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DCC system for beginner.


The_Doctor

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The_Doctor

I'm almost ready to start really getting into this, and what I want to do now is start looking into the control system for my trains. I've decided to go DCC even though my layout is rather small I've just never liked the way DC worked so I chose a perfect time to come back to the hobby. Today I was looking at a local supplier and saw the NCE power cab starter set, but it can only run four trains. Then after about a two second search I found the Digitrax Zephyr Xtra and it can run 20 trains or at least 20 addresses and 20 throttles, if those are trains then I guess that's good. The only thing I don't like about the digitrax is the control set, I'd really like to have a handset. So apart from wanting a handset and enough power to run at least half a dozen trains I'm really not sure what to look for.

 

So do you guys have any recommendations for a DCC beginner who has no idea what he's doing or looking at.

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The number of addresses means the number of trains that can move at the same time. The number of throttles means the number of trains that can be controlled at the same time (so this is the max number of human drivers) and the total number of trains depends on the address ranges of the station and the decoders, which can be either 99, 127, 9999 or even 10239. So if you have a dcc box that can only control a dozen trains at a given time, then you can still have 99 trains on the layout, just not all of them can be moved at the same time.

 

For electrical characteristics, you should get a DCC station that is good for japanese trains, so it should have a roughly 12V (+-2V) output, because higher voltages will damage the motors of your trains. If you want to run many trains, then it's a better idea to have a smaller current limit and brake up the layout into multiple DCC sections instead of using one high power station. A really high power (H0 or O grade 5A or more) station can damage your trains and turnouts in case of a short circuit. Also, you will have to modify each turnout to be power everywhere or feed DCC power into every section. Imho it's a good practice to separate the turnout/signal DCC bus from the track power bus, so a temporary short or overload on the track power bus wouldn't leave you without enough power to control the turnouts. Separating them also allows you to temporarly switch back the track power from DCC to DC for decoderless trains while still retaining full turnout control. For the DCC station and the throttles, you should also check if they have turnout control support, unless you want to control your turnouts the analog way.

 

In short, before you choose a DCC station you should have a clear idea what do you want to do and then look for a station that supports all functions that you need.

 

ps: from the two, the digitrax is clearly more advanced and you can connect classic analog throttles as external handsets or even wireless digital throttles, while the nce is good if you just want to get started and then you can buy a bigger station when you have more than 4 trains on your layout or you want to move two trains at the same time

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Don't worry about the control layout on the Zephry as it will come in handy. It actually works out in the long run. Their (Digitrax) control layout is good in the begining as it forces you to sit in one place and control the train. As your layout grows so will your experience and ability. At one point your layout will be large enough where it warrants being mobile. That opens up a position for a newbie to take the controls of the Zephyr as you walk around with throttle in hand. 

 

Instead of shelling out $130 to $150 for a throttle you can do this. 

 

Purchase an PC interface Digitrax PM3  $90

Old Laptop or PC - free

JMRI - Free

IPod, Iphone or iPad - Free if you already have one

iWthrottle lite - free or $9.99 complete version or Android version

 

You can do all of that for less than a throttle and still have the Zephyr to use with computer control.

 

Over all I think its the way to go. Also Digitrax seems to have a larger selection of train control periphal.

 

This is the path that I took and it was not that difficult. I controlled my layout/switches via a touch screen PC.

 

Inobu

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My grandparents have been using the Roco Multimaus for quite a while, but since there's no specified limit as for the amount of trains running at the same time, at some point there's not enough current for all those trains and the system is overloaded and shuts down. So there is a limit but it's not clear and not coded in the system.

The solution of course is installing a few more power supplies and creating power sections.

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The_Doctor

For electrical characteristics, you should get a DCC station that is good for japanese trains, so it should have a roughly 12V (+-2V) output, because higher voltages will damage the motors of your trains.

 

 

Any recommendations for brands or kits?

 

For the points I'll just be using analogue switches. Don't really want to make it more complicated by adding decoders for them as well.

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Any recommendations for brands or kits?

 

For the points I'll just be using analogue switches. Don't really want to make it more complicated by adding decoders for them as well.ON

Welcome to the DCC Life Cycle

 

It goes like this. You start to wonder about DCC and find a forum to post your question. You get a list of responces in which you reply "I'm going to keep it simple. I dont need much". Then you install the first decoder in a train. It works and with the accomplishment another and another. You get the sense of control and then want more control. You install lights in one car and then feel all cars should have lights. The hunger for control bleeds onto your layout. You want to control the switches, then the lights at the station, then the buildings. As it continues you want to run multiple trains so you split the layout into 2 lines. As you reflect back to the DC days you wonder why you did not switch to DCC earlier. When ever you see a DC layout you think what is so fun about DC you should come to the world of DCC.

As your experience and knowledge grows you see a post querying about DCC in which you respond "blah blah blah". The poster says he wants to go DCC and keep it simple. In which you reply  Welcome to the DCC Life Cycle......

 

Inobu

Edited by inobu
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When ever you see a DC layout you think what is so fun about DC you should come to the world of DCC.

Except for the on board sound decoders and special effects (bells and whistles) on locomotives, most of what is usually done with DCC can be done in DC. Directional constant lighting, sound effects, train position sensing, automation, etc. can be done in DC and many tomix products do it without any decoders in the trains. DCC just makes it simple, so anyone without electrical engineering knowledge can make pretty impressive things. Imho, the same is true for the japanese DC based equipment, especially the sound equipped cab controllers. Sometimes, they can be more fun than a basic DCC based system and in the long run, they are usually much cheaper. Personally it would double the price of my current rolling stock if i wanted to get everything DCC equipped and i still wouldn't have any sound equipped trains, that would cost even more. So imho when someone decides on using DCC, then it's worth doing it right (sound and everything) because that is what makes it better than plain DC.

Edited by kvp
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Except for the on board sound decoders and special effects (bells and whistles) on locomotives, most of what is usually done with DCC can be done in DC. Directional constant lighting, sound effects, train position sensing, automation, etc. can be done in DC and many tomix products do it without any decoders in the trains. DCC just makes it simple, so anyone without electrical engineering knowledge can make pretty impressive things. Imho, the same is true for the japanese DC based equipment, especially the sound equipped cab controllers. Sometimes, they can be more fun than a basic DCC based system and in the long run, they are usually much cheaper. Personally it would double the price of my current rolling stock if i wanted to get everything DCC equipped and i still wouldn't have any sound equipped trains, that would cost even more. So imho when someone decides on using DCC, then it's worth doing it right (sound and everything) because that is what makes it better than plain DC.

ok

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Hello The_Doctor,

 

If you intend to run the Kato brand of train then I suggest that you consider the Digitrax range of products.  This is because the proprietary Kato decoders, EM13, FL12, FR11, are actually manufactured by Digitrax.  The decoders are equipped with Transponding, which is a Digitrax feature for identifying what train is where.  You can read about that on the Digitrax webpage.

 

If such compatibility is not important to you then each major brand has its pros and cons.  Just choose one you like.

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