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A interesting video and article by Mainichi. I am a little surprised to see that the axles use journal bearings. Although a number of these have been scrapped, there are still 13 in use. Google translated article: https://mainichi-jp.translate.goog/articles/20240504/k00/00m/040/032000c?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp Google translated Wikipedia page on WOKIFU 100: https://ja-m-wikipedia-org.translate.goog/wiki/秩父鉄道ヲキ・ヲキフ100形貨車?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

For general information or as a reference source for those of you going on Japanese vacations, the link below should go to a Google-translated version of Japanese Wikipedia’s list of railway museums. There is an English Wikipedia page listing railway museums all over the world, but the list of Japanese museums isn’t as complete. https://ja-m-wikipedia-org.translate.goog/wiki/鉄道博物館の一覧?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp

Hi all, I got the digital tech done this week. The layout is powered by a YaMoRC multibus central unit (LocoNet, Xpressnet, etc.). The software is iTrain, running on a Raspberry PI 5. The PI is connected to a 13.3-inch touch screen. Control can be fully automatic or done manually, using either the touch screen or LocoNet/XpressNet controllers, the Roco Z21 app, etc. The set-up looks sort of professional, don't you think? 😉 Grtz! Huib

I do. I just don’t know which thread is the best to post photos of it.

I had an email back from Popondetta, they also said that non-residents cannot sell items to them. They also mentioned that they don't do duty free sales. Well, at least the exchange rate is highly favourable at the moment.

More progress... all levels sorted track-wise. Some isolation joiners and power-to-track wires done. Awaiting more track to complete the final spiral. Level 1.. still have to do the set-up tracks at the back , but it is Peco, and I have plenty of that available Level 2. Probably farmland scenery Level 3 and 4.. The Underground and Overground stations taking shape Another view of Level 4 station... platform roof not glued on yet, and some platform detail to add. Level 5, 6... views from either end. Awaiting more track so I can finish the top spiral. 🙂

The 15v adapter was ac and the bridge rectifier to take it to dc takes off 2 volts. Then the power regulator chip takes off about 3v so down to about 12v max output. I think the newer 13.5v adapter may be dc and then no bridge rectifier needed in the throttle, but then 3v taken out by the power regulator chip, so still around 12v left for max voltage. jeff

For comparison, here is an zenmen tenbō video of a JR Hokkaido Super Hakuchō run on almost the same route and direction from 2009: (Note: because this video was taken in 2009, the train continues all the way to Hachinohe. This was taken before the Tōhoku Shinkansen opened all the way to Shin-Aomori Station.)

Thanks! Your info helps me identify my DCC conversion options. I hope to ask the staff at Kato Hobby Center for more specifics when I visit them in a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have contacted them for a quote.

Thanks for your astute diagnosis of my layout and its peculiarities. I tried your suggestion (on paper, not actual track change Phase 3 no-X.layout.pdf) and it seems I will lose the ability to run two trains simultaneously on their separate loops and controls, as I will need to hand off from one controller to another during the loop at designated segments. Thus, to keep my current functionality, it appears a DCC conversion is of value.

No issue or long term issues for you. Kato only sold 15v version up until the 12v/15v combos were introduced. All mine are 15v/16v supplies. You lose some voltage through these throttles. Hence the power supplies are normally slightly higher. Half throttle is like half of 13.5 volts. 6.75 volts. Well under 12v. Relax and enjoy your trains.

Around a month or two ago I bought a second power pack to use on a double track loop uni-track layout. While usually the AC adapter comes separately, the store i bought it from sells them with an adapter they sourced themselves included in the box. While this seemed convenient at first, it is a 15V adapter not a 12V as recommended for N-Gauge. Unfortunately I have been running models with this adapter, but rarely above 50% throttle. In addition, i noticed that the output of the Kato N-gauge "12V" adapter is in fact 13.5V at 1.5a. This leaves me with two questions: 1. How likely is it that the motors in some of my models have been damaged by this? 2. Will a generic AC adapter with an output of 12V at 1.5a work without causing problems, or is there a particular reason that the Kato adapter puts out 13.5v? I'll appreciate any additional advice one might have in regards to power supply as well. -Waz

@Claude_Dreyfus Thats a nice set Im tempted to purchase it.

