Tomix Wireless Controller

[Odakyu]

I know the Tomix Wireless Controller has been brought up recently, but I thought I'd creat a separate thread for this unit in this section. If anyone owns one of these units, any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm definitely interested in this unit, but had some concerns about the compatibility of this Tomix controller with my Kato track and Kato switches. If it's as easy as simply splicing the wiring between the Tomix unit and the Kato track and switches, then that's a definite win! Thanks.

[Odakyu]

So here's a little follow-up to my original post for those interested in this controller. I now own two of these and can report that these little units operate flawlessly with my Kato track and switches. The unit comes with a base cradle, the wireless controller and the power supply - the feeder wires to the track, switches or TCS module must be purchased separately. Since the unit is equipped to operate two switches, the base cradle has two ports for controlling the switches, one port for the track, and one for a TCS module. Set up is very straightforward. The wireless controller requires 4 AA batteries (my rechargeables have lasted a couple months between charges given an average usage of about an hour per day or so). If the default radio-frequency setting is weak, you can simply change the frequency like you would a baby monitor. I've experienced zero problems with the strength of the signal. Since all my track and switches are from Kato, I simply spliced the Tomix and Kato feeder wires together, bound them with with some electrical tape, and that was it! Both the base and the wireless controller have buttons to control the two switches, which operate with virtually no lag time. If you have more than two switches, you will have to purchase a Tomix manual switch controller, which can be attached to the base unit. The wireless controller also has a separate knob for the constant lighting feature, which works great with every train set I own - even with the older Kato models which came pre-equipped with the non-LED bulb lights. The one difference I noticed, however, is that my lighted Kato sets, whether LED or not, is slightly less bright at a standstill as opposed to when it's running. The lighted Tomix sets maintain an even brightness regardless of whether they're sitting or running. The difference, however, is pretty negligible as I certainly run more Kato lighted sets than Tomix ones. Although the signal from the wireless controller to the base unit is instantaneous, it does make a loud beeping noise every time the base unit receives a signal from the controller. Fortunately, this beeping noise can be disabled by turning on the base unit while depressing both of the switch control buttons located on the base unit. What cannot be disabled, however, is the auto-off power saving feature which will stop the trains from running if the trains are left to run continuously for about 25 minutes or so without any activity. It's not a huge issue since even the slightest movement from the controller knob will send a signal to the base to prevent this from happening. Overall, it's a fantastic unit and I wish I had purchased this set earlier since it combines two of the major features I've been looking for in a controller - wireless capability and constant lighting. If I ever have a layout large enough to accommodate more than one train set per track, I might venture into DCC. But for the time being, this is a fantastic alternative.

[cteno4]

sounds great! wish it were a bit cheaper, but realize its a lot in there.

 

jeff

[warnerj01]

Quick Question.

The box shows to only use these controllers in Japan. I assume this may be due the difference in wall voltage;Japan's 100v vs US 120v. Are you using these controllers in the US or Japan? If you are in the US, any power issues?

[kvp]

Most modern Tomix adapters are 100-240V 50/60 Hz AC, so usable everywhere. I'm not sure however that the wireless radio system is certified in every country as most of them require a separate certification process and has driven Lego and Maerklin to use infrared (TV remote) wireless instead of radio due to high costs of certifying everywhere.

 

Edit:

I've found someone who actually opened one:

http://yaneuraworld.blog129.fc2.com/blog-category-2.html

from there the frequency ranges are 387MHz-464MHz, 779MHz-928MHz, which means if these frequencies are not free use or require certification or even licensing, then you can't operate the unit in that country without Tomix first obtaining these permits. Personally i know that the 900 Mhz part is actually used by the european GSM network, so there might be conflicts there. Afaik blocking emergency calls is actually a violation of some law in many countries. I'm sure some of the channels on the remote are legal, but each country has it's own regulation and allocations. Imho Tomix should have used 2.4 GHz with wifi or bluethooth but that would made the price of the unit a bit higher (like around 4 to 10 times), but getting a worldwide license is easier if you use components that are pre certified by the manufacturers for global use. (some european manufacturers did exactly this, even installing the android os with a touchscreen on their remote throttle, with the looks and price tag of a very high end smartphone and requiring a base station that costs as much and actually contains a full server computer)

 

ps: The more consumer friendly way would have been the cheap IR throttle variant for around 30 usd like the Lego Power Functions remote control family. It can be used to run L to Z scale trains and even switch turnouts with up to 8 outputs available for either as a throttle or for turnouts/signals as the Lego bipolar turnout/signal control system is accidentally compatible, plus the remotes are horizontally stackable with technic pegs. You can actually build your own control or switch stand around them, i use a wheel type controller on one channel, a horizontal lever type controller on the other on the speed controller and two vertical throwbars on the accessory controller. The only downside is that the receivers (base units) need a good line of sight to work as indirect visibility is only 5 meters, while direct visibility is around 15-20 meters.

Edited January 19, 2016 by kvp

[HantuBlauLOL]

why they dont use 2.4GHz? most RC use them and i never heard any government complaining about it..

[katoftw]

They probably do need to make them that powerful.  You wont be controlling your layout from 15 meters away.

[tossedman]

I'm looking forward to see where this goes when they introduce it for N Scale. http://bluerailtrains.com

[katoftw]

I'm looking forward to see where this goes when they introduce it for N Scale. http://bluerailtrains.com

That is good.  I'm sure I've seen something similar that work with DCC.

[tossedman]

I think that basically replaces DCC.

[kvp]

 

why they dont use 2.4GHz? most RC use them and i never heard any government complaining about it..

Yes, 2.4 GHz, aka. microwave frequency is free to use if you follow a few power level guidelines. Tomix uses different channels, usually used by cordless phones and doorbells in Japan. The reason might be that bluetooth and wifi are bidirectional, while the Tomix controller acts like a tv remote controller, with no signal going from the receiver to the controller. Still i think bluetooth would have been better, if a bit more costy. Sadly the same frequency range is used by mobile phones and tv broadcasters in other parts of the world.

 

 

http://bluerailtrains.com

That's very much the same what the SBrick provides for Lego and RC vehicles. It's compatible with DC, DCC and battery power as it can pick up any voltage from any source, pretty much like some of my Lego trains, that can run on straight DC, battery powered PF and track powered PF, which means the track power only charges the battery. In this case, the DC and DCC signal is only used to power the bluetooth receiver. Without battery backup, that's a rather large challange as the smallest power distruption could cause a dropped bluetooth signal and loss of control. This is why the track charged battery approach is the only really viable alternative. Otherwise it's good and as long as ther are no disturbances on the 2.4 Ghz range (like during an exhibition), it should work fine. (assuming it ever gets released, SBrick is already on the market btw.)

 

On the cost side, a simple and cheap DCC receiver has a diode bridge, a microcontroller, a motor driver, some accessory drivers, a voltage regulator, plus buffer caps and resistors. A bluetooth set adds a bluetooth transceiver and an antenne, plus requires a larger power storage to bridge gaps as a dropped DCC signal can be picked up on the next pulse, but a dropped bluetooth signal is harder to reestablish. A really cheap accessory only DCC decoder can do away with the motor driver and need only a single output transistor, but the most expensive component in the bluetooth decoder is the radio unit, that can't be left out.