New to Unitrack

[gpwal]

hi all, I'm just starting a layout in Unitrack n scale track. Wonder if anyone has a few hints for me. One thing I like to know, is how do you fix down Unitrack?

[katoftw]

Welcome to the forum Gordon.  Now you'll be asking yourself how he knew my name???

 

Unitrack is pretty basic stuff.  No real hints can be given.  The Kato USA site is good for learning new stuff in english.  There is alot in Japanese, so you have to be good with the pictures if not good with Japanese.

 

To fix down the track.  Glue, pins or screws work.

Edited December 2, 2014 by katoftw

[cteno4]

Gpwal,

 

There are a number of ways, but the main ones are using pva glue (white or carpenters glue), caulking, Nails, or screws.

 

The pva glue works well for many and can get taken up by soaking the joint with water. Caulking can get taken up with a putty knife. Gluing requires you position the glued track and hold it in place with some weights until the glue dries.

 

Nails work pretty well but can move around some when driving them.

 

I prefer thin k screws myself. Easy to put in and remove. Great source: http://www.trainaidsa.com

 

Jeff

[Mudkip Orange]

I don't fix it down. I changed my track plan around every few months instead.

 

Hints:

 

---Curves. Just about everything that operates on the main 1067mm network will be trouble-free on R282, and a majority will run on R249. R216 and smaller are really only for trams. Shinkansens (bullet trains) really don't look good on anything below R348, and you really want to ideally have R381 if you're going to run a lot of them.

 

---Switches. Many people have found that Kato's "#4" points need to be filed and or otherwise tinkered with work right. The "#6" (R781) points will work flawlessly right out of the package, as will the double crossover, which is fundamentally four #6's.

 

---Grades. If you do an up-and-over setup using Unitrack components, you probably want to buy both pier sets. There's a "basic" pier set that results in a steep running and then there's a "gradual" set that gives you intermediate-height pieces.

 

---Power routing. Kato's turnouts energize the siding and/or main depending on which way the points are set. In this way you can have a big yard without a lot of wiring.

 

---Electrical. On a big layout you're going to want multiple feeder tracks to combat the voltage drop in the track itself. Kato makes a 3-in-1 splitter that lets you run three feeders off a single transformer lead for just this reason.

[westfalen]

I generally use a water based contact adhesive called Sellys Kwik Grip, http://www.selleys.com.au/adhesives/household-adhesive/contact-adhesive/kwik-grip-advanced/.  It's stronger and faster than normal PVC glues but still can be taken up by water.  I use trainaidsa screws to hold down turnouts though, turnouts don't work so well if you get glue in them.  It's an Australian but there should be similar products overseas.

[katoftw]

I'm pretty sure the OP is from Australia.  I recently sold some stuff to someone with the extact same user name.

 

I actually need to go buy some of that stuff.  You recoomended it and every time I go to Bunnings I forgot it.

Edited December 4, 2014 by katoftw

[marknewton]

But it's very easy to get distracted at Bunnings! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.