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Noob questions


railsquid

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The is a Kato Kyoto model that comes with everything you need to go out of the box.  Kyoto 321 series from memory.

 

This one. I wonder how well that antenna does with bridges etc.

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Anyway got enough track and points for some basic end-to-end desktop running :)

 

Except I was kind of guessing when buying the track and don't have enough shorter pieces to position the curve where I need it (has to go round the back of a monitor). Damn, I'll need to go to the shop again :)

 

I must say I like this Kato track, maybe it won't please purists but it stays in place well even without being fixed down.

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Squid,

 

Unitrak and fine track are really great to play with. Lets you try all sorts of ideas and is made to run well on uneven surfaces like tatami mats. Yes it is not perfect in the looks, but to get that its a whole nother route! You can pretty it up quite a bit painting the rails and some reballasting and even paint ties once fixed down. Big thing though is its rugged and you can have a lot of fun planing and playing right away!

 

Enjoy!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

 

Ps probably a subconscious thing you did not get the small bits, part of you want to go back to the hobby shop!

Edited by cteno4
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That antenna should just work fine if it was taped to the roof and that would solve most problems, including hitting every weak catenary mast and taking down everyhing above the tracks not strong enough.

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That antenna should just work fine if it was taped to the roof and that would solve most problems, including hitting every weak catenary mast and taking down everyhing above the tracks not strong enough.

Curious if you could just tuck it inside the shell?  Must be a reason it is made to stick ouy though.  Those big 12V motors causing huge RF interference! :sign10:

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Curious if you could just tuck it inside the shell?

Probably, but i'm not sure if there is enough space for that. These cameras usually have the antenna come out at the top, so if the camera fills the whole car to the roof, the cable doesn't have enough space to bend. Not to mention, you can't bend it more than a certain degree before it starts to loose efficiency. The motor should be inside the next coach, so relatively far from the camera itself. But gently curving the cable back and taping it at the end to the roof to keep it from bouncing around should work.

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Ps probably a subconscious thing you did not get the small bits, part of you want to go back to the hobby shop!

 

Strange you should say that... This time I managed to pick up the wrong curves, guess I'll have to go back and see if I can exchange them. Ooh, and tomorrow is Saturday, maybe I need to pick up some computer parts in Akihabara again.

 

But seriously, I must start planning for an actual layout, it's going to involve rearranging the room a bit.

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But seriously, I must start planning for an actual layout, it's going to involve rearranging the room a bit.

 

It's starting! Soon you will want to take the all room to trains, then all the house :)

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Strange you should say that... This time I managed to pick up the wrong curves, guess I'll have to go back and see if I can exchange them. Ooh, and tomorrow is Saturday, maybe I need to pick up some computer parts in Akihabara again.

 

But seriously, I must start planning for an actual layout, it's going to involve rearranging the room a bit.

Yep sounds like the subconscious side is hooked, so you are a goner now! Same with the rest of the apartment!

 

I can see a lot of computer parts now needing to be bought in stores near train shops all over Japan...

 

Jeff

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A dumb question... is there some kind of hand-held hook-like device for manually uncoupling Arnold couplings without physically lifting one or both cars off the track?

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I've seen people use dental picks, but it seems to be more trouble than it's worth. You used to be able to get little stick-on magnets to convert Rapidos, but I have no idea if they are still made - this was back in the early 70s.

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A thin ruler, a flat headed screwdriver or a coffe stiring stick could used for that. Just slide it under the couplers, lift it slightly and done. Normal arnold rapido uncoupler tracks do the same by lifting a plate under the couplers.

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Thanks, just wondering if there was some ingenenious contraption I've been missing. Still kind of new to this whole N-gauge thing.

 

A little experimentation shows that an inverted toothpick with milled grip grooves (available en masse from your local 100 yen shop) does the trick just fine.

 

And I see there's a little vertical pipe which would indeed be suitable for an uncoupler track section, and Kato do indeed provide such a thing. Excellent.

 

(Just playing with possible layouts variations which involve some sidings/shunting opportunities on the wall side of the board...)

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