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Tony, Yes using a buss wire for the inner and one for the outer is how you would wire the layout for point power control, wiring the mainline for each loop to its buss and then control of the power to sidings off the loops is controlled by how the points are set. for block wiring you just have a power lead from the control panel to each of your track blocks. This power lead goes from your power drop on the track for that block back to the DPDT switch on the control panel. This should be 18g wire as you will have some running a long distance and better to have a bit beefier wire for power transmission over a distance. If you have a block with a longer piece of track you may end up doing 2 or 3 power drops from the track within the block that all connect to that block’s power feed from the control panel dpdt that feeds it power from one or the other throttles. Here is the basic wiring for each block on the layout Power drops from the track on each block [this may be more than one]. These are the 20 or 18g soldered wire drops from the underside of the tracks. These leads only need to be about 12” long. connects to one side of a 2 pole terminal block under the layout. You can just cut those 12 block terminal blocks into six 2 pole terminal blocks. other side of the terminal blocks you connect your main power feed wire [best 18g] that runs all the way back to just outside or inside of your control panel. at the control panel you can mount 12 pole terminal blocks and connect your pair of power feed wires to 2 terminals on the other side of that terminal connect a short piece of 18g wire that runs into the control panel to its DPDT switch at the DPDT switch you solder on the end of the short wire to the center poles of your DPDT switch. Throttle A and B are wired to the top and bottom pairs of terminals of the DPDT switch. This just requires wiring a bunch of short pairs of wires from one spot on the control panel that all connect together at one end and that is attached to the throttle lead. The other ends go to top pair of terminals on each DPDT switch. Then repeat with a bunch of wires from throttle B to the bottom pair of terminals on the DPDT switch Here is a diagram from track to throttle with the terminal strips in there Here is the diagram for wiring a long block track with multiple feeders here is the wiring of a couple of dpdts in the control panel.

Thanks 200 I will whip out the magnifyer and take a closer look at the cars and number then according to the included instructions. I hope the set comes with the sticky numbers to put on the bottom of the cars lol. I appreciate you replying to my question.

If you take a closer look at your model, you'll find the car number annotation on the right side of the car, next to the 4th (aft, as seen from the 1st car), just above the priority seat/wheelchair access pictograms and below the upper yellow band. Connect them all from 1 to 10, just make sure to keep the car number annotations and pictograms on the right side of all the cars (as seen from car no.1), and you got the prototypical formation, easy peasy...

Jeff have i done away with running a 18G bus wire around my layout under each track inner and outer using the block cab method ?? or am i still connecting my cab control dropper wires to the bus wire somehow ?? I hope im explaining correctly Tony

I have added a few signs to the current pack that could be attached to posts. The theme of the pack is warning signs so these are linked to construction and general works. I will work on other advertising on future downloads. It would be great to send you some samples. I have ordered 5 copies of a test sheet so I will have 4 to send out for testing and feedback. The repeating pattern does make to quite straightforward for extending. Like you say it would be challenging to actually align and glue. The idea I had to make that easier may or may not work, I won't know until the etch arrives and can be tested. It looks like this: It is a little complex but so is the prototype. The main truss (middle) folds up to give the basic shape. Then there is a top and bottom rail to add on both sides, these fold to from L beams with the brackets to attach to the legs attached. There are little slots along the L beams to locate over small tabs on the main truss to align everything correctly. The main beam takes up a lot of space on an etch however the L beams fit in much smaller spaces. I thought I could make an adjustable version with different length L beams and the main truss split into two halves. Then I could offer different length middle sections to vary the span. Essentially you would attach the outer sections of the main truss to the upper L beam using the tabs to locate it accurately. Then depending on which length L beam you select there would be a middle truss that folds up and drops into the gap. then the lower L beams can be slotted on the secure everything in place and hide the joins. They really aren't my thing as they need to be slightly over scaled to work. I think have no wires looks better however I know some people like to see the wires. There are some etched wires out there, Cityscape Studios recently used some on his Tokyo Station diorama. It is good point that there are lots of different lengths that would be needed. The advantage is they are so simple only takes a few minutes to draw them up so I would be willing to give it a go. I could design in an optional attachment point on the catenary to hold them in place. Joe

Thanks Bill I did exactly that and went to the Kato website and found the instruction manual for my set thanks.

Ahh bummer! Yes thats the issue now on getting customs forms filled out correctly by vendors. For US customs these have also changed. They also want the HTS number. One of your club member just had an order go over a little bit on $800 and owed a couple of bucks in duty but then ups did $40 or so in fees as the over $800 required full customs process and thus the big fees. Hopefully vendors will figure out how to make this as smooth as possible in the new worlds order for us customs. jeff

Check the Hobby Search listing for that info. Probably as a image. Or check the manufacturers site. Again probably as an image showing which car has the motor.

I use the dots to tell me which trains have decoders in them or not. I know what you mean when you lose a dot it drove me nuts not knowing what cars had a decoder or not. I'm going to give it a shot and see how it goes. I may take the numbering of trains cars to an extreme or not.

