Kabuto Models; Details for your layout!

[kvp]

I would suggest to contact the current operator. They might be able to find the original blueprints used for maintenance or at least have a few decent pictures (straight side and front views).

[ToniBabelony]

Indeed. I've reached out to some of the people who were involved in the construction (difficult because of consolidation, etc) but haven't been able to get any responses thus far.

 

If you or your contacts can't come up with this information, there is always the option of creating rough drawings according to photographs. This will then specifically be for the model. If you like, I can also ask around in a group on Facebook, as I also have some contacts at SAR.

[ToniBabelony]

Kabuto Models is proud to announce it has been featured in Shapeways' Gift Guide for miniatures for this seasons' holiday shopping! https://www.shapeways.com/gift-guide/miniatures The Beer Crates are original and fun for every layout to enjoy for the holiday season and even beyond, because beer is forever!

 

Also, be quick to enjoy free shipping this week with this code: FREESHIPNOV

 

Next to that, last time at the JAM, I finally got to hold the KRDE front pieces in my hand. They look much better and detailed than I expected. A very promising look into the future!

 

  

[katoftw]

Red fences?

 

[ToniBabelony]

Do you mean you'd like to see red fences made? I'm thinking about going to work with cheaper production methods, like nylon, which is also sturdier than FUD/FXD, but looks a bit granier. It could work well with details like fences and so on!

[ToniBabelony]

Kabuto Models has been on a little hiatus, but will return after the holidays with new developments! I'm currently developing a line of convenient rolling stock to use on N-scale narrow gauge lines (6.5mm gauge) that has some space to spare inside:

 

 

This is an attempt to stuff a supercapacitor in the narrow body of a box van, to add weight and functionality. The idea is to actually have rolling stock divided in a standard frame and interchangeable bodywork, so the design above is subject to change!

[HantuBlauLOL]

Will you use electric coupler on that wagon?

[ToniBabelony]

Will you use electric coupler on that wagon?

 

I want to add wiring with small magnets. I've already found a few sources here that might work. It'll be easy to install and easy to attach and detach. I think making full-on electric couplers might be too fragile and hard to install.

[ToniBabelony]

Kabuto Models, displeased with the affordable offer on 6.5mm gauge power units, started to develop its own variant, based on a few Kato B-train power unit components:

 

 

This is a test model which I want to have printed sometime very soon, together with a few variants. The price per unit should be very low to provide a great alternative to more expensive variants, like the v.2 PowerMAX! from Searails ($94.95) and will have more flexibility, since multiple variants can be offered for roughly the same price. I plan on releasing a few basic 2-axle variants and a one or two 3-axle variations. All in 6.5mm and 9mm gauge!

 

Downside are that a bit of fiddly wiring and soldering is required, as well as adding electrical pickups (thin and flexible metal strips or wires), and adjusting parts of a Kato B-train power unit (like with a Toma Model Works 'Korokoro Unit'). Of course the performance will be not be on par with a multi-axle driven unit, but for that the price will be comparatively very very low.

 

Combined with this development, a variety of rolling stock is planned to match the power unit, or rather to have a custom power unit made to fit the body, rather than the usual other way around with this kind of thing. All of course in N-gauge (either in 1/150 or 1/160 relative to their prototypical origin).

[cteno4]

Toni,

 

Sounds exciting. Wonderful that 3D printing lets you adapt commercial components to make your own custom models then make a few bucks getting it to the niche market out there that otherwise would not get served! Makes fiddling in 6.5 potentially affordable now to at least experiment or not do it all from scratch!

 

Jeff

[ToniBabelony]

It is indeed very exciting what can be done if you look beyond what has been done and see what can be adapted to reach the lowest production and user cost possible with the absolute minimum of financial investment.

 

With this motor unit, I've already ran into trouble when I wanted to create a body for it. The first unit I'm planning to make is in the style of a Henschel & Sohn "Feuriger Elias" box-steam tram engine. This would be almost exactly be the same model as LGB has under catalogue number #2050 (OEG 102), but with the correct symmetrical axle placement, rather than the incorrect asymmetrical placement LGB has done. This locomotive was also made by Egger Bahn under cat. no. #106.

