How to on the light for super view odoriko?

[mashimaro1977]

Hi, can any one tell me how to no the head, tail and interior lights for super view odoriko.

[Mudkip Orange]

First, off the light.

 

Installation is the reverse of removal.

[mashimaro1977]

Do you mean off the room lights and the train will auto light up?

[miyakoji]

mashimaro1977, what is the manufacturer and item number of your model? We can look around on the internet for instructions.

[mashimaro1977]

Kato 10-474 super view odoriko- How does the head, tail and interior lights light up?

[miyakoji]

Well I've had a look around but I can't find a copy of the instruction manual. Does it run properly? I was thinking maybe there's an on/off switch, but I haven't found anything yet.

[mashimaro1977]

Thank you. Let hope some other members know how to on the lights

[katoftw]

The model comes factory installed with directional head and tail lights as normal.  And interior lighting also.  They all should work when powered on the track as normal.

Edited October 4, 2014 by katoftw

[mashimaro1977]

Thank for the information, it help a lot

[Melandir]

I'm currently replacing all the lights in this set with leds, because I'm dcc only the bulbs were too hot to be safe for the model

 

Headlight and tail lights are already done, I'm now waiting for some 1/8 watts axial resistor to arrive for the interior lights, it looks a simple operation

[kvp]

You will need a rectifier bridge for the interior lights or you have to mount them in pairs. Otherwise the DCC voltage will be higher than the reverse brakedown voltage of the leds. A simple trick to avoid this is to install two leds back to back, so at least one will always be on and thus protect the other. Of course, you only need these if you want to drive them from the track voltage, because the decoder accessory outputs are already rectified.

[Melandir]

Thanks kvp for your advice,

 

I was just going to replace the bulb with a led and a resistor, I'll take a look for a rectifier too, but I'll have a space problem to install it

 

Kvp do you think that 12-13 volt are enough to break a led?

Edited October 19, 2014 by Melandir

[kvp]

The reverse brakedown voltage of a standard LED is usually around 5V. So yes, 12-13V will burn them out if connected in reverse which is about 50% of the time with DCC. Installing two leds back to back is easy, but they will flicker with the DCC frequency, which should be unnoticeable, but might be visible on video. Adding a single protection diode will cause the lights to visibly flicker with the DCC frequencly and dim to 50%. Adding a diode bridge is the correct solution, but then you might need some filter caps too. The good side is that once done, you will have flicker free LED lights. Powering your lights from interior lighting decoders also solves the problem, since every decoder has a diode bridge and filters. For home soldering, there are tiny smd diode bridge chips and filter caps, so you can solder together tiny bulb replacements. (the circuit: pickups-bridge chip-parallel cap-serial resistor-led)

[kvp]

Simple and better solution:

 

Edited October 19, 2014 by kvp

[Melandir]

Thanks kvp the last solution is the one I normally use in shinkansen and other trains were I create my lights, but the dip4 diode bridge I use normally are too big for this train, I need to find a smaller bridge, also the 100uF tantalium capacitors looks too big too

 

Do you have something to suggest for bridge and capacitor?

[kvp]

I don't really know what you have available, usually i just buy what my local parts shop has in stock. But if you don't really have the space, just build the two led version, that would work just like a conventional bulb. If you mount the two leds side by side, then it won't be possible to see them alternating at around 17 kHz and this is the smallest circuit you can make. I've built a few of these 3 component circuits without breadboards for Z scale wire mounted bulb replacement.

 

[Melandir]

Thanks kvp,

 

After some experminets I'm going for rectifier and capacitor scheme, and I'm satisfied with the result