Well since it’s a diorama and not a functional running train in the scene you can probably regauge the car wheels, but regauging a steam loco will be a bit of a challenge grinding down the inner chassis for narrow gauge, but if non functional a bit easier as it doesn’t have to work! I would guess the n scale of the cars and loco you use would set what modeling scale you will use (1/148 British, 1/150 Japanese, or 1/160 us and Europe). Q1: What is the scale, or gauge, should I use to build this 24 in(610 mm) gauge branch line, so it will matches with the 4 ft 8+1⁄2 in (1,435 mm) gauge of the main line(N scale)? scale for the buildings would be based in the scale of your loco and cars you end up using. the gauge would be 4mm Q2: Is it really difficult to purchase, layout, and build the tracks, and parts of the above scale, or gauge in the U.S.? no commercial 4mm gauge track out there I think. You would need to hand lay ties and rails using I’m guessing like code 40 z gauge rail Q3: Is there any manufacturer sells W. G. Bagnall 0-4-4T steam locomotives in the above scale or gauge? dont know, have you done some internet searches yet? Q4: If not, then is it possible to purchase 0-4-4 chassis in the above scale or gauge, and then 3D-print (Resin? Filament?) the shell? maybe you need to do some searching. Lots of odd stuff on shapeways. Q5: For the typical choice of 24 in(610 mm) gauge flatcars of that specific complex period (just 3 years before WWI), who do you think could be the builder(British? German? or American?), and what could be the possible length? dont kniw this one jeff

Rich, ha old thoughts! If you have the links for that could you send them? Would be interested in what I was thinking at the time. One issue I’ve always had with Ttrak is the scenes smushed up against each other and worry that chaos between scenes and how that affects the viewer’s impression. More of a sub conscious are things jumbled up. These are the things folks don’t consciously register, but can effect their takeaway memories and impression. most public (non train) visitors don’t get that it’s not a set layout but a bunch of modules just popped together. We do try to be reasonable in scene transition module to module so many on first glance look like they are one scene, but as you look closer you notice things that transition abruptly or are off (like roads) between modules. ive also been frustrated all scenery has to be plunked into a few sized and shapes with track in the same place on most all modules. This is why I stepped back and rethought things with the mini onetrak and not having standard module sizes and shapes or track location. It’s been really fun to think about a scene and select the size and shaped module needed to fit that idea and where the single track should go for the scene. Also that the modules end up separated a bit and not butt up against each other. the rectangular layout design for Ttrak has re invigorated my interest in Ttrak, I had become very burned out on Ttrak and now I realize it was a number of those issues with the long skinny layouts that was causing that. anyhow like you said it’s always fun to step back and rethink things, it’s funny I find that I’ve not done that enough in my hobby when it was a really standard loop in my exhibit work! jeff

I am not sure as yet. I would like a load, but the wagons are very light so it would need to be something very pliable.

Yes they are big with cell phone repair and kits have various useful tools. The metal ones are best when it’s a tight fit as the plastic ones tend to be thicker. Guitar picks are useful to hold places open once you have opened it with the spudger. The old plastic starblecks coffee stirrers use to have a nice thin wedge end on them and you could clip off the last like 3/4” to use as a hold open wedge. They also have the thin plastic sort of credit card sized piece of plastic that can work. I have like a couple dozen different ones and just grab the one that is needed as what works best differs with trains. I try to keep my thumbnails long as they work for a good chunk of Tomytec directly. cheers jeff

lovely set. what are you going to use for rail. lengths of Styrene? I guess it depends on track curve radius.

Building it in N scale is probably where you will come undone. 00-9, HOn30, HOm, HOn, HOj, HOn3.5 etc already exist. Some of these are already well supported with track variations. 00-9 and HOn30 I think is probably best for what you wanna do. Google a few and see what works for you.

My first Japanese purchase for a little while, the new Tomix Chiki5500 rail carrier set has landed! It is a very nice set, and the detailing around the rail loaders is extremely fine. I did not get the accompanying EF65 as I already have plenty of locos and I don't really want yet another 'off region' loco unless it is very special.

"Someone's sat on it!"

From what I can gather, correctly identifying one is easier said than done. It could simply be a case of an additional 'unauthorised' batch being run by the factory. If so, then to all intents and purposes they will be no different to a 'genuine' product...the only tell-tale may well be the shop you bought it from and if so, the first you will know about it is if the warranty is not honoured. It's not as if you are going to be readily altered to its fakeness by the lack of quality control, or incorrect livery (colour shade or application)...

Could be a disgruntled factory if Dapol decided to move manufacturing elsewhere As for spotting one, “If you model looks like a Dapol model but runs without issue out of the box, it’s most likely fake” 😂

I wonder if they are even knockoffs, or just rejected models from the production run.