 

The height of the body is a bit too low in 1/160 for the motor to fit, so I have to negotiate two major options to continue with this project. One is to scale the model up to the Japanese 1/150 scale standard, which would break a bit with my previously set goals, or cheat a bit with the body height. This might result in a deformed look and break the feeling of the design. I'm kind of inclined to the 1/150 upscaling option, since a deformed body is worse IMHO than a model slightly out of scale. Another, third, much less desirable option, is to create an unpowered engine with a 'ghost car' with power unit to go behind the locomotive. This will however guarantee a correct scale and even a clearly visible interior, but can result in quick derailments of the unpowered locomotive...

 

Of course this will be available with both 6.5mm and 9mm gauge option, like the real thing!

 

Here are the comparisons in scale:

 

 

Left: 1/160 scale body; middle: power unit; right: 1/150 scale body. The total length of this locomotive will be a somewhat over 35mm long, with the body a bit under 30mm long.

[tossedman]

I agree that 1/150 is the better option over distorting the look of the locomotive. Cool stuff you're doing, thanks for sharing your design processes.

 

Todd

[ToniBabelony]

Thanks! Sharing helps with the development, even though I like to follow my own ways.

 

At the moment, I'm trying to convert more Kato B train power unit parts (gears from the powered bogie) to 3D models, so it might be possible to make this custom power unit even more compact.

 

I really would like to keep the 1/160 scale ratio for this locomotove, and I think that'd be possible when the motor would be horizontally placed, rather than standing vertically. This will be quite a challenge, but not impossible. For now, Ive already learned that Kato works with gears in 0.3 module, so that helps with correcting measurements.

[kvp]

How about the tomytec hm-01 as a parts source?

[ToniBabelony]

How about the tomytec hm-01 as a parts source?

Bigger motor and higher price (almost double even). So no. The Kato option also has more spare parts, like two extra wheel sets, cardan shaft and so on, which add even more value to the cheaper option over the HM-01. The HM-01 is also harder to obtain because it being a limited run (as per usual with Tomytec items), as opposed to the Kato power units, which keep on being produced because there is always demand for them (e.g. continuous B-train production).

Edited January 11, 2016 by Toni Babelony

[ToniBabelony]

I think I have the solution for the problem:

 

[ToniBabelony]

Today after a few weeks, I finally had a day on my own to work on things. It resulted in the almost finished body and chassis for this new project:

 

 

The model will be hard to convert to 9mm gauge because of its thinness, so parts of the axles will come out on the sides eventually. The front skirt also had to be sacrificed because I wanted to have the parts limited to three major parts, instead of four. A separate bottom part would have to be glued to the body or chassis (having clips would be complicated because the 3D printed material is brittle) and would also interfere with the tracks too much on inclines and/or uneven tracks.

 

Tomorrow I'll get to the detailing parts like the bell, more pipings, lamp holders and lamps. Maybe also some alternative fillings for the openings on the cab sides, like windows (wooden frame and metal frame), wooden panels (wartime solution), curtains (maybe?) and tropical styled window blinds. The latter because these types also (most probably) ran in the Dutch Indies (now Indonesia) and probably in other warm places.

[kvp]

Nice looking model! I just wonder where do you mount the couplers and how?

[ToniBabelony]

I copied the concept of Toma Model Works to go for the simple and elegant solution of connecting cars with hooks or even small staples through holes in the buffers. It's dirt cheap, reliable and to a certain point even realistic. This scale is too small for shunting for the average modeller as well, so I decided to for this option.

 

P.s. I also noticed that the chassis mounted brass strips, provided in the Kato B-train power units (intended for motorisation), are 1.4mm wide. A perfect fit for the power pickups in the motorised chassis of this model (and follow-ups). This means there is no need to purchase extra components, apart from the wire from the brass strips to the motor itself. In total, this model in raw materials (print of the chassis and body), plus the donor Kato B-train power unit, shouldn't be more than $45 or so in total. 

Edited January 13, 2016 by Toni Babelony

[cteno4]

toni,

 

love you are keeping this all uber simple and low tech!

 

one idea to make the staple idea a bit more robust might be to mount a 2x1mm magnet just under and inside where the eyes are in the cars to drop the staple in. this way it may hold the staple in down tight in the eyes regardless of bumping around, but still come out with a tug with the tweezers.

