First attempt with N scale.

[The_Doctor]

Been a long time since I came here to update.

 

Finished drawing up the layout a few months ago, and have since bought all the flex I'll need for it. I have about 16 pieces laying around which should be just enough. I have Tomix R282 for the two outer curves since flex was too short, and I'm also using Tomix electric points. I nearly destroyed one of them through a stupid mistake of mine. I was testing a set and had them set up with a constant current that ended heating the rail causing it to melt the plastic making the whole larger and the rail fell out. At first I thought I'd burnt out the switch motor. I ended up putting a little epoxy putty over the whole and drilling a new one. Seems to work again.

 

Nearly ready to finally start laying some track. I have my three base board modules built and wired for 12volt. Need to wire them for accessories, but I haven't figured out how to power them yet. I've seen people talk about PC/Laptop power supplies, but surely you can get something a little more elegant (and safer) then that?

 

Accessories wouldn't require any more than 5volts would they?

 

One final thing I think I should ask. If I'm using analogue switches for my points, is it safe to hook them up to the main 12volt DCC line?

 

 

I'll see if I can get some photos and put them up some time to show you guys what I've been talking about with the modules.

[inobu]

Doc,

 

I have been trying out figure out a way to put this gently without discouraging you but I think it is better to

ask a question.

 

Why did your track melt and what was the cause?

 

 

Inobu

[kvp]

 

One final thing I think I should ask. If I'm using analogue switches for my points, is it safe to hook them up to the main 12volt DCC line?

No, since DCC is not Direct Current and won't work with pulsed DC turnout coils. Also, you must not connect constant DC to your turnout coils, because they will overheat and burn out. They should be driven with brief pulses of DC only and brief means just a few msec of 12V DC. Please do not use analog switches or pushbuttons directly to drive your points. Also, do not use the DCC signal for the points, it's the wrong type of signal and the wrong voltage (most DCC signals are higher than 12V). Either buy DCC turnout decoders made specifically for single coil pulsed DC turnout motors (for kato and tomix) or create a separate 12V DC bus just for your turnouts and use either official turnout controls or a capacitor discharge circuit that could supply the required brief pulse. (the most simple form of CD circuit is a 2200 uF capacitor wired in series with the coil and that can be driven with constant 12V DC power: spdt switch (12V, gnd) - capacitor - turnout coil - ground)

[kvp]

Didn't test it irl, but i think this should work in your case:

(could someone test it?)

[E6系]

Hello,

 

Please read: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm

 

In the meantime, I'll call the fire department.  ;)

[The_Doctor]

Probably safer if I just do this properly and hook my turnouts up to DCC using decoders.

 

Suggestions on what decoders to pick up would be great. I saw mention here of using a Digitrax DS64, but that thing is insanely expensive. It allegedly controls up to four turnouts though so that's a plus, or a minus if you have just over four damn it. This thing is also rather large, but I think it might just fit inside.

 

The Digitrax DS51K1 was also mentioned, but quickly forgotten, in the same thread.

 

 

Why did your track melt and what was the cause?

 

Track didn't melt. Track got hot and melted the plastic surrounding the hole that the pin/hinge was in. It got too hot because I left the 9v battery supplying power to the coil. It's all good now. I fixed it up and learned from my stupid mistake.

Edited September 11, 2014 by The_Doctor