I’ll hopefully be there, I’m down in Nanaimo. Were you at the show in a couple of weeks back in Nanaimo? I think I met your group if so. I’d like to be more involved with people close to me

My music item order ran just over $900 and was only a Japanese product. Part of the problem was that the sender included the shipping cost which inflated the price. If/when I do something like that again, I would make sure that the shipping is charged separately. Tony

So was this a japanese made product or a chinese made product? Or was it past de minimis? Yes my fear is this all will lead to fee city for the shippers to gorge on as its usually per shipment charge not a percentage like duty. jeff

I used those tiny dots like 3/8” diameter and just found a flat bit on the car to push it onto. Ive lost a few when they sometimes rub on the foam. Ive always meant to go back and figure out a better solution of where to put numbering but I've never gotten to it and im not all that concerned if i screw up now and then or order or orientation, but i do know it pains some a lot. jeff

Thanks, Jeff I'll be numbering that set tonight.

To follow up on what @Kingmeow noted, my recent package from Plaza Japan did not have extra charges either. I was concerned as the MicroAce box clearly states Made In China. One caution with Fed Ex - I recently had some music items shipped from Japan and while the product was delivered without an issue, I did get a follow up letter from Fed Ex with duty charges. And since these companies like to pile on, about a third of the bill was for their fees. Tony

Yes Martjin, dont worry about the server, it works. Family first. jeff

Yes instructions usually give you that info on car order. I use to cheat and then just put little round stickers on the bottoms of cars to indicate order and direction [if couplers didnt do that for you.]. You can indicate direction by the orientation of the number on the sticker [ie if you hold the car upside down in front of you then you always rotate the car down on the tracks in a single direction when putting them on the tracks like rotating the roof towards you.] someone in our club put the numbers on the foam insert and was just careful to put them in and out of the case in order, but this was easy to screw up if you got distracted, but then you dint have a little sticker on the bottom of your cars. jeff

Im pretty sure there's a post in this topic but I'm not sure how to search for it How do I number train sets like the Kato Chuo-Sobu set 10-1912/13 in the correct order as the prototype. I know there are individual numbers that you can affix to the bottom of the car where can I find those. I'm venturing to guess that the instruction manual has something to do with the prototypical car order. I have not had a chance to look at it yet that's why I'm asking. Thanks

Good to hear. A fedex is on the way to me from Sakatsu. Don’t know if any of the items are made in china. Doesnt appear they are asking country of origin yet for items and thus would know or if they are applying that or not. Again just no good info on all of this from the government, shippers, customs, or usps. Good news is the de minimis looks to be the same as it used to be from japan. It will be interesting to see how things come thru japan post to usps on the other order and if slowed up at all. Jeff

What @Kingmeow said. @Martijn Meerts you need to take care of yourself and family. We can get by. Actually more time modeling than posting 😀

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/16iF5kqXME/ Good news for 009 fans!!!

For those interested in Rhaetian Railway trains offered by Kato and wanting to know more about their freight cars, the Rhaetian Railway has diagrams of its freight cars in PDF form. https://www.rhb.ch/de/buendner-gueterbahn/dokumente Scroll down and click on Güterwagen (Freight Wagons). You will find several categories. The Rhaetian Railway also offers advertising on freight rolling stock. https://www.rhb.ch/de/buendner-gueterbahn/angebote/werbung-auf-gueterwagen

Joshin Super Kids is always a treat to visit. You almost don't want to leave so you can see all that they have to offer.

Went to joshin super kids in Osaka today. It was fun to discover z scale. Some are very toy like and some are very realistic I bought one more tramway from tomytech and the engine And also one sagawa truck with some extra stuff

More about SBB. Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian and Romansh. Swiss Federal Railways rolling stock is labeled with initials of its three official names: SBB CFF FFS. The official English abbreviation is SBB. SBB - German CFF - French FFS - Italian The system is 100% electrified and the only such national system in the world. Only the Japanese travel more by train. From the Federal Office of Transport Fact Sheet: Modal split in freight transport The railways play a particularly important role in transporting freight across the Alps. In 2022, around 73% of all goods crossed the Swiss Alps by rail, and 27% by road. Rail accounts for 38% of all freight transport in Switzerland. Direct transport and clock-face timetable Switzerland‘s ‚national direct transport‘ system, in which just one ticket is needed for a journey no matter how many transport companies are involved, is unique in Europe. The system allows the use of travelcards such as the GA or Half-Fare Travelcard, which cover practically the entire Swiss public transport network. Another important element is the ‚clock-face‘ timetable, involving public transport connections at regular intervals (e.g. every 30 minutes) and good connections at transport hubs. More info on Swiss passenger trains: Swiss domestic journeys don't need to be pre-booked, trains cannot 'sell out', regular full-price tickets are available in unlimited numbers, good for any train that day. For any Swiss domestic journey you can just turn up, buy a ticket at the station and hop on the next train. Seat reservation is not even possible on most Swiss trains, you just turn up, buy a ticket, hop on and find any empty seat. However, it's possible to reserve a seat on some longer distance trains for a small fee if you really want to. The only exceptions where seat reservation is compulsory are a handful of panoramic tourist-orientated trains such as the Bernina Express, Glacier Express or Golden Pass Panoramic trains. But regular trains on the same routes, or even in some cases regular cars attached to the same train, don't need reservation, just an open ticket.