 

staples are a really tough small rod, ive used them for a lot of stuff. but you can get some pretty nice fine steel rod for straightened music wire that is uber nice. also very fine but still pretty stiff (in small bits) 0.004" wire from ngineering. i can trans-ship you any of this stuff i you want it or mail you some bits to play with from my stash of music wires (something that would mail for a dollar for once!), i got a large range of them cheap on amazon at one point.

 

http://ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm

 

very fun watching these come together, kudos on your work!

 

cheers

 

jeff

[ToniBabelony]

Thanks for the tip on the magnets Jeff! I have created a small space behind the buffer to fit a small magnet (to be glued) for optional use. The wires for connecting various rolling stock are all up to the user, but shouldn't be more than 1mm in diameter, since the hole is 1.2mm wide. Should be enough I think...

 

After some adjustments on the body and adding optional parts, like the lanterns and some windows, I placed the first test order at DMM.com!

 

For this order, I have clicked the option to go for a green print of the body, rather than a transparent FUD one. It's an option not offered by Shapeways and I'd like to see how this turns out. If it turns out as good as regular prints, I can offer to have these printed in larger quantities in one go and send them on order. Other colours available are: red, pink, blue, purple, black, orange, and yellow. Who wouldn't want a pink steam tram engine!? ;)

 

If there is a demand (and if all turns out as expected), I can also offer readily made power units, since I expect not everybody wants/can fiddle with these tiny parts.

[Nick_Burman]

Today after a few weeks, I finally had a day on my own to work on things. It resulted in the almost finished body and chassis for this new project:

 

 

The model will be hard to convert to 9mm gauge because of its thinness, so parts of the axles will come out on the sides eventually. The front skirt also had to be sacrificed because I wanted to have the parts limited to three major parts, instead of four. A separate bottom part would have to be glued to the body or chassis (having clips would be complicated because the 3D printed material is brittle) and would also interfere with the tracks too much on inclines and/or uneven tracks.

 

Tomorrow I'll get to the detailing parts like the bell, more pipings, lamp holders and lamps. Maybe also some alternative fillings for the openings on the cab sides, like windows (wooden frame and metal frame), wooden panels (wartime solution), curtains (maybe?) and tropical styled window blinds. The latter because these types also (most probably) ran in the Dutch Indies (now Indonesia) and probably in other warm places.

 

 

I was on the verge of having a fit...until I read your previous messages. I'm a fan of the "square Henschel" steam trams (had an Egger one when I was much younger) and I'm considering (eventually) creating one to run over a Minitrains chassis in HOe.

 

Cheers NB

[ToniBabelony]

I was on the verge of having a fit...until I read your previous messages. I'm a fan of the "square Henschel" steam trams (had an Egger one when I was much younger) and I'm considering (eventually) creating one to run over a Minitrains chassis in HOe.

 

This model is somewhat the same as the Egger version and will have about the same level of detailing. However, since it's about 1.84x smaller than that one, it will be hard to notice the crudeness of it all:

 

 

 

The final product which is now on the test-print track will look like this.

 

 

This is how the power unit will look like when cut in half. Very simple, effective and useful for other projects as well.

[ToniBabelony]

Today, the bodyshell in coloured acrylic polymer went into production for a test at DMM.make. I'm very curious as how it will turn out, since maybe it will reduce the need to prime and paint a little. Next to that a very small chassis base is also in production in laser sintered nylon. If all fits well, I'll offer this as an order-made chassis.

 

This weekend I also had the luck of quickly showing a few renders to one of the directors of the Japan Association of Model Railroaders (日本模型鉄道の会). His reaction was quite motivating, so I intend to continue ahead with this. I don't think I'll be attending one of the shows as a garage-production sales company this year, but 2017 might be a goal to work towards to.

[ToniBabelony]

A very short report on the parts that arrived to make the Big Henschel:

 

The shell was close to perfect (as intended at least), with some small improvements to be made, but the chassis proved to be a big problem. Because of its light weight and its imbalance, getting it to move proved to be extremely hard. It does move, but in a very terrible manner. Not even close to worthy of posting a video or picture.

 

Hence, I'm back to the drawing board to redesign its chassis and simplify its system even more. This means moving the motor to a visible area, which is a step backwards in that sense, but a step forward in improving the ride properties. The motor will be hidden by window panels (prototypical placement), and the chassis will have more space for added weight or even a potential decoder. I expect the development to be done quickly and a new printing order placed soon.