Tomytec Railway Collection - General Discussion

[katoftw]

Wheels aren't the issue.  I measured them with calipers, and they all come up within spec.

 

I did notice the center axle that hold the bogie to the chassis is very loose. If you hold the bogie and wiggle it, is has almost 0.5mm if movement front/back/left/right.  It is the same for all Otsu 600 trailers.  The Kumamoto 200 has probably half the movement the 600s have, and no wiggle while on the tracks.

 

I think it is something I'm just gonna have to live with.  Not much you can do if 6 chassis and 12 bogies all do the same thing.  Kinda reminds me of the leading single axles on early Kato steam locos that had the wobbles also.  I'm guessing my Otsu 600s wont like #4 points either.

 

I only run them on a double track oval yesterday.  If they cannot navigate #4 points, I'm kinda screwed for layout options.  Will trial asap.

Edited April 4, 2015 by katoftw

[Densha]

Ohh I hope they will! Otherwise I'm also screwed...

[katoftw]

I'll try to get on to it today.  Will let you know.

[kvp]

Yes, that's the bogie holder pin. It's an assembly error that can be fixed by placing the pin (and the bogie) back where it should be. This should be doable unless there is a molding error, which might or might not be fixable. (i had the same assembly error on one of my Tomytec 20m jnr emus, but pushing it back in place while the interior fitting is removed fixed it, then just had to reassemble everything) You should also check if the bogie was accidentally installed backwards, that was the problem with the leading bogie on my Tomix e231. Flipping it around 180 degrees and/or fixing the bogie pin should be enough. You could also check the frames from the motorized halfs, if they are better, then you can swap the underfloor equipment and use those under the trailers or swap the non leading bogies from the unused frames with the leading bogies on the trailers. (they should be identical)

 

ps: These trains should be able to handle R140-s with both rapido and TN couplers.

[katoftw]

#4 points all good.  Will upload some vids in a few minutes.  Even coming off a canted corner straight into a #4 point wasn't an issue.

[katoftw]

dodgy vids:-

 

https://youtu.be/pp6Krnfm80k

 

https://youtu.be/K4lo_2cA9dw

 

the future of model railways:- (if only for a good laugh)

 

https://youtu.be/BVFCwXKJNYo

[Densha]

Also with the trailer on front?

 

Edit: Video wasn't uploaded yet, I see it indeed also works fine with the trailer in front.

Edited April 4, 2015 by Densha

[katoftw]

Also with the trailer on front?

Yes sorry.  The trailer was the car closest to the camera.

[katoftw]

The "Small" Railway Collection, Ostu K-On and Tetsudou Musume not pictured.

 

[katoftw]

So being the slow mover I am.   I finally brought some model glue to glue in the 600s pantographs.  I also need the glue for the number plates on my Hoki 800s.  Every second plate does not hold in with friction.

 

HS also tells me that my motors and Kumamon and 6211 trains are on their way.  My Railway Collection is grown quickly in the next 2 months, expecting 2 Otsu trains and a Kumamoto Cocoro tram next month.

Edited July 18, 2015 by katoftw

[katoftw]

So the old stock of retailers of the 800yen TT-04R and TT-03R packs are just about dried up, now only 1000yen newer packs available.  can get them for 850-900 depending on whom your buy from.

 

And same with the newer motors, 3400 full retail, so you can get them for 3000/3100 in most cases discounted.

 

I'm now attempting to limit my Railway Collection trains due to them now heading towards 7000 for a completed 2 car electric train (without lighting and aren't great running trains).

Edited August 6, 2015 by katoftw

[Densha]

I too noticed the increased prices for additional parts. I thought about ordering an extra motor unit for my Keihan fleet but the increased price scared me off.

 

You are right on that Tomytec trains aren't par with standard Kato or Tomix quality, but they have lots of models that other manufacturers do not make. Just like I prefer Kato and Tomix trains over MicroAce trains, but if only MA makes that train in model you can either get the MA one or none at all. It's better than no model at all.

Edited August 7, 2015 by Densha

[JR 500系]

Yap. Motorising the train takes a fair bit of parts like motor, the pantographs, the wheels etc... And you cant get the front and rear lights nor the option to easily install interior lightings in the train...

 

I want the 205 series for the Tsurumi line, and almost got the Tomytec collection one with the intention to motorise it, but was a little put off by the total prices... I was glad I didn't cause I got a 2nd hand Kato made 205 series Tsurumi Line in Japan with working front and rear lights and option for interior lights at a much cheaper price if I would have gone the Tomytec route...

[ToniBabelony]

The price increase is indeed not nice. I'm a bit tempted to look for alternatives for powering my 3D modeling projects, as keeping the costs low is a part of my philosophy for this venue. Luckily only the Kantō Railway 2100s (for September) are at the moment interesting enough for me to purchase, so that'll be it for now... Luckily no pantos to get for those!

[Densha]

You don't necessarily need those pantos, you can easily do without them. From a distance they don't make that much difference IMHO.

