T-Trak Module Questions

[katoftw]

http://home.iprimus.com.au/nuggles58/t-trak.pdf

 

So I'm basicly following blindly 95% of what is in the link.  but I did come accross a few questions for other that have done module before me.

 

I finally got my act together after attending a large model train show yesterday.  The same show that got me into Model Railways again.

 

So I got my materials either brought from the hardware store or currently in the post in transit.  Except I forgot wood glue. haha

 

What length bolts to you need?

 

In M6 I can get 16mm, 20mm, 25mm, 30mm, 40mm and 50mm.  The T-nut is only 10mm away from the bottom of the module itself.  And the bolts are really only there to adjust heights by a few millimeters (1/16th for those USA readers), and considering the bolt head would be 4mm thick, then would just a 16mm length bolt be fine?  As you'd only be unscrewing it up to 5-10mm maximum?

 

p.s More questions to come.

Edited May 3, 2014 by katoftw

[katoftw]

Another question, probably more of a personal nature towards my project.

 

I'm looking at doing a complete setup in 2 stages.  Portable tables come in 1830x760mm sizing.  So I can do 4 corners, 2 single and 2 double modules for the first stage.  And the second stage by adding another table will allow the addition of 6 more double modules.

 

Question is.  Do I build and to scenery for each module in planning for those extra modules to be added.  ie- A decent size length platfor needs to go over 2+ modules.  Or do a just build the stage 1 modules and tear them up later yo combine with newer modules.  Considering I'm a newbie when it comes to scenery, I'll probably be tearing up some module tops anyway.

[enoden]

How to proceed is up to you.  Some people like to build the modules and get the track in place and the trains running then work on scenery later.  Others like to complete a module with track, scenery, and details and then move on to the next module completing each one before moving on to the next one.  There's no absolute right way to do it.  All approaches are valid.  The main thing is to enjoy it and have fun.  It's a hobby - not a race - so working along at a comfortable pace and doing it the way you find most enjoyable is the way to go.  Another way to proceed is to get the track in place and some basic scenery down and then go back and add details to the modules at a later date.  You probably will want to sketch out a track plan and work out a rough idea for scenery in advance.  That way you can decide if a module is going to have a station, town, tunnel, river with a bridge, siding or some other feature.  Then, you can have an idea of what will be on each module.  I know a man who built his end modules first and just connected them with straight track temporarily attached to 1x4 boards to get the trains running.  He completed the scenery on the end modules and then started working on the straight modules.  Just get started and have fun. 

Enoden (aka birdman)

[katoftw]

Yeah awesome.  Thats what I wanted to hear.  thanks for the feedback.  I'm probably just overthinking it.  Considering the corner/single modules are costing me $4.40AUD + glue and the double modules are costing me $6.70 + glue, then I'm happy to mess around a little with them.

 

I've got enough track to do all the corners and about 2.5 meters of doubled track. (ie 4x double modules).  And since I brought a M1 and V5 track sets first up a year ago, All my playing on the floor has been with 282 and 315 radi curves and sidings and stations.  So got a fair good idea of what I wanna do, and been using anyrail to throw ideas around also.  Also got 249 and 348 radi curves to play with also.

 

Glue, screw or tack the track to the module?

Edited May 3, 2014 by katoftw

[cteno4]

Katoftw,

 

Sign up on the Australian ttrak yahoo group. Lots of the ttrak club members (like John) are on the group and great to answer questions.

 

For a longer station you might think about doing a triple length module so you don't need to clip it in two.

 

Unless you really want to do a sectional layout and have a layout just cut up into ttrak modules, you can phase in modules later to extend a scene. Ttrak works well if the modules are not a totally seamless scene and Japanese scenery allows for some pretty wild transitions across a short distances!

 

As to starting scenery ne thing is to first just do some little tests on scraps of cardboard. Doing this lets you experiment and see how different materials and techniques work for you. Then later you can use the little bits as sort of visual swatches to help plan what you might want to use where. Write down what you did on the back side so you can repeat later! Just dive in on a module or two then and try the techniques then. Later you may decide to rip it up but best just to start on something to get going, starting out too big can sometimes stall you.

