Martijn Meerts Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I've done the whole tapping and soldering the pickup wires to a brass screw on an older Kato steamer. It was one of those where the frame itself is near impossible to solder anything on, and there were no other pickups really. It worked, but it was quite a bit of work, and the taps small enough for the tiny screws are rather expensive and fragile. That was a very early install though. I've done so many of them now that I'd probably have figured out a different way of doing it rather than drilling and tapping holes :D 1 Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Sorry to revive an older topic, but I was planing to do the same install (on a 2017-5) and was wondering what gauge wire you ended up using? Also was wondering how you modified the headlight board too. I plan on using a Digitrax SDN136, as it does not require any modification or removal of the tender weights. Also, did you download any C62 sound files, or did you just use the default steam sounds? Link to comment
gavino200 Posted April 6, 2017 Author Share Posted April 6, 2017 Sorry to revive an older topic, but I was planing to do the same install (on a 2017-5) and was wondering what gauge wire you ended up using? Also was wondering how you modified the headlight board too. I plan on using a Digitrax SDN136, as it does not require any modification or removal of the tender weights. Also, did you download any C62 sound files, or did you just use the default steam sounds? I used 30 gauge wire from the Digitrax decoder wire pack. Looking back on it, it's a bit pricey. The size of the wire was no problem. Kato have actually created a path to pass the wires. I didn't see that when I tried the install the first time. I didn't use the stock light board. I just ran wires to a Led that I taped in place. Nope, I never thought of using special sound files. But I'll look into that. I still consider the C-62 to be an unfinished project. I'm planning to go back and redo it, so that I can put the stock tender weights back in. I bought a smaller Loksound decoder for the project. I'm planning to use the large Tsunami that's currently in the C-62 for my GS-4. I'm hoping to execute these open loco projects over the next few weeks while I work on the planning stage of a layout lighting project. I also just picked up an essentially new Kato D-51 with a broken drawbar for next to nothing. I plan on converting that, if I can reliably fix the drawbar. 1 Link to comment
gavino200 Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) I finally re-did this today. I didn't touch the Loco, but I completely redid the tender. I put all the stock weights, copper strips and plastic framing back in. I used a small TCS decoder. Pick-up comes from two wires soldered to the tender copper strips. It get's pickup from the loco from a brand-new drawbar. It runs very smoothly, with no derailing. This way of doing it takes minimal adjustment and is much easier than what's described above. If anyone ever finds this thread, and is thinking of doing this conversion, I stand by my loco wiring, but don't even think of doing to the tender what I described above. I understand better now how Kato locos are built and I have much more respect for them. I find that Kato engines have very little redundancy. Everything is important. PS: I wouldn't use magnet wire again. It has a lot of memory and is very difficult to work with. A better option is to buy wired LEDs. They come with extremely narrow gauge wire that is essentially magnet wire with a very thin coating. It's a good bit smaller than 30 gauge and is a lot easier than magnet wire to use. Edited November 19, 2017 by gavino200 Link to comment
Kiha66 Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Did you use a sound decoder this time? I had my replacement sound decoder fail in mine, so I'm considering just replacing it with a non sound decoder. Link to comment
gavino200 Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 No. I used a TCS Z2P. It's non sound. I was tempted to put in a Loksound select micro, but I have a few open projects that I'm trying to finish, so I just wanted to wrap this one up. I did place the Loksound in the tender with a small ESU speaker as a trial fit. It fits but there's no room for the speaker baffle. It would be a doable option, but like I said, I just want to move on. I'm running the Hokkaido right now, as I write this. It's a really great engine. I love it. Maybe all the more because I've been through so much with it. :) 1 Link to comment
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