 

@Toni

Tomytec uses Mashima-type motors right? These kind of motors are abundant, but there are many different shapes and sizes of them available. Tomytec probably only uses one type which makes easier to incorporate it in your 3D designs.

[ToniBabelony]

@Toni

Tomytec uses Mashima-type motors right? These kind of motors are abundant, but there are many different shapes and sizes of them available. Tomytec probably only uses one type which makes easier to incorporate it in your 3D designs.

Motors aren't the problem, but the driven bogies are. The Tomytec ones are really nice for this purpose, as they allow you to change the look with mounting parts. Maybe a look at other types and see what can be replaced is worth a try.

 

Also, you don't really need to swap out the pantos, but it sure makes a difference IMO.

[kvp]

The hard part is not the motors, but the powered bogies and all the gearing it needs. Tomytec is one of the few who sells whole frames that dont need much bashing to work with a custom project.

 

And yes, if you add motors, pantos, trailer wheels, close couplers, pickups and lights to your Tomytec trains you are near the price of a normal set. (pickups and lights are 3rd party, everything else is available from Tomix) One strange point though, the Tomytec motors are DCC friendly, so it's easy to add a wired decoder, like a digitrax one.

[katoftw]

Interesting points kvp.  I didn't even think of some of those.  Even if you only add close couplers, then you are up for another 300 yen per 2 car.  1500 yen for a pack of 6.

 

Before the March/April 2015 price rise, I brought a couple of packs of TT-04R for 774 yen.  Doesn't really matter if you buy -03R or -04R, the only difference is the colour of the coupler, and you end up doubling up on those as you get them from motors also.  So if you can find either cheaper, buy then and ignore the colours.

 

And other than the TM-20 motors for the Keihan-Otsu range, most motors can still be found for around 2400 yen discounted.  But they won't last forever.

Edited August 7, 2015 by katoftw

[railsquid]

The price increase is indeed not nice. I'm a bit tempted to look for alternatives for powering my 3D modeling projects, as keeping the costs low is a part of my philosophy for this venue. Luckily only the Kantō Railway 2100s (for September) are at the moment interesting enough for me to purchase, so that'll be it for now... Luckily no pantos to get for those!

 

Tamtam in Akihabara still had a bunch at old prices the other week, and Hobbyland Pochi often has some 2nd hand ones.

[ToniBabelony]

Tamtam in Akihabara still had a bunch at old prices the other week, and Hobbyland Pochi often has some 2nd hand ones.

It's not for me, but for other users. Keeping it affordable with easy to obtain parts, which are easy to use is the way to go for this kind of thing.

[splifdfx]

And yes, if you add motors, pantos, trailer wheels, close couplers, pickups and lights to your Tomytec trains you are near the price of a normal set. (pickups and lights are 3rd party, everything else is available from Tomix) One strange point though, the Tomytec motors are DCC friendly, so it's easy to add a wired decoder, like a digitrax one.

 

Kvp, are those 3rd party lighting kits for head and tail lights or just inside lighting ?

Could you please give us links to these products ?

[katoftw]

Kvp, are those 3rd party lighting kits for head and tail lights or just inside lighting ?

Could you please give us links to these products ?

different makers make for different tomytec models.  is there one you are specificly looking for?

 

i recently posted in the keihan-otsu thread about a company that does head and tail lights for the 600s for example.  and they do many others.

 

http://www.jnsforum.com/community/topic/9842-keihan-%C5%8Dtsu-lines-model-trains/page-3

Edited August 9, 2015 by katoftw

[railsquid]

Not sure if it's the same one you posted but I bookmarked this company offering similar: http://ism-works.shop-pro.jp/?pid=71375222

[splifdfx]

Thanks for your answers.

 

different makers make for different tomytec models.  is there one you are specificly looking for?

 

In priority for the Kumamon-painted 6000 Kumamoto Electric Railway and for my bunch of Fujikyu trains (1000 Tozandensha, 5000 and 6000 series).

[katoftw]

I just finished assembling the Kumamoto Type 6000 trains.  Both the regular and Kumamon version.  I'll take some pics in the next few days.

 

Very disappointed with Tomytec.  Bogies hit underbody parts when turned.  Underbody parts will need to be trimmed.

 

Pantograph does not sit right/flat due to the panto base hitting some roof details.  I fail to see a solution.

 

One thing I did like is that it comes with a drivers cab back wall and seat.  Extra details I haven't seen from previous Tomytec models.  Bad thing is the seat hits the motor unit frame, not allowing the shell to sit right.  For now the inner wall and seat have been removed.  So one car end has the wall and seat, and the other car has no wall and seat.  Solution is to cup/trin the seat complete off.

 

I have limited Tomytec experience.  But I haven't come across a Tomytec model requiring so much modifications to make it work.  The Ostu 600s, Kiha 125s and Kumaden Type 200s had the normal minor kit model like issues.  These 6000s are something else.

Edited August 17, 2015 by katoftw