A view noob questions.

[Richard W]

One thing I would warn against is to make sure you only buy #6 turnouts (switches). The Kato #4 units are small radius and somewhat finicky to get to work right. The Kato double crossover is also a very nice unit.

 

Although Sascha mentioned running Shinkansen, I must say that the Kato double crossover can be very finicky with steam locomotives especially the Big Boy (4-8-8-4). 

[Densha]

I don't think most people own locomotives that big though. :P

[kvp]

 

Another thing to add about DCC is regarding he use of non-DCC equipped locomotives on a DCC layout. On a DCC layout, you can usually run an analog (non-DCC) locomotive as address 3. Also, it is not a good idea to leave a DC only locomotive anywhere on the layout when running other DCC trains

The address you wanted to mention is 0, and the DC locomotive is driven by zero stretching the DCC signal, essentially adding a small balance shift in an otherwise alternating and symmetrical square wave. It's very bad for the motor, especially when run for a longer time and would immediately destory a low voltage DC motor (one that is not rated for the full DCC voltage without a proper decoder). Address 3 is the default address for off the shelf locomotive decoders.

 

A basic DCC setup is just like a DC system, but you can stop and set the speed of each train individually even while they are in the same block/loop. It gets complex the same way a DC system gets complex when you start adding blocks instead of simple loops and automation. Most people who don't want automation, don't need the complex parts of DCC. As i said the biggest problem is putting the decoder chips into the trains.

 

ps: I've made a DCC booster/station/controller that is essentially a digital pwm DC controller with a different software and the output filter capacitor removed. It can control all DCC locomotives at the same time in the address range of 1 to 15, just like a plain DC controller and it even swithes on the right headlight automatically just like in DC. (i use it for locomotive and decoder testing, mostly on a spare desk in my office) It would be possible to make it multi potmeter and have a separate potmeter for each address between 1 and 15. That would allow up to 15 trains at the same time with a single block and single track feed, each with its own single knob controller. DCC couldn't really get more simple than this... (also, the single knob version cost me around 10 usd + a 16V DC wall adapter for power)

 

Btw: If you want nicely running trains in analog (DC), you should get a PWM controller with a constant lighting feature, for example a Tomix one. It makes them run very smooth at slow speeds and the lights stay lit even when the train is stopped.

[Dave]

KVP, thanks for the correction. Also, can you recommend a really nice Tomix controller as you described?

[kvp]

KVP, thanks for the correction. Also, can you recommend a really nice Tomix controller as you described?

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10119049

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10079356

[westfalen]

Although Sascha mentioned running Shinkansen, I must say that the Kato double crossover can be very finicky with steam locomotives especially the Big Boy (4-8-8-4). 

We have had problems with the double crossovers on our T-TRAK modules if we have curves leading into them causing the lead trucks of steam locos to not straighten out and jump over the point blades.  The double crossover is a bit odd in that the turnouts are not quite the same design as either #4 or #6.  I have #4 crossovers on a couple of modules that big locos (Big Boy, Challenger, Cab Forward and Bachmann EM1) take without problems.

[railsquid]

There are some screws on the base to adjust, and the package will have a diagram on the back with details in Japanese and English.

 

This page has lots of useful info:

 

http://www.sumidacrossing.org/ModelTrains/TrackandRoadbed/KatoUnitrack/UnitrackSwitchesEtc/

[Sascha]

I am also a complete newbie and am at the same cross road as Sascha. This thread has been informative for me as well. I have limited space at home and am starting with $32 worth of four Ikea Lack coffee tables in conjunction with the two bigger ones I already have to make a 2000 x 1100 mm table. Probably not the best for my back due to low height but it's unobtrusive and acceptable to the wife.

 

I have the M1 and Kato 113-2000, and have more trains and tracks on the way. I already have around 15-16 buildings from tomix from before I started this hobby. They are mostly older japanese style buildings. I have a track plan in mind but no specific theme yet, but mostly likely it won't be a modern era theme.

 

I have been to Japan 3 times, but probably won't get to go again for a long time until my baby girl is older. I am amazed by the tremendous selection of various types of trains available, Is there a website somewhere with good summaries of trains from the various eras, region, and company?

 

Also, it would be great if someone can school me about DCC. I plan to run DC but want to know if I were to go the DCC route down the line, what it would involve.

 

Sorry Sascha, don't mean to hijack your thread. :)

Thanks for that. Learned a lot of interesting things.