Converting normal Kato tracks to tram tracks

[locidm]

Hi, total newbie here. I have a layout and am considering adding a simple section for tram. I am wondering if there is a kit out there that allows conversion of Kato tracks to tram plates, or the Kato equivalent of this:

 

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10104805

 

Or, if the above Tomix kit would work for Unitrack as well? 

 

What about crossings? For someone with almost nonexistent modeling skill, is there a kit out there to convert part of track to crossing? I'm aware Kato has a crossing track that's 124S, but that doesn't work for my layout.

[cteno4]

Iocidm,

 

Sorry but tomix and kato tracks have different geometries so the plates won't work on curves. You might be able to make them work on straight tracks, but you also have to deal with the different track spacing if you are doing double track.

 

Have you looked at unitram track? It's wider but has everything built in.

 

Don't be scared to try doing some of your own stuff, it just takes some practice to do most of this stuff. Jut start fiddling.

 

Jeff

[locidm]

Thanks Jeff for the input. I was hoping to convert a small part of my layout to tramway instead of buying new unitram tracks.

 

If I were to go the DIY route just for a simple crossing, what materials/methods should I use? I need to build two crossings each with 62 mm length. 

 

My layout is sort of unconventional since it a temporary layout (that's semi-permanent because I don't intend to take it down until the wife asks me to) not setup on a floor or on a baseboard, but on 6 ikea tables put together to form a 2000 x 1100 mm area. The great thing about it is that the wires can go to the nearest gaps between tables so there is no drilling required while still looking quite clean. The bad thing about it is that the tables, while supposedly the same height, have slight elevation difference. In any case, what I'm trying to get at, is that since there is no base board, the tracks are just lying on the table, so I am having trouble coming up with ways to setup roads and crossings to make the town seem functional with ways in and out. I also do not intend to glue anything to the table since it is supposed to be a temporary layout.

[kvp]

Tomytec has various crossing kits, that can be put on any straight and even some of the curved sections, but it's finetrack only. (both trackbed height, rail height and spacing has to match)

 

For unitrack, imho the best way is to make something yourself. The idea is to carve something that resembles a ramp or street level, like balsa wood or insulation foam, then cover it with paper or styrene and then paint it. This works for crossings and street tracks. You will need 3 pieces, one for each side that touches the rails on both sides and a small strip between the rails.

 

For something more permanent, i would assemble the whole thing to be a permanent piece by using some glue or double sided tape to fix the middle part between the rails, then glue the two side parts onto a piece of wood or styrene sheet with the tracks between them, so the whole thing can be put on the table in one piece.

 

Sadly Kato is more oriented towards the run on the floor layouts, while Tomix (and especially its Tomytec brand) is more oriented towards the diorama builders, who build permanent layouts, so they have way more accessories that work out of the box.

[cteno4]

LocIdm

 

I think the best solution would be to perhaps just use a small strip of chipboard (thin cardboard) and glue it onto the roadbed up against the track like a ramp. You could bend it so that it goes horizontal for a while before ramping down. You can also cut a small piece to go between the tracks (may take a few layers to get it up to the top of the rails) with juts enough space for the flanges to get thru. You can use rubber cement to make it easily removable.

 

For roadways construction paper works well for temporary layouts like this. Just cut out hinks of gray construction paper where the roads are to be a bit bigger and place your buildings on either side. You can also use brown or green construction paper to give other ground effects as well. This is sort of perceived scenery, where the color gives a hint to the mind's eye and memory fills in the rest. This is how we did our first club layout setting it up on the fly at shows.

 

http://japanrailmodelers.org/pages/layout/layout.1.0.html

 

If you want road markings you can print out your own roads with divider lines, markings, and even road stains using a drawing program on the computer. You can paste these onto a thin thin chipboard base.

 

Take a look at this article to think about making some little movable scenery bits as well for this kind of layout.

 

http://japanrailmodelers.org/pages/modelingjapan/tempoary.html

 

They are easy to make and it just take a bit of scenery materials and some practice. There are loads of YouTube videos to show you how to do all sorts of scenery techniques. The cool thing about doing little islands of scenery like this is it's fast and easy to practice and try out ideas quickly.

 

Some use a cloth base on top of table tops under the tracks. You can poke holes in it to run wires under it and hide them as well as sort of even things out vertically a bit.

 

If you want to make roadway around your track to create unitram type system you can do that easily on straight sections with some 3/16" foam cordon either side of the track. Then glue down some thin chipboard on top of it to go up tight against the outside of the rails. The black thin and hard photo board works well for this. Then between the tracks you can uses either cut sections of the chipboard or 1/4" x 060" styrene strip to fill between the rails. You can then top these with printed roads if you want. Doing this kind of roadway on curved sections is a real challenge though to cut the chipboard in the curved path of the track cleanly.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[locidm]

Thanks Jeff and Kvp for the great ideas and for the links. Jeff I think your modular sceneries is exactly what I need to do. :) the cloth base is a great idea. I think there is a lot of info here for me to ponder upon. Thanks again!

 

On an unrelated topic, is there any reason why my Enoden 300 and tamaden deha 200 (both modemo trams) tend to derail when going struggle through one of my Kato #4 turnout (when going the direction where the turnout splits)? I don't have such problems with other trains through the turnout.

Edited November 13, 2014 by locidm

[cteno4]

#4 unitrak points are notorious for some trains picking point on them. Some have good luck with them in their layouts but we had a lot of random issues with them on the old club layout and moved to only #6 points and troubles were greatly reduced.

 

The modemo's wheels may be a bit wide on the flange gauging and thus can pick the point (flange going outside the blade instead of inside of it). You can get a NMRA gauge and measure them or compare the flange gauge to another loco that goes thru them well.

 

You can "tune them by carefully filing a little pocket into the rails where the blade edges touch the rails so there is a smooth transition. You can use a rotary tool to do this. I'll look for the link on tuning #4 points for you.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[locidm]

Thanks again Jeff for the helpful information. I have heard about issues with #4 turnouts before but never understood the reason. Unfortunately with my tiny layout I don't have room for #6 turnouts. I'll see if I can find some info on tuning the turnout too.

[cteno4]

I've found a good PDF, I'll see if the creator will let me post it here.

 

Jeff

[locidm]

Thanks. Jeff. If that doesn't work and if you don't mind I can provide my email address through PM.