do you just rely on plants and paint to cover the texture?

[disturbman]

You can use more plaster, but without the colth this time ;), to cover it. Found some kind of technique here maybe it will inspire you. :)

[Guest ___]

Learn from my mistakes, Scott. Plastercloth if it gets saturated by paint loses its structural integrity.

[scott]

You can use more plaster, but without the colth this time ;), to cover it. Found some kind of technique here maybe it will inspire you. :)

 

Thanks!

 

Learn from my mistakes, Scott. Plastercloth if it gets saturated by paint loses its structural integrity.

 

http://despair.com/mis24x30prin.html

[Bernard]

Scott - here is a series of photos showing how the method I use to create this cliff.

The 1st photo is the structure after I finished with the plaster cloth.

Next I apply the rock models to the cliff and then I use "Sculpt-A-Mold" and cover the entire structure, I find the Sculpt-A-Mold gives it texture.

Then I use WS earth undercoat to any white from the sculpt-a-mold which brings me to the last step, adding different WS ground cover.

[CaptOblivious]

If you're gonna flock it, the texture doesn't really matter, since you'll never see it for all the ground foam :D

 

Otherwise, I try to smooth it out as best I can while it's still wet. I think disturbman is on to the best solution for already dried stuff (i.e. more plaster), if it really has to be smooth.

[scott]

Thanks, everybody--I'll try out some of these ideas and see what works.

[Claude_Dreyfus]

I use a two-stage process...

 

Firstly lay the cloth, also known as modrock, either already dampened or dry. If you do lay it dry, you then spray it with a water spray to wet the plaster. I prefer the first option as it is more pliable. Lightly smooth, but not too much or you will dislodge the cloth, or spread the plaster too thin. You will also need to ensure that the plaster is not too dry - won't stick - or too wet, same net result... I'm afraid there are so many variables here - temperature, humidity etc. that this is very much trial and error.

 

Either which way, you will need to wait for this first layer to dry...

 

Once dry, I add a further layer of plaster to cover over any remaining cloth texture. At this point I mix a base colour to the plaster - usually brown. The brown needs to be very dark as obviously the white of the plaster lightens it considerably. I should add that you could also colour the original plaster cloth, by soaking in a mixture of paint and water.

 

This helps as it helps to disguise any later chips to the scenery, which may reveal those tell-tale patches of white.

[cteno4]

Learn from my mistakes, Scott. Plastercloth if it gets saturated by paint loses its structural integrity.

 

Aaron,

 

im wondering if your plaster cloth got moisture in it before you bought it. i have heard that plastercloth with behave like that (not setting well) when it gets damp before use.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[cteno4]

then I use "Sculpt-A-Mold" and cover the entire structure, I find the Sculpt-A-Mold gives it texture.

Then I use WS earth undercoat to any white from the sculpt-a-mold which brings me to the last step, adding different WS ground cover.

 

Bernard,

 

have you ever tried to add some earth tone acrylic paint to your sculpt-a-mold when making it to pre earth color the ground? i was wondering if you could do this with sculpt-a-mold and meaning to try it. folks do this with plaster so if you get a chip there is not a white show through.

 

just curious!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Bernard]

 

 

Bernard,

 

have you ever tried to add some earth tone acrylic paint to your sculpt-a-mold when making it to pre earth color the ground? i was wondering if you could do this with sculpt-a-mold and meaning to try it. folks do this with plaster so if you get a chip there is not a white show through.

 

just curious!

 

cheers

 

jeff

 

Jeff - I haven't but sounds interesting to try. What I sometimes do is add the WS earth tones in with the water when I mix the Sculpt-A-mold, that way it is all earth tone with no white. When I did the Tram line cliff, I was out of WS earth tone at the time and had to do it latter.

[cteno4]

 

Jeff - I haven't but sounds interesting to try. What I sometimes do is add the WS earth tones in with the water when I mix the Sculpt-A-mold, that way it is all earth tone with no white. When I did the Tram line cliff, I was out of WS earth tone at the time and had to do it latter.

 

Bernard,

 

thanks, sounds like you answered my question as i think ws earth tones are probably acrylic paints of some sorts. now you have me i have to go try this some this weekend. i like the few fiddles i did with sculpt-a-mold when i got a bag a couple of years back.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Bernard]

Jeff - one of reasons I like sculpt-a-mold is that if you are going to add rock formations, I like how it blends into the scenery and covers up any gaps with the rocks.

[cteno4]

Jeff - one of reasons I like sculpt-a-mold is that if you are going to add rock formations, I like how it blends into the scenery and covers up any gaps with the rocks.

 

bernard,

 

it seems like a very versatile product! not very expensive when half off at ac moore either! i have looked at some other do-it-yourself scenery muds with vermiculite and other components, but they seem messy and maybe will take some experimenting with.

 

have you tried to use any rock molds on your sculpt-a-mold?

 

cheers

 

jeff

[Bernard]

Jeff - Here are 2 photos of the results. The first one shows when I added the WS earth tones to the water when I mixed the sculpt-a-mold. The 2nd is when I added didn't add the earth tones in the prep but added later.

[cteno4]

Jeff - Here are 2 photos of the results. The first one shows when I added the WS earth tones to the water when I mixed the sculpt-a-mold. The 2nd is when I added didn't add the earth tones in the prep but added later.

 

cool, thanks. are the dark areas hunks of plaster cast rocks?

 

jeff

[Bernard]

Yes and I sometimes add gray paint to the rock models.