 

As you get more modules built if you don't have all your buildings yet you can also try just whacking up some shapes out of cardboard to start fiddling with ideas. There are also papercraft PDFs you can print out for free and just tape together to get ideas for structures you might want to do in scenes.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[enoden]

There is a product sold in craft stores here in the USA described as "tacky glue".  It is white in color and looks like the white glue that will bond wood such as Elmers brand.  Tacky glue is water soluble and has enough strength to hold n scale track but can be soaked with water from a spray bottle and the track lifted by sliding a putty knife under it if you need to change anything.  It does not form as strong a bond as conventional white glue.  I have used it very successfully and somewhat sparingly to hold n scale track in place.

[cteno4]

ive loved using screws to put down track. its very strong joint (especially needed because of the torque that the track can take when clipping and unclipping modules) and the fact you can set the track and screw down and done. taking the track up is super easy as well, no soaking to get the pva glue to let go. the whole jrm sectional layout has its track mounted with small screws and they have held up well with a lot of abuse over the years.

 

these are fantastic screws for putting down unitrak. 

 

http://www.trainaidsa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=55&products_id=90

 

they are usually pretty good at trying to get overseas shipping as cheap as possible as well (but postage is not cheap to Australia from the us)

 

the screws that trainaids have are quite useful for all sorts of small stuff, these kinds of small screws are very hard to find elsewhere and small brass wood screws dont work as well for track like this and are pretty soft for driving.

 

cheers

 

jeff

[katoftw]

Thanks Jeff for the cardboard idea.  Heaps of boxes to cut up in the garage.

 

Also those screws they have them on ebay also.  250 pack and about $18USD shipped to Oz which isn't bad for 7 cents each.  Was my best option, you just confirmed it for me.

 

Day off work tomorrow unless work calls me back in, so will start cutting and gluing modules tomorrow.

[westfalen]

I sometimes use the Trainaidsa screws at the end of the modules but most of my track is held down with water based Sellys Kwik Grip Advanced http://www.selleys.com.au/adhesives/household-adhesive/contact-adhesive/kwik-grip-advanced/, a club member put me onto it years ago and I haven't used antything else since. You can pick a module up by the track but a bit of water loosens it up to remove the track if you want to.

 

As for the length of the height adjusting screws, the Australia T-TRAK Guide says, "A good approach is to think of 70mm as the minimum and preferred height. The adjustable feet are required to be able to raise the top surface of the module to a maximum height of 100mm above the table top."  I always tell people follow the guide and you can't go wrong.

 

BTW, by the number of T-TRAK layouts at the Brisbane train show on the weekend, including a HO one, it is really catching on.

Edited May 5, 2014 by westfalen

[katoftw]

I've got a similar product I picked up from Bunnings called Selleys Aquahere..

 

I've never read about the 100mm above table top bit.  I ended up getting 20mm length bolts for the adjusters, which will allow up to 80mm above the table.

 

Yeah the show had quite a large on upstairs.  and the Gold Coast blokes had theirs also.  Although theirs was smaller than last years.

 

Thanks all for the advice so far.

Edited May 5, 2014 by katoftw

[westfalen]

The Kwik Grip is actually a water based contact adhesive and seems to be stronger than aquadhere which is basically a wood glue.

[katoftw]

Thanks.  I'll get some next trip to bunnings.

[katoftw]

My M6 T nuts and M6x20 bolts turned up today.  I cut some small thin sections to use as a straight edge, then realized I could find the clamps to hold it all together.  So everything stalled. Grrr!

 

100pk M6 T nuts $14.52 shipped

100pk M6x20mm bolt $14.20 shipped

6x 900mm x600mm x6mm mdf $4.50ea

3x 30mm x 30mmx 1.2m $2.97ea

3x 19mm x 19mmx 1.2m $2.13ea

 

got enough nuts and bolts for 25 modules. lol

got enough 19x19 and 30x30 for 15 modules.

need more mdf, got enough for 4x corners and 4x doubles.  cleaned out store of their current stock.  another 5 sheets ($22.5) would be good to make another 4x double and 2x single modules.

 

all under $100AUD. :)

Edited May 6, 2014